Brake pedal height adjustment?

[macx]

Along with the shifter pedal height adjustment, how about the brake pedal?

Thinking about lowering pegs, looked on my last time on the bike and saw that
would make it pretty awkward to apply the brake pedal.

Any solutions?

Thx!

[Buff]

I really need advice on this as well. I lowered the pegs and ended up with the brake lever higher than the peg. I have to lift my foot in order to use the brake. There's no such thing as a gentle brake on or brake off. As a consequence I use the hand lever exclusively. I fear that one of these days I going to need to perform an emergency stop and will not have the muscle memory to use the foot brake.

I hope we get some great answers to your question!

[macx]

I took another look at that footpeg lowering kit and they show it with the bracket that holds the pegs, suggesting they provide a modified bracket that also lowers the brake pedal mounting position and therefore the pedal itself, but what you're saying suggests that isn't the case?

Actually, they show the mounting brackets for both sides, but maybe that's just for illustration purposes? If they're not including modified design brackets, they ought to make that clear in their advert!

[Coffeebean]

I took another look at that footpeg lowering kit and they show it with the bracket that holds the pegs, suggesting they provide a modified bracket that also lowers the brake pedal mounting position and therefore the pedal itself, but what you're saying suggests that isn't the case?

Actually, they show the mounting brackets for both sides, but maybe that's just for illustration purposes? If they're not including modified design brackets, they ought to make that clear in their advert!

I actually had this issue occur this past weekend!

I ordered the "Footpeg Lowering Kit for BMW R1150R by Suburban Machinery" from A&S BMW...

I received a tiny little box and inside were 2 little brackets for lowering both the left and right footpegs...I was immediately skeptical and went about installing them anyways..The instructions focused more on installing the extension bracket for the shifter lever than on the footpeg brackets themselves. The instructions also briefly referenced how you must back out the adjustment screw on your brake lever in order to have it as far down as physically possible. They made no reference to an included shifter extension, or a lowered brake lever...I finished the installation and went for a ride: the position was great!, the safety was gone... I scrubbed 2 shifts within 10 minutes because my toes kept hitting the side of the shifter instead of sliding over it...I had to reach up about an 1 more than usual to find the brake and when i braked, the downforce was noticeably harder...i had to relearn the basics of riding a motorcycle in order to ride my bike. This is not something that happens to me on most motorcycles....my mind kept thinking this was an accident waiting to happen just to sacrifice a nicer rider position...

I rode the bike home after 30 minutes and then sat there trying to figure out a way to lower things more and realized its just not possible without different longer downbent/extended levers...

I called A&S today and spoke with customer service describing the misleading ad for the footpeg kit and they did not object at all. He had a return label sent out immediately for my refund. Kudos to A&S, bummer to suburban machinery...I really wanted that upgrade to work....

hope this helps someone out there....

[macx]

That certainly clears up our question, but unfortunately isn't much "help"!

At least not in solving the problem.

But thanks for the info - I was really close to ordering that kit.
You make it sound as if they include an extension for the shift lever?
All I'd found on the Suburban or the A&S site was the complete modified lever.

Now to find a modified brake lever to lower the pedal similarly to the modified
shift lever!

Doesn't look like it would be particularly easy to make, either. Maybe that's why
Suburban doesn't address that issue like they do with the shift lever.

anybody?

EDIT: Just took a look at that kit picture and looked closely at the existing brake lever.
"how about" if a triangular plate were made, with one of the short edges of the triangle
horizontally aligned with the top of the brake pedal arm from the existing pedal mount
hole far enough rearward to go just to the rear of the front slot in the web of the pedal arm,
and the other short edge basically vertical downward. That lower point would have a hole
for mounting the pedal (if it can be removed from the existing pedal arm?). There would
be a hole in the upper forward corner of the plate for a fastener in the hole where the pedal originally was, and another at the upper rear corner of the plate for a fastener
going thru the rear of the front elongated slot in the pedal arm, possibly enlarged slightly.
(boy it's hard to describe something like that! wish I could attach a file with a sketch)

The plate could either be fastened to the inside of the existing pedal arm or the outside.
As the footpeg lowering bracket moves the peg outward slightly, it should work if the plate
were fastened on the outside of the existing pedal arm.

Would only have to be a flat aluminum plate of the proper dimensions with 3 holes drilled in it.
Once the dimensions are worked out, should be simple to make.

"whaddya think"? ; -)

I'm gonna copy the above to the post for that guy that is looking for things to make.

EDIT: I've drawn up a simple sketch, at least gets the idea across. maybe not the most
"elaborate" or aesthetically graceful solution, but it would work.

[email protected] if anyone would like to see it

[Coffeebean]

ahh yes...vagueness on my behalf.....
no extensions to the levers whatsoever...

just 2 metal lowering brackets...

[macx]

Was hoping (against hope I thought) that they might incl some type of extension with the lowering kit, but of course - - not.

[drsales1]

I too have installed the lowering kit from Suburban. Mater of fact they are in Cleveland area and I visited their facility. They do have a web site so I suggest you search for them.

They sell a shifter extension but do not sell a brake extension. Their suggestion on the brake is to re-adjust the pedal by moving the adjustment threads on the brake lever where it ties into the swivel. (I hope this makes sense) When the bike had 12k service done I asked the BMW mechanic if they would do this for me. They declined. They felt that it would not make safety sense to do so.

I have adjusted my braking style to compensate for the height difference. The shifter I just slide my foot under the lever. Again I have made the mental adjustment. I have planned to add the extended shifter but have not done so. $165 is needed.

However I do enjoy the different knee bend, it helps my football knees. Just a note I do have bar backs, I feel this does help.

[gregor]

Got standard footrests.I lowered my brake pedal by unscrewing the stop screw as far as it would go. Shortened the master cylinder push rod, undo locknut first, so that the brake was not held on.I rarely use the pedal but I can now get on it faster than before.

[ruddy]

Got standard footrests.I lowered my brake pedal by unscrewing the stop screw as far as it would go. Shortened the master cylinder push rod, undo locknut first, so that the brake was not held on.I rarely use the pedal but I can now get on it faster than before.

I have the lowered pegs, and I got the extended shift lever. I couldn't find anything to help with the brake pedal, so I did my own mods. Like gregor, I shortened the master cylinder push rod and and unscrewed the stop screw. If you put the lock nut above the pedal arm, you can lower it enough to do the job. Be sure to have plenty of the threaded bolt screwed in to be secure.

A side effect of lowering the pegs is moving them farther out to the sides. An extended shift level compensates for this, but having to turn your toe inwards to press on the rear brake pedal is awkward. I solved that problem by drilling and tapping a 6 mm threaded hole about 1/2" deep in the end of the pedal. I then used a 30 mm bolt with three rubber bushings to extend the brake pedal by 3/4". This is enough to use the rear brake quite easily without have to twist your foot inwards.

I've been using it this way for a few weeks now, and the bolt is quite secure and strong. It's an easy mod, and it doesn't compromise the bike in any way.

Try it--you'll like it!

[macx]

One of the first things I got for mine was the brake pedal extension

http://www.ascycles.com/detail.aspx?ID=2045

but, of course, I didn't stop to think it would force the front of my foot to an
angle outwards to keep from resting on that. Hopefully the extended footpegs
with the more outward position will bring that back into the original position
relationship. That did make it easier to "find" though on the first stab.

I'm sure your bolt mod works fine, this is just another option.

[Coffeebean]

Got standard footrests.I lowered my brake pedal by unscrewing the stop screw as far as it would go. Shortened the master cylinder push rod, undo locknut first, so that the brake was not held on.I rarely use the pedal but I can now get on it faster than before.

THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!...

one thing you have to be careful about when unscrewing and pushing your brake pedal out as far as it can go is to verify your brake light toggles on and off...

There is a small metal switch underneath which controls all of this and when doing these adjustments can be left in an "on" position...this would not indicate to anyone following that you are activating your brakes....VERY DANGEROUS....

just some food for thought....

[gregor]

The threaded stop, even when screwed right out, returns to press the brake light actuator when the pedal is released.
Think it would be dificult to stop this happening, but a valid point.

[Coffeebean]

The threaded stop, even when screwed right out, returns to press the brake light actuator when the pedal is released.
Think it would be dificult to stop this happening, but a valid point.

yeah, somehow in doing the above and shortening the master cylinder pushrod as much as possible, I was able to create that dangerous condition...it never left the garage that way though...

[jbtex]

I realize that I am resurrecting an old thread and hope that's OK. I just bought a 2004 R1150R, which is my first ABS brakes bike, so have some questions.

I also have a Honda CTX700 the has the foot and leg position forward. It's a non-ABS model, so the slow speed maneuver techniques I learned with staying a bit on the back brake to control overall speed are interesting to me. So, here are a couple of questions:

1) With ABS brakes, using that same back brake method for slow speed maneuvers seems to be counterproductive, since the ABS system applies braking power to both the front and back. However, when putting the back brakes on, does the bike vary the ratio between front and back versus braking with the handlebar lever? In other words, should I even bother applying back brakes for those maneuvers?

2) I noticed that the brake pedal is sitting rather low and I like to raise it a bit. I read through the post comments and it seems that it is possible, but I am curious whether that even makes sense, again due to the ABS applying braking power to both front and back.

Appreciate the input!

[Photoguy]

Hey there- I thought the 'integral' part was that the front and rear were only linked by the front brake lever. IOW, apply front brake and the system applies both to varying degrees of ratio. My understanding is that if applying rear brakes, it's *only* rear brake. I've always applied rear brakes to scrub some speed before applying the front as it was the way I learned to ride. I've carried that habit over to my bike with abs.

And the rear brake lever does have some adjustability- by adjusting the height adjustment bolt with locknut and the plunger rod into the master. I've lowered mine to accommodate lower foot pegs and found a fair amount of up and down range available. Be sure that the adjustment bolt continues to contact and open and close the brake light switch...I know that when I was moving mine around the bolt head somehow got under the switch tab and was lucky that I noticed before breaking the switch.

[Barista]

Photoguy is dead on. I've had the same experiences with my 2004, (including getting the adjuster-bolt head caught under the brake light switch but catching it before breaking anything). If you look closely at the linkage on the rear brake lever it should be obvious how to adjust the height. Shorten the rod length going into the plunger by loosening the lock nut and giving it a couple of turns, then adjust the bolt that stops the upward travel of the lever to stop it from coming up as high. I use the rear brake frequently during low speed turns and it doesn't seem to apply any stopping force to the front wheel. STILL getting used to the power of that front brake compared to any other bike I've ever ridden.

[Barista]

Just noticed that your post seeks to raise the pedal, not lower it. Most often these discussions revolve around lowering it, my mistake, but the same principles apply. If you have long legs like me you might want to consider lowering the footpegs and this would alieviate having to raise the brake lever. Wunderlich makes a kit to lower the pegs that comes with all the bits and pieces to adjust and extend both the shift and rear brake levers. Also comes with very good instructions. It's pricey, (probably 10% of the price of your bike), but totally worth it if you're feeling cramped, IMO. I don't think these bikes were designed for anyone over 5' 7". If you read older posts you'll see a peg lowering kit from Suburban Machinery gets mentioned a lot. It was out of stock for a while earlier this year and then just disappeared from their site. It's possible they aren't producing it anymore. As these bikes get older it becomes harder to find accessory parts.

[jbtex]

Thanks everyone for chiming in!

I think my sitting height is perfect, at least I don’t feel uncomfortable with it. It’s pushing on the rear break pedal that makes it feel it’s sitting too far down, so I’ll adjust it with the method described. Truly appreciate the info.

[towerworker]

I'll add a bit of personal experience with the ABS system on the R. When I bought my 04 used in 2007 it was my first BMW with ABS. I didn't know any better so I continued to use the brakes as I always had. First a bit of rear brake applied followed by front. It took me 20,000 miles, 2 sets of rear pads and one rear rotor to realize I needed to keep my foot off the rear pedal unless I needed to intentionally trail brake. I didn't have an understanding of how the iABS system worked till someone on this forum explained to me that the brakes were linked. Once I learned that my rear brakes started lasting. Currently 94K with 50K+ on the rear brakes (and rotor).