Wiring Diagrams?

[macx]

More specifically, the lighting part of it.

I've searched, found some things "close", but - -

Right now, need the color codes for each turn signal
and maybe a good place to tap into the circuit to install the
resistors needed when using LED bulbs.

And, while we're at it, the headlite.

Although, really, none of this should be too hard to
figure out, I guess, but I hate to go poking around
if I don't have to.

Thanks for any leads!

[omg1010]

Maybe this http://www.bmwgsclub.nl/schematics/R115 ... ematic.pdf helps. It is for the GS but there shouldn't be much difference to the R. And with due respect, resistors do not have any polarity (no + or -) ... And finding the + wire of your turnsignal really only requires a simple multimeter ...

Kind regards
Oliver

[macx]

Oliver

Thanks! I think I'd seen something similar somewhere, but thought I'd just throw it out there
in case anyone had the exact correct schematic.

I agree that it should be very close if not identical for all practical purposes.

Yup, gotcha on the resistors. That's what the directions with them said, too.
I'm much more of a "wrench" than an electronics tech, so am still somewhat on
the learning curve.

I've got a multimeter but like to have an idea of the wire I'm looking for before I start
if I can. Of course it should be pretty obvious, but sometimes there is little in the way
of uncovered connectors or whatever that one can test without poking into the wire
insulation. Basically, I like to "go in" armed with as much info as I can gather.

I've modified the efi on my car (switching to mass air from speed density) then modified
it both physically and within the computer data tables etc electronically with a TwEECer,
wide band and data logger, so have forced my 60+ year old brain to try to mold itself
around modern automotive electronics - that's quite an adventure! - but I still "tread lightly". :-)

Thanks!!

[FloridaBeakster]

Thanks! I think I'd seen something similar somewhere, but thought I'd just throw it out there
in case anyone had the exact correct schematic.

PM me with your e-mail address and I think I can help out.

[omg1010]

Macx,

replacing the original turnsignals with LED's is a no-brainer. Most probably you will have to cut the wires anyway to put the new LED's on. Then just put the 2 wires together and if they work you got it right and if not just change the polarity. You can't damage anything. And with regards to the resistors they need to be installed in parallel with the turnsignal. I have for example the Kellermann LED turnsignals and an instruction for the resistors can be found here http://www.kellermann-online.com/site/d ... tand_e.pdf (in english).

And by the way it is best to crimp any wire connections on your bike rather than soldering.

Kind regards
Oliver

[challey]

Oliver said:

. . it is best to crimp any wire connections on your bike rather than soldering.

What is the benefit of crimping, other than it is relatively easily reversable? Wouldn't a soldered connection should be more postive and secure, with less current loss?

Just askin' the question.

Charlie

[omg1010]

In most cases a crimped connection (covered with heat-shrunk tube) is more durable and much easier to achieve than a soldered connection. Soldered connections are subjedt to corrosion and secondly most people don't know how to solder correctly hence soldered connections are rarely durable ...

Just have a look at this site (http://www.powerboxer.de/Kabel-verbinde ... essen.html) and check out the pics which are self explanatory. This site is a german site providing a wealth of experience about the airheads and oilheads and is wideley referenced in our community.

Kind regards
Oliver

[macx]

Macx,

Most probably you will have to cut the wires anyway to put the new LED's on. And with regards to the resistors they need to be installed in parallel with the turnsignal. I have for example the Kellermann LED turnsignals and an instruction for the resistors can be found here http://www.kellermann-online.com/site/d ... tand_e.pdf (in english).

And by the way it is best to crimp any wire connections on your bike rather than soldering. Kind regards Oliver

Learn something every day, I sure do!

I just got LED bulbs that fit into the stock sockets, so no wire tampering, other than for the resistors.
I'm going to try to find a place as close to the flasher as I can to connect the resistors at a connection or junction,
although such a place probly doesn't exist close to the flasher but I'll look anyway. I've got the resistors and
the instructions, quite simple really. Haven't heard of those Kellermann units, will have to look them up just for
the info.

I am kind of curious as to the crimping vs soldering thing - I've always soldered and heat shrunk virtually all wiring
on my hot rods over the years with nary a problem, but have experienced longevity problems with crimped connectors
on occasion. I know that maintaining exact currents / voltages / amps, whatever, isn't nearly as critical on lighting,
even with the can-bus system, as i.e. efi connections between a tps and the ecu where a soldered connection is definitely in order, but having had a few corrosion or loosening/shorting failures with crimp connectors over the years I just solder and shrink pretty much any connector as a matter of course on anything I intend for long term or that is going to be
possibly exposed to any moisture or vibration. I'll see what kind of connections I have to make when I dig into it.
Maybe those screw together posi-locks would be a good alternative? I've used them and they seem to be quite secure.

Thanks for the info as always!

[omg1010]

When soldering a few things can go wrong whilst crimping almost nothing can go wrong. Crimp it and heat-shrink and you're always on the safe side. But if you feel like soldering it certainly is also fine. I just wanted to mention that crimping has advantages over soldering. Imagine why no car or bike manufacturer solders any connectors. Everything is just crimped ...

Kind regards
Oliver