+Changing oil on R1150 RT

Topics related to the ownership, maintenance, equipping, operation, and riding of the R1150R.

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Frank R
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+Changing oil on R1150 RT

Postby Frank R » Sat Sep 20, 2008 10:17 am

:) I recently purchased a 2004 R1150 RT and I love it.
It is time for service and I would like a little help on how to chnage the oil without visiting the dealer.

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Re: +Changing oil on R1150 RT

Postby boxermania » Sat Sep 20, 2008 2:08 pm

Frank R

Congratulations on your new bike and welcome.

By the nature of your post, I take it you don't have a manual. BMW's are fairly easy to service and maintain, your first investment should be a service manual. The manual can be obtained on ebay and come on a CD and aside from the diferent models they all address the same maintenance procedures.

I would recomend using a good oil in the 10W40 or 20W50 range, the 10/40 will make the engine easier to start during lower temperatures. A lot of the owners, including myself go with Castrol GTX, but there are other choices. I don't remember exactly but you are going to need a 17mm or 19 mm closed end wrench to remove the oil drain plug.

I would stay with the BMW oil filter and buy a few from Chicago BMW as they provide a 20% discount on parts. Let me caution you that the BMW filter is recessed in the front left bottom of the engine and can only be accesed with one of those cup like attachments that grab onto the flats at the bottom of the filter. The other thing is that BMW purposedly adds another flat to the bottom of the filter so you will have to get the right adapter, they can be obtained at some of the auto parts store, or the dealer, but make sure that you get the right one.

A full oil change, with filter, requires 3.85 quarts and do the change after at least a 15 to 20 minute run on the bike as it insures that the thermostatic valve that directs the oil to the oil coolers is open and the oil will drain back into the engine.

The correct oil level is at the middle of the window, to the topp is too much and the engine will burn it off. You must see some oil in the window, as evidence of no oil in the window will potentially lead to you being unhappy and a fairly substantial engine repair bill.

Last but not least....how to check the oil level.

1) Do it after each ride
2) The engine must be hot, see above cooler comment.
3) Place the bike on the side stand for 5 or 6 minutes after shutting off, then place the bike on the center stand on a level surface
4) Let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes and then check the oil level
5) Again, insure the level is in the middle of the window.

Well that's about it, I think you have enough here to get you started.....don't be scared, there is a method to the madness.

Good luck and keep us posted.....
Last edited by boxermania on Sat Sep 20, 2008 10:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Biff's R
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Re: +Changing oil on R1150 RT

Postby Biff's R » Sat Sep 20, 2008 4:04 pm

I would avoid using Chicago BMW if you want to change the filter anytime soon. the 20% discount does not take into account freight, and the 4-8 week wait to get your order.

Other than that listen to Al.
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Re: +Changing oil on R1150 RT

Postby MattPie » Sun Sep 21, 2008 7:45 am

boxermania wrote:I don't remember exactly but you are going to need a 17mm or 19 mm closed end wrench to remove the oil drain plug.


Really? My 04 R1150R uses an allen head plug, probably 6mm or so.
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Re: +Changing oil on R1150 RT

Postby gregor » Sun Sep 21, 2008 8:07 am

Dropped into a BMW main dealer yesterday to buy a couple of BMW oil filter/washer kits. £24 for two..... must be gold plated. I've seen Champion filters at Halfords for around £5 each.
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Re: +Changing oil on R1150 RT

Postby MattPie » Sun Sep 21, 2008 10:14 am

gregor wrote:Dropped into a BMW main dealer yesterday to buy a couple of BMW oil filter/washer kits. £24 for two..... must be gold plated. I've seen Champion filters at Halfords for around £5 each.


No doubt there's a BMW mark-up involved, but I believe some people on the board have cut one up and it *is* internally different than most oil filters.
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Re: +Changing oil on R1150 RT

Postby Buckster » Sun Sep 21, 2008 10:20 am

Cyclerob dissected one and I will continue to buy OEM for my motorcycle.
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Re: +Changing oil on R1150 RT

Postby gregor » Sun Sep 21, 2008 1:42 pm

Thanks for that reassurance.They certainly feel weighty items.Made in Austria. Just need to find some decent 20W/50 and transmission oil for the service next month.
2002 black 180 degree single spark V twin

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Re: +Changing oil on R1150 RT

Postby Darius » Tue Sep 23, 2008 10:37 am

There is/was a great post somewhere on this site with step by step instructions for an r1150r. Maybe someone knows where to find it, but I can't. It is the one with pictures of Barbie dolls in the illustrations. I copied it to a Word document and made very minor edits for my personal preferences. Here's what I have, please keep in mind this is for the r1150r, not the RT:

• 3/8" socket drive 6" or longer 8mm Hex Socket (3/8")
• Oil Filter Wrench
• 1 catch basin for used oil (1 gallon capacity//5-6" high not higher)
• Garage floor oil drip tray
• 4 quarts/liters good motor oil 10W40//15W40//20W50 dino or synth
• 1 crush washer (optional)
• 1 BMW oil filter for Oilhead engines or substitute i.e. PF-53 (NOT FRAM)
• 1 clean shop towel/shirt/rag
• Paper towels
• Lots of newspaper
• 1 automotive funnel
• 1 old laundry soap container (1 gallon or more)
• 1 pair disposable gloves


1. Lay out tools and supplies in your work area - flat, level, with enough room to move around.

2. Go for a ride. 15-20 miles-get that oil hot and runny.

3. Park on side stand for 5-10 minutes. Put on center stand over newspaper (length and more than width of bike) and oil drip tray. Remove the oil fill plug (top of left cylinder head). Clean and examine the rubber 'O' ring of the cap and of the filler hole. Set aside in a safe place.

4. Position the catch basin under the drain plug (center of lowest part of engine, forward of center stand and rearward of exhaust headers.)

5. Wear gloves because everything is now HOT, lay on your back with your head toward the front of the bike along the left side. Your head is 12 o'clock and your feet are 6 o'clock. Counter-clockwise is from your knees to your right elbow (6 to 3). Remember this!

6. Remove drain plug using the 3/8" drive w/8mm socket. Position the head into the drain plug with the tail extending toward 6 o'clock. Loosen by pulling the wrench toward you from 6 to 3 o'clock (knees to right elbow). Be careful not to pull the bike over on top of you. That would be bad. It takes a good grip and a strong pull to loosen the first bit, then it gets easier. As the drain plug is about to fall out, HOT oil will drip past it. Catch the plug before it falls into the catch basin and get clear of the draining oil.

7. Examine the plug for metal shavings, crud and discolored oil. Sniff it. If anything seems wrong ask for an opinion. (Small, tiny, barely there metal glints are common. Dark oil is common. Milky oil, watery oil, multicolored oil (coke brown and black not fully mixed together, for instance) oil with solid particles and bad smelling oil bear questioning. Take a break.

8. Wipe the drain plug clean with a shop towel. Examine the crush washer. Decide if you want to reuse it or replace it. Set drain plug and crush washer aside in a safe place.

9. Remove oil filter which is located in front center of engine casing, just behind header pipes (on bottom). Using the oil filter wrench and the 3/8 drive handle, gently turn counter-clockwise to remove the filter. Same as above: head at 12; feet at 6; handle extending rearward; pull from knees to elbow - 6 to 3).

10. Oil will drip as you loosen this. Place the catch basin so it catches this drip as well as the drain plug drip. Be careful. Dispose of old filter in plastic shopping bag and tie off the ends to prevent leakage.

11. Use the shop rag to clean the inside of the oil filter housing. Make certain the rubber 'O' ring came out with the filter or fish it out now.

12. Stand up and take a break. Let the oil flow and drain. Go get a drink. Wash your hands. Take a deep breath. You are halfway finished. Hard part's over.

13. Replace new filter. Place a small amount of clean oil around the rubber 'O' ring of the new filter.

14. Place the filter into the housing well and 'find' the threaded fitting by feel. Gently turn the filter onto the fitting. Use the wrench if your fingers cannot turn it readily. Tighten hand tight, torque to 11nm/8fp

15. Replace drain plug. With old or new crush washer in place, tighten to firm, torque to 32nm/23.5fp

16. Wipe the underside of the engine, the filter housing, the header pipes and anything else that got oily.

17. Check work - are the oil filter and drain plug installed correctly?

18. Fill the oil fill with 3.75 quarts/liters. Don't sweat the exact measurement. Use about 3.75 quarts/liters. [3.75 quarts will probably do it just fine.]

19. Replace the oil fill plug and insure it is properly seated.

20. Clean up any spills.

21. Start your engine. Watch the oil pressure light go out. Listen. Look to insure no leaks, seeps, weeps, or flows are present at the drain plug, filter housing, or filler cap. Stop engine.

22. Take another break. Drink. Kick back. Straighten clutter and start putting tools away. You are mostly finished.

23. Examine oil sight glass for proper level.

24. Go for a ride.

25. Pour the old oil from the catch basin into the laundry jug.

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Re: +Changing oil on R1150 RT

Postby Frank R » Fri Sep 26, 2008 7:06 pm

thank You to all that replied. With your help I successfully changed all the fluids and serviced the bike.
thanks again

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Re: +Changing oil on R1150 RT

Postby Gabe » Mon Sep 29, 2008 3:21 pm

Darius, i have a question on your very good description on oil change. When you say counter clockwise, shouldn't it be then from 6 to 3 rather than clock wise from 6 to 9? Please let me know thank you
GABE
05 R1150R

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Re: +Changing oil on R1150 RT

Postby Darius » Mon Sep 29, 2008 5:44 pm

Hi Gabe,

I recall being a bit confused by that the 1st time I changed my oil, but followed the instructions exactly as they were written (not by me) and it worked perfectly.

D,

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Re: +Changing oil on R1150 RT

Postby macx » Wed Oct 01, 2008 2:58 am

[quote="boxermania"]Frank R

The manual can be obtained on ebay and come on a CD and aside from the diferent models they all address the same maintenance procedures.

Beware of ebay manuals - I bought one for my "new" 04 r1150r and when I began looking thru it I discovered they only covered carb's models (maybe rewritten from an older manual and made to look like it was for an r1150r??) and had nothing in them at all about any efi.

I wrote to the seller and he acted like it was a surprise (I think the only surprise was that I called him on it). He said he'd "check into it" but of course I never heard back. Another ebay rip off artist!

So if you buy a maintenance manual on CD off ebay, be sure to ask them first if it includes all the current models incl efi etc etc. Then if you buy one and it doesn't, you can stick them for lying. But if you buy one look thru it very carefully to make sure it actually IS for your model and covers everything pertinent to that model.


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