Switched Accessory Connection

mad1150 · Post by **mad1150** » Fri Jan 11, 2008 12:23 pm

I want to wire in an Auto Accessory Socket under the seat that is switched off with the ignition.

Where is the best place to connect this on the fuse box or splice it in. What type of connector is needed if connecting it to the fuse box? Also, is there a preferred place to pick up Ground under the seat, besides the battery?

A picture would be cool! I remember seeing one, but can't find the right post.

FYI: It will be powering my Garmin Nuvi so it should have very low current draw.

allanj255 · Post by **allanj255** » Fri Jan 11, 2008 3:18 pm

Pick up a positive feed from your fuse box from the head light as this is ignition controled and you will not be drawing a large current the fuse will be okay, but tyou can add an inline fuse to further protect your system. you can run your negative direct to the battery

Post by **taosports** » Fri Jan 11, 2008 3:53 pm

Mark,

The easiest place to tap into switched power is the fuse box. Here's a photo of how my Centech is tapped to a switched power fuse.

Radio Shack carries these little clips that work perfectly for the job. I think they are called fuse taps but I'm not sure...it's been awhile since I bought one.

I'm assuming you are keeping the auto accessory plug (male) that runs from the Nuvi and want to install a female connector to the bike? I'm not familiar with that particular GPS but if it is like mine, you need to keep the bulky plug since it reduces the current down from 12v to whatever current it draws. You certainly don't want to cut it off for a cleaner install and fry up your new toy!

Regarding finding a good ground, if I were you, I'd just attach it to the battery. You should be able to access the negative post without having to remove the tank. All you need to do is take out the big bolt that holds the rear of the tank and just lift the tank a few inches. Pretty easy to do and it will give you enough room to attach your ground.

I installed a Centech fusebox to switched power so it's easy to access for ground and positive connections. If you plan to add more electronic farkles to your bike, you should look into the Centech or a Blue Seas box.

Post by **mcollect** » Fri Jan 11, 2008 6:38 pm

Why not use the fuse tap to activate a Bosch relay that takes feed directly from the battery with a fused lead, that you could power any device you want? They are simple and easy to use?

mad1150 · Post by **mad1150** » Fri Jan 11, 2008 6:42 pm

Yep, I have to keep the "bulky plug" as it has a 5v regulator built in. I'll try to get some fuse taps at a local radio shack. The 5V regulator "should" have a fuse but probably has a cheaper low resistance output resistor instead. I can get an inline fuse holder and a 1 Amp fuse from work. Might save me $20.00 down the road for a new car charger.

R4R&R · Post by **R4R&R** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 8:30 pm

mcollect wrote:Why not use the fuse tap to activate a Bosch relay that takes feed directly from the battery with a fused lead, that you could power any device you want? They are simple and easy to use?

I did something similar. I ran a relay setup, with power fed directly from the positive feed on the starter. The relay is activated by the taillight (not brakelight). I didn't want to cut into any of the original wiring harnesses so I soldered the relay activation wire directly to the taillight socket. Then the switched part of the relay feeds a small fuse panel.

Notice the silver relay just to the left of the fuse panel:

riceburner · Post by **riceburner** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 8:32 pm

I wired the relay for my heated waistcoat into the power for the instrument lights on the instrument cluster (near the connector under the tank). It's a low voltage, low importance circuit that's always on.