Checked, tweaked tuneup, now dies coming off idle

[macx]

Had what kind of sounded like a little excessive rattling, so rechecked my valves even tho set them only about 2k ago. Tightened up 2 of the exhaust a very little bit, less than .001 but in the effort to get them as close to each other as possible - -

Anyway, also checked with the Twinmax, that was still spot on perfect at idle and above.

Checked the tps which I had also set 2k ago, my DVM said it was way off. Was puzzled, didn't
think it could have moved by bumping it or anything, screws seemed tight.

Well, reset it, THEN found out my DVM was fubar'd.

Got a new DVM, made sure it zero'd out in the ohm settings and read a well charged 12v battery in
the proper range. Reset the tps. Reset the Motronic, then turned out the BBS screws about 1/4 turn.

Ran good for a few days altho I started noticing a slight hesitation when coming off idle and letting out the clutch that hadn't been there before, not many miles after I reset things.

Just made another short trip, idled fine at stoplites but when I give it a normal amount of throttle while letting out the clutch, it dies. That started all of a sudden.

I had set the tps at .39. Not sure what it was before, but never had any significant problems coming off idle before, altho did notice an increasing slight hesitation or balkiness during a couple hundred miles of short trips recently which was after the last tps & Motronic setting.

Idle is about 1100, nice and smooth and steady. BBS are at 1-1/2. Starts easily and quickly.

I reviewed setting the tps and the Motronic before I did it - not something I do "every day" and
just like to be sure.

From what I read, setting in the upper part of the .370 to .400 range works better for lower altitudes.
I'm under 1,000 ft here in Swampeast Missouri.

I'll check it again and maybe back it down to .38 or so just to see what effect it has, if any.

Any thoughts, suggestions? One thing I am puzzled over is why it started doing that all of a sudden
and after it had been running pretty well for a couple hundred miles after checking all the tuning, with no further tuning changes or changes in the weather (hot, humid, and horrible!!)

Thx for any enlightenments!

EDIT: About what I figured, the tps reading was WAY low - like .110! And I KNOW I had checked it after setting it last time, incl after resetting the Motronic. I'm anal in that regard. Check and recheck. So set it back up to .387, went out and rode it awhile, doing lots of stops and starts, letting it sit and idle for 30 sec's or so when I stopped, ran like a dream. Pulled smooth off idle.

Problem solved ? - Nope. I rechecked the tps when I got back, pulled the headlite fuse again to make sure I wasn't changing the voltage. Now reads .377 - down .010 in just 15 minutes of riding. And I had tightened the screws pretty firmly and verified the .387 several times incl after setting the Motronic to make sure the reading was repeating. It was.

I suppose a tps can go south like anything else? I've been making frequent short (30 miles to & around town & back) lately, so will keep an eye on it.

And I discovered yet another problem - rear swingarm bushings. Wheel has side to side play, not top / bottom play. I'm no elite rider by any stretch, but had started noticing some squirreliness in the rear lately.

To be brutally frank about this bike - I've spent more hours maintaining and tuning it per mile ridden than any other bike I've ever owned. Not impressed at all. I bought it at about 25k and it still only has 32k on it, so shouldn't have had to do anything to it but lube and spark plugs. Have had a Honda, a Suzuki (the only new one out of the bunch), a Norton, a Triumph and even an old Harley, all carb'd, nowhere near the problems that I've had with either the tune-up or mechanical items on this one. Except for
the tall 1st gear and the big spread between 5th & 6th gears, and the "teutonic log" as I so aptly read
someone refer to the saddle, I've grown to really enjoy the bike, but am nontheless seriously considering switching. Maybe I'll have to look into selling it and looking for a newer R1200 next spring.

[boxermania]

macx

Does the engine die or are you stalling the engine?

It appears that you are doing everything correctly. The TPS is nothing more than a rheostat, it works or it doesn't, if the wiper fails. Don't be concerned about the .377 mv vs the .387 mv it is less than 3% change, well within the meter accuracy and the effects of a hot engine.

[macx]

I just about wish I WAS stalling it - but unfortunately not.

Like I wrote in the EDIT in the bottom of the post, I found that the setting seems to have changed
and was all the way down to .110 when I got home from that little ride where it started stalling out
coming off idle in 1st.

I reset it, checking and rechecking including after I reset the Motronic then of course had to take a test ride. Worked beautifully, lugged out from a standstill very smoothly without shuddering or anything. I purposely lugged it to give it the max chance to stall. Did lots of stops and restarts, letting it sit and idle for i.e. 30 seconds to simulate standing at a lite, lots of rpm changes to see if it would have any effect on the tps setting. Ride took about 20 minutes. Checked the tps when I got back and it had already dropped from .387 to .377, but of course was still running very nicely.

Then last evening took an extended ride on some twisty hilly paved county roads and "wrung it out" pretty good, lots of heavy throttle sometimes up to 7k rpm, lots of upshifting & downshifting and stops and starts, etc. Trying to give the tps a good workout

Checked the setting again this AM, had settled a little, now down to .374. Not much, but it shouldn't change at all, should it? I hope that isn't the next thing - a new tps. I don't suppose they give them away, either, and I'm unemployed. Just discovered yesterday the rear swingarm bearings are bad.
Every week it's something else.

[boxermania]

First let's insure the TPS voltage is constant, to that effect, check it after a ride, with the engine running (at idle of course) so that the alternator is operating and the voltage is constant. Like I said 10 mv to 20 mv is not going to affect anything as long as the volatge is between .355 mv to .410mv. This is the voltage range that the Motronics recognizes as the engine been at idle.

If the TPS voltage continues to vary after changing there is definitely a problem tht is confusing the Motronic.

Also there is a little brown wire (ground wire) atached to the bottom of the throttle body, make sure the conection is solid and the wire is not broken. The TB is insulated from the head and that is a ground reference. I'm not saying it has anything to do with your problem but just in case.

Good luck