Pictorial: Engine, Transmission, and Final Drive Oil Change

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adg44
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Pictorial: Engine, Transmission, and Final Drive Oil Change

Post by adg44 »

The joys of changing our own oils! I have to say, working on the bike is considerably easier than on my car. :)

It may not have needed the oil changes (it just had the 6k mile service done last year), but I wanted to get to know the bike, and also to know for sure what fluids it's running.

So, I went to the local auto parts store and picked up four quarts or Mobil1 15w50 Extended Performance and two quarts of Mobil1 75w90 Gear Oil. I know some of you say to use dino oil for the FD, but I checked with a BMW master technician, and he said synthetic is fine, and just to change it often. I can't see what a dino oil would be better than a synthetic oil in any regard, so I went with synthetic.

I know the first transmission fluid change isn't until 12k miles, but it has been four years since my bike was manufactured, so I wanted to change it. I also wanted to use a synthetic gear oil for the transmission, since I felt the shifting feels kind of rough, and as stated above, I like synthetic oils.

No for the fun part.... this was my first time working on a bike, so I wasn't sure what to expect. I read the maintenance manual and everything seemed straight forward.

Tools Needed:
3/8" drive ratchet
8mm hex socket
6mm hex socket
3/8" drive torque wrench
19mm box wrench or socket
74mm/14 sided oil filter cap
Funnel
A device to fill the transmission fluid (you'll see later)
Nitrile Gloves (you don't want to get in contact with used oils)

To start, put the bike on the center stand:

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I was test fitting my oil filter cap, and which drain pan I wanted to use. Be sure to put down lots of newspaper so your significant other won't yell at you for dirtying the garage. ;)

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After removing the engine oil drain plug (8mm hex), remove the oil filler cap to relieve the pressure and let the oil flow more freely. While (or after) the oil is draining, carefully loosen the oil filter. Allow the oil filter to drain while it is loose (this way you won't burn your hands). I let the oil drain for about 20 minutes. While the plugs were out, I went to work on the transmission fluid, but I'll write about that later in this post.

Once all the oils have drained, replace the washer on the drain plug and torque to 23 ft/lbs. Now replace the oil filter. Make sure this is snug, but you don't have to extremely tighten it. Coat the rubber gasket with some new oil before installing. Some people fill the filter with oil before installing, but I have never done this. The oil pump will start circulating the oil when the key goes in the on position.

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Get your funnel and fill with 3.5ish quarts of oil. Start it up, let it run for a bit, then check and add oil as necessary. Mine took 3.9 quarts, and I think it could have easily taken a full 4 quarts.

As for the transmission, it's very easy to access, but refilling is a slight challenge without the right tools.

Image

This picture pretty much says everything you need to know. Make sure you can loosen the fill plug before you remove the drain plug. Mine were on there pretty tight, so I had to use a 14" breaker bar to help get some leverage to crack the bolts.

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Gear oil smells nasty. Don't worry, I had already loosened the fill plug, I just didn't remove it.

Now with all the oil drained, it was time to refill with the new oil. This is hard to do because the fill plug is completely perpendicular to the ground, and not parallel to the ground (that would be too easy). In all seriousness, it is this way so that you can't overfill the transmission. Any extra fluid will run out of the fill plug. The solution to the problem:

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I purchased this when I changed the rear diff fluid in our 3 series (same situation like on the bike). It was about $20 and is very handy. All you do is suck up the new fluid from the bottle, and then push it into the transmission. My transmission filled about 1.2 quarts, however you will loose some fluid in the gun and also it drips when you move from the bottle to the transmission. I'd say it was just about 1.1 quarts to completely fill until fluid started trickling out of the fill plug.

Bob's BMW sent me a washer kit, and of course they included one engine drain plug washer (OK), and then only one tranny drain plug washer, and three final drive plug washers. :evil:

Image

Because of this, I had to reuse one of the washers. I changed the washer on the drain plug (since it's always covered with fluid), and simply reversed the washer on the fill plug. These aren't exactly "crush" washers in the sense that crush washers usually are "bubbled" and flaten once you tighten them. I have a feeling these washers could be reused a few times. Reversing the washer helps when reusing a washer incase it was curved or uneven after being tightened the first time.

Now onto the Final Drive. This one is even easier than the transmission, since it can be filled straight from the gear oil bottle. However, there isn't much room for a drain pan underneath, so I had to improvise.

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I cut up an old windshield wiper fluid bottle, and used the bottom as a catch can. This fit perfectly and kept the oil away from the wheel.

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This bike had Amsoil 75w90 oil put in at the 6k mile service, so I knew it was pretty fresh. I'm not a big Amsoil fan, however.

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Everything there looked fine. I took my handy dandy Stremlight Strion (it's an HID flashlight) and looked inside the FD housing, and everything looked OK as far as I could see.

The magnetic drain plug had grey goo over it, but no shavings. I used some brake cleaner and cleaned them up.

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For refilling, you need to accurately measure and look to make sure the fluid comes to the bottom of the fill plug threads. I read 250ml, so I filled up the empty Mobil1 gear oil bottle to 250ml and filled the FD.

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However, I looked with my flashlight and this was still below the fill plug threads. I added another 50ml and then it was perfect.

For my first time, everything went smoothly. Also, it took just over 1 hour to do all three fluids. I have extensive experience working on cars, so this is essentially the same, but easier!

As for any "improvements" - it's too early to tell. I only rode around fora few miles and then I had to take a friend to the airport. I will say the engine sounds better, it's not making as many weird noises as it was before. I haven't had enough time to warm up and play with the transmission to see if the shifting is any smoother (although I'm sure it will be).

I just figured I'd post this since I'm sure someone else will have the same questions I had before doing this. Thanks to everyone who helped! :smt023

- Anthony
Last edited by adg44 on Fri Oct 22, 2010 1:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Beemeridian »

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Post by mnnden »

Anthony, Well done, Den
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Post by Buckster »

Nicely done! I just did my FD and tranny last week for my first time. I'm learning to do my own service and these were easier than I thought thanks to Mike Cams illustation on this site.
Very nice...Thanks for sharing!
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Post by MikeCam »

A week or two here, then off to the FAQ - a worthy addition!
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Post by adg44 »

Glad I could give a little back to the community.

I rode about 60 miles today and the transmission felt nice and smooth. It is not making as many "clunking" tractor like noises either. ;)

Same goes for the engine, it's not making as many weird noises like it did before.

This could all be psychological though! :D
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Post by OU812 »

adg44 wrote:Glad I could give a little back to the community.

This could all be psychological though! :D
Thanks, very nice write up/pics. It works every time for me! ( psychological)
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Post by DJ Downunder »

Thanks Anthony...Nice job and great pics.. =D>

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Re: Pictorial: Engine, Transmission, and Final Drive Oil Cha

Post by darth_rockster »

adg44 wrote:Bob's BMW sent me a washer kit, and of course they included one engine drain plug washer (OK), and then only one tranny drain plug washer, and three final drive plug washers. :evil:


Because of this, I had to reuse one of the washers. I changed the washer on the drain plug (since it's always covered with fluid), and simply reversed the washer on the fill plug. These aren't exactly "crush" washers in the sense that crush washers usually are "bubbled" and flaten once you tighten them. I have a feeling these washers could be reused a few times. Reversing the washer helps when reusing a washer incase it was curved or uneven after being tightened the first time.
Excellent write up! I've had this happen to me too with my local dealership too! :roll:
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Post by bransan »

The fill and drain plugs for the tranny, are indeed parallel to the ground. Also I see Your using synthetic oils, not good in the final drive or transmission. This will cause minor oil leaks. Use the reccomended lubricants to prevent problems with warranty. Many posts here addressing this issue. Otherwise great tutorial.
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Post by adg44 »

bransan wrote:The fill and drain plugs for the tranny, are indeed parallel to the ground.
Depends on how you look at it. The actual bolt is perpendicular to the ground. Parallel would have the fill bolt be on the top of the transmission, and then you could just pour in fluid (like for the FD).
Also I see Your using synthetic oils, not good in the final drive or transmission. This will cause minor oil leaks. Use the reccomended lubricants to prevent problems with warranty. Many posts here addressing this issue.
I am sure they will be fine. Oil should not leak if the washers are replaced and the plugs are torqued properly.

- Anthony
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Post by Beemeridian »

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Post by adg44 »

Beemeridian wrote:The vagueness of branson's "leaks" is confusing. I think he was referring to the seals, which indeed have a higher propensity for discharge with synthetics, however;
the use of synthetics can not void the warranty in any way, and are, in fact, recommended.
Correct, as the master tech at a BMW dealership told me to use synthetics in both (as stated in my first post). :)
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Fluid changes

Post by rockstercliff »

Just had my 12K done on the Rockster, my BMW dealer gives the synthetic option to everyone, for a few more dollars of course. I started using synthetics in the tranny and final drive at 6K, now I use them in all 3, couldnt be happier. 8)
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Post by CycleRob »

ut-oh. The pics are gone. I just see their nagging log in banner.
Try using my favorite and more friendly http://www.photobucket.com
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Post by adg44 »

CycleRob wrote:ut-oh. The pics are gone. I just see their nagging log in banner.
Try using my favorite and more friendly http://www.photobucket.com
iServe is our integrated photo hosting solution for the forums I run (the 14th largest discussion forum in the world). Sometimes I link a lot of photos externally, however this is the first time my bandwidth has been fully utilized. I will have have my bandwidth increased shortly. Usually I only use it for linking internally which doesn't count towards external bandwidth.

Hang tight guys! :)
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Request for figures

Post by rider »

Thank you for the detailed instructions.

Unfortunately, I can not see the figures. Is there a chance you can upload them again.

Thank you
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Post by adg44 »

OK, pictures are back up. Sorry for the problems!
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Post by CycleRob »

The oil pump will start circulating the oil when the key goes in the on position.
No. That's the fuel pump you hear. The oil pump doesn't work until the engine's crankshaft turns the oil pump. Slowly filling the new filter with new oil minimizes the dry start's duration. I've heard a comercial claiming that 90% of engine wear is starting wear. I was very aware of that when my other bike sat thru like 7 weeks of a bitter cold snowed in winter . . . . long ago in my past life. The oil pretty much had drained away from where it should be and for too many seconds the engine is running with the oil lite on.

When you remove the trans and especially the FD fill plug, before and after loosening them, clean off the area with an old toothbrush and/or paper towel. You are trying to remove ALL traces of dirt BEFORE the plug is removed. This dirt, after it is ground up to a weak grinding compound by the gears, is a slow motion death sentence for gear teeth, bearings and seals. I would also NOT use the plunger pump to transfer the oil. There is too much of a chance of introducing liquid/gritty contaminates into the new oil. Even 2 or 3 grains of sand can do damage to the FD's lifespan. Stay virgin . . . . squirt it directly from the bottle's nozzle into the fill hole.
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Post by adg44 »

CycleRob wrote:When you remove the trans and especially the FD fill plug, before and after loosening them, clean off the area with an old toothbrush and/or paper towel. You are trying to remove ALL traces of dirt BEFORE the plug is removed. This dirt, after it is ground up to a weak grinding compound by the gears, is a slow motion death sentence for gear teeth, bearings and seals.
Yes, I cleaned all of the plugs before using them. I seem to have forgotten mentioning that in the write up.
I would also NOT use the plunger pump to transfer the oil. There is too much of a chance of introducing liquid/gritty contaminates into the new oil. Even 2 or 3 grains of sand can do damage to the FD's lifespan. Stay virgin . . . . squirt it directly from the bottle's nozzle into the fill hole.
I am not worried about the pump, since it has only been used with Mobil1 75w90, and when it's not in use, it's put back in it's case. I also run some fresh oil through it to try and remove any old oil and/or contaminents.

But yes, you could get a 1/4" tubing and attach it to the gear oil bottle and then funnel it into the fill hole.

Also, I did not use the pump for the FD, only the transmission. The FD fill plug is easily fillable with just the gear oil bottle nozzle.

- Anthony
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