R1150R Starting issues/Brake light flash

Topics related to the ownership, maintenance, equipping, operation, and riding of the R1150R.

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Delfiki
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Re: R1150R Starting issues/Brake light flash

Post by Delfiki »

towerworker wrote:I've never heard of a clock spinning fast upon startup. The clock does have a "fast adjust" mode but that's only activated by continuing to depress the adjust button on the back of clock housing. That is indeed strange. Possibly you've been told this already but one service you definitely need to perform is an ABS flush/service. The iABS system is very unforgiving of lack of maintenance. There are threads around the forum on doing this. Not difficult but a bit tedious. There is also a special long necked funnel that is necessary. If you can't find the one pm me as I'm pretty sure I still have mine. My ABS failed so I pulled the pump several years ago. I'll send it to you. On the Hall Effect sensor.....if it was bad it would never start at all. I think you said it would run fine once you got it started with starter fluid? If so then it would not be injectors. Since you've replaced battery have you reset the Motronic? There is a procedure outlined in the book for that.

When you pull the fuse or disconnect the battery, the ECU will "learn" the full range by itself, as you work the throttle through the full range. But the quickest way is to turn the key on, don't start the bike, twist the throttle full open and let go twice. Turn the key off for a few seconds, then start the bike like normal. The ECU will have "relearned" the full range of throttle.

I'd also check for proper operation of any safety interlock switch -- clutch and sidestand. Just to be sure. On the starter sound, pulling out or disengaging.....I don't think you have any flywheel issues judging by the sound. And the starter sounds almost fine but might could stand being removed and do some very careful cleaning. You DO NOT want to remove dust and grime by spraying something like brake cleaner spray up inside the bendix gear assembly. But you want to get to the electrical part (solenoid and internal contacts) and make sure they are clean. If you end up replacing (which I doubt is necessary) an aftermarket new starter can be bought for about $75. A new BMW starter is closer to $500. I've been running an aftermarket starter for over 2 years now. It's been fine. If you read the above paragraph a second time you will see why I had to replace my starter. There is a history of the "stick coils" failing on many of the "dual or twinspark" R1150's. The bike will sometimes run but it may only be running on the lower plug. The upper plug has it's coil integrated in the coil wire/cap. Those are not difficult to check. Do a search on the forum on "stick coil failure".

Another possible issue that I don't think anyone has yet mentioned is "too tight wire ties" around the wiring bundles as they go up to the instrument cluster. Over time the continual moving back and forth of the handlebars can possibly break or damage some of the wires within that bundle(s). Again a search on the forum will give you an idea of which ties to cut. OK....hopefully some of the above will give you a few more things to look at.

Hope some of this helps. Feel free to PM me and I'll shoot you my phone number and we can talk more on the phone. There is one more fella that I hope will chime in. CycleRob........he's the defacto BMW guru.

Wayne
One of the first to-do items on my list is to get rid of the ABS system altogether. I'm not a huge fan of the servo system, and it seems fairly straightforward to get rid of it. I came across https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop ... 5_30_HA_09 that has a cheaper bypass tube that might work for me instead of spending $100 on the BMW parts for the non-abs bike.

I haven't reset the ECU yet. However, I did have the battery off at various times. Does the ECU not reset with the battery removed? I'll have to try this when I get back to the bike.

One of my first thoughts of the bike not running was maybe a faulty sidestand switch. The thing is, when in neutral the bike will crank over. I assumed that because the motor spins, the sidestand switch is bypassed. I'll definitely pull the starter and give it a decent cleaning.

The stick coils may be an issue. I found paperwork showing that the previous owner replaced one. Being an electrical component, I'm assuming it should have been done in the full pair to avoid any faults.

This definitely gives me a lot of info and things to look through before I start having to throw money at the thing. Thanks for all your help, I'll chime in once I get something definitive or have more questions!
2004 R1150R
1985 K100
2003 Honda Shadow ACE
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towerworker
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Re: R1150R Starting issues/Brake light flash

Post by towerworker »

You do not need to spend anything to remove and bypass the ABS. I made a goof on mine and had to spend about $3 for a brake lamp relay. Took me about day and a half to remove mine. (I'm slow with a bit of a hand paralysis issue. So I drop a lot of stuff) You do a little replumbing of the brake lines but you use what you already have in place. I'll try to find a link to what I used.

And yes you should replace them as a pair (unless the other had already replaced with the newer.
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Photoguy
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Re: R1150R Starting issues/Brake light flash

Post by Photoguy »

Hey Delfiki- I don't know if this will help you out or not, but I have a pair of stick coils that came to me in a parts trade. BMW part # 12 137 715 853

Important to point out that I don't know their history but assume that they're not bad as they were kept in a parts box with other good parts. Anyway I'd be happy to send them to you for postage to try out. Might save you some aggravation in determining if your are good or bad? As in a quick switch in/out? If these work for you we can talk...if they don't you can send em back. Let me know-
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Re: R1150R Starting issues/Brake light flash

Post by towerworker »

Here's a link to the procedure I used. When I say I goofed........what I did too quickly into the removal was cut the plug off the harness that plugs into the pump. You do not have to do that as long as the brake switch part of the circuit board internal to the pump is still working. (pull handbrake and brakelamp lights--you're good) I ended up as the picture in the post shows....small $3 relay mounted. You do not need to buy any parts to reconnect the front brakes to master cylinder. Picture of that as well. When you get ready to do this PM me and I'll send you my phone # and I may still have pics of what I did.

https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthrea ... ABS-system


https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthrea ... ost5007032
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Re: R1150R Starting issues/Brake light flash

Post by swamper »

The servo brakes work very well. They take some getting use to however. I have three R1150R, 1 with and 2 without. I like the power brakes best. They also take a bit more involved maintenance but once you educate yourself about them it's just not to bad. Try them for awhile before you poo can them.
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Re: R1150R Starting issues/Brake light flash

Post by JeffEd65 »

The stick coil hack was me. The trick is to log onto Amazon.de (Germany) where you will find the new style with the metal jacket, Beru AG 0040100385 Ignition Coil. 52 euros a piece. They shipped them to me in in Ohio no problem.
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0068O ... UTF8&psc=1
I just checked and they are still there.

Missing my Roadster.

Cheers.
Delfiki
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Re: R1150R Starting issues/Brake light flash

Post by Delfiki »

Alright, so I now have a bike workshop at my disposal and can tinker at any time I feel the need to get elbow deep in fossil fuel and lube.

ABS removal is on my list, thanks everyone for the articles/pdfs on the how-tos. I'll probably tackle that next once the bike is reliably starting.

-Had the bike on a trickle charger and brought the battery up to adequate power. It cranks over fine. No weird starter sound or clock speed issues. I guess the weak battery made the starter do weird things. On a positive note, my starter sounds fine. lol

-I checked the sidestand switch and it looks fine. Wires are all together. If the bike is one (engine running) and in neutral, it stays running with the stand out. When I kick it into first, engine shuts off. Leads me to think the switch is working as intended.

-Turning the key and turning the ignition switch to the middle 'on' position causes the fuel pump to prime for a few seconds. With the engine off but power on, I put the bike in 1st gear and try to spin the rear tire by hand. I can hear it whine for a split second.

-Pulled the mototronic fuse and left it out for a good 10 minutes. Tried to start, no dice. Repeated, pulled the fuse, then tried the steps stated on here before. Turned key to 'on', opened and closed throttle twice, switched off key. Tried to start, no dice.

-Just as a precaution, I went ahead and did the stick coil hack Jeff mentioned and ordered two coils for a magical grand total of $101 bucks shipped. Figured it's cheap enough to get and easy to replace.

-I do need to look up the wiring loom issue at the neck with the tie wraps, but I saw a small bunch of cables that were exposed and had a tiny wrap on it on the left side. Nothing seemed shorted.

Anyone think maybe I have a stick coil or fuel pump issue? What are some other things I can check out before I just start replacing maintenance parts?

Thanks to everyone chiming in trying to help me with this. Ya'll are fantastic.
2004 R1150R
1985 K100
2003 Honda Shadow ACE
Delfiki
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Re: R1150R Starting issues/Brake light flash

Post by Delfiki »

Also forgot to ask...is it worth it to fork out the cash for a GS-911? Would it immediately tell me whats wrong with the bike if I had access to one?
2004 R1150R
1985 K100
2003 Honda Shadow ACE
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Re: R1150R Starting issues/Brake light flash

Post by swamper »

GS-911 will give you the codes.
02R1150R,02R1150Rabs,04R1150R :D 02R1100S,05R1100S(BCR), :shock: (2)-S1000XR :smt003
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