R1150R BMW Integral ABS 1 (iABS1) Removal

[sivaramshiv]

Some sharing of experience:

This is just me. I am scared of electronics.I am nervious of crimping and solidering...not that I cannot but by
choice I want to avoid because previously the mechanic claimed that he is GOD himself when it come to crimping.
The terminal which he worked on was 7pcs and 2 of the wires came off from the terminals. When spoken he
claimed blamed his vintage crimping tool.....never mind.

On an another occation when I soldered the terminals. every thing looked perfect...but electrons in the wire refused to
move on.....I am told it is dry soldering !..........

So when I have to get into the 5 pin socket with connector x9190 I want to avoid both crimping and soldering.
Fist I attempted to clipped some female terminals from a KAW Vulcan wiring harness. The terminal parts were factory
finish and came with insulation.So Far so good. But I was not sure of the gauges of the wires. Some wires looked thin.

This morning I went to the local retail outlet of "You do it electricals". They had both the 5 pin relayas and corresponding
moulded sockets with good quality wires.!! I am feeling grate.

The Brand is Cracking Power model AS1217 Price $2.50
Relay AS1240 $2.90

Made in China of course......I dont know the quality of the relay probably I may use a TYCO or other
reliable brand which I have for the reason that I hate getting myself under the gas tank to change the relay.
I want to consider US made/german made when it comes to relay.But this systems should work out well.

Just a sharing for brothers and sisters who hate soldering/crimping on wires when they are isolating the iABS.

[sweatmark]

OK, as promised I sketched out a new iABS1 Removal brake switch/lamp/relay connection diagram(s):





As noted in the images above, owners of R1150RT/GS/others (bikes that use the tail lamp to illuminate license plate) will probably want to connect the tail lamp wire to the Fuse 2 ignition switch power wire (gray/black) contained in the iABS1 wire harness and connected to relay pin 30.

The R1150R has an independent license plate illumination lamp incorporated into the rear structure. I chose to alternate relay power between tail lamp and brake lamp, just because the idea of relay switching was cool. You may not share my enthusiasm for engaging both the 87 and 87a pins... whatever.

Use of the 5-pin relay is only necessary if someone cannot salvage the iABS1 servo controller board to use for brake switch & lamp connections, or if you want to keep the servo modulator system intact (mine was removed in fully functional condition). Please refer to the URL in post #1 of this thread linking to a web page showing how the iABS1 electronics box can be separated from the servo modulator and then reconnected to the original iABS1 connector X9190. Retaining the X9190 connector (avoiding any iABS1 wire harness cutting) is the smart choice if your iABS1 electronics are still ok.

FWIW - I called AMP, manufacturer of that big X9190 connector, back when first planning iABS1 removal. AMP stated that the connector assembly was not available to the public, which prompted my use of wire cutters.

My poor quality Paintbrush sketch (1st image) shows a 5-pin relay with internal diode protection. The common "Bosch" automotive relay comes in various flavors, including two forms of coil field collapse back-voltage surge protection: diode and resistor. Image below shows example of each. For my bike's brake switch/lamp relay, I'm using a TYCO resistor type, only because NAPA didn't have a real TYCO relay with diode at time of my ABS-ectomy, and I wanted a name-brand relay for which I could find the mfr documentation for rated current on both the 87 and 87a circuits.

Please note also that two of the iABS1 harness wires are not connected to the relay, but instead are twisted/crimped/soldered together (choose your favorite method) in order to daisy-chain the hand and foot brake switch circuits. This series connection is key to making the NC iABS1 brake switches function properly with the relay's NC/NO output pins for brake (and tail lamp when appropriate) activation.

[sivaramshiv]

Sweatmark.......Thanks for the detailed diagram.Shiv

[sweatmark]

Updated post #1 with animated circuit diagram for iABS1 brake switches + 5-pin "Bosch" relay.

[sivaramshiv]

Hi Sweatmatk.

Thanks....your brake light diagram explained on the fist page is grate.

By the by is legal to convert the iABS to non-ABS system. Is there any restriction legally/or for insurance?
Any informations on this?

Thanks
Shiv

[goomicoo]

The Front brake light SWITCH is mounted the other way around in the circuitry on ABS bike as opposed to non-ABS. IE on the ABS bikes the switch is CLOSED (ie it MAKES a circuit) when the brakes are OFF.

Burner,

Agreed - very important difference between the ABS and non- R1150* bikes. But I think I've got this ABS-specific switch peculiarity covered... the ADV and UKGSers discussed this issue, with the few reported ABS-removals simply buying the BMW OE non-ABS front and rear brake switches. Where's the sport in that?!

Sorry to be "unsporting" but for me I like the idea of leaving the wiring alone just in case anyone else might want to re install the abs hardware. Long shot for sure but "Murphy's Law" keeps coming to mind.
Which leads to this question:
If I swap out the NC brake light switches for the non ABS version NO switches will that be the end of the electrical portion of the festivities?
Thanks

[sweatmark]

Sorry to be "unsporting" but for me I like the idea of leaving the wiring alone just in case anyone else might want to re install the abs hardware. Long shot for sure but "Murphy's Law" keeps coming to mind.
Which leads to this question:
If I swap out the NC brake light switches for the non ABS version NO switches will that be the end of the electrical portion of the festivities?
Thanks

Nothing "unsporting" about a good question.

You could replace the brake switches with the non-ABS parts (normally open switches), but which wires would you use for switch connection?

If you utilized the wiring originally connected to ABS-spec switches, then you would need to create a mating multi-pin connector to link the open-ended circuits existing in the big iABS modular connector that attaches to the servo pump. Since there is no corresponding TYCO/AMP part available (I contacted the mfr and asked), you would need to fabricate the connector yourself. Without addressing the various dead-ended circuits, you would have no means to connect the brake switch outputs to the brake lamp input.

As an alternative, you could simply run new wiring to link fused power supply to the new switches, then back to the brake lamp. No problem, but a bit kludge.

Another option would be use of brake line pressure switches, which simplifies the wire runs a bit, but requires purchase of special banjo bolts with the needed sensor end port.

[goomicoo]

Thanks for the update. I might have to take the rear off again anyway to put the old switch on because I can't get the rear hose to seal on the master. There are 2 part numbers for the rear master. We're using a banjo bolt where a hard line used to be so I wonder if that would be the difference. But you didn't have to swap yours so something else must be going on.

[sweatmark]

There are 2 part numbers for the rear master. We're using a banjo bolt where a hard line used to be so I wonder if that would be the difference. But you didn't have to swap yours so something else must be going on.

The iABS and non-ABS rear master brake cylinders differ only in piston diameter, as noted on BMW fiche. Result is slight difference in hydraulic "mechanical advantage".

There are also two distinct rear brake calipers, though both are listed as having the Evo piston diameters 26 and 28mm. Don't know what the difference might be.

I used new crush washers when installing the rear brake hose. Reused the iABS-spec rear hose after finding it fit ok. Had to buy a new rear banjo bolt, but only because I mostly stripped out the hex by using a Torx bit that I mistakenly installed on ratchet. Regardless, no leaks almost 5 years later.

[goomicoo]

I thought the non abs version might have a machined face for the crush washer but since you have had no issues it's crush washer time!
Thanks

[Bob2go]

Hi Sweatmark.
Your article on the ABS brake conversion has lifted and inspired me! Only problem, would it work on my R1200CL (2005)?
The photos look similar except for the rear brake unit, but I'm sure it can be done.
My bike started losing the ABS at only 4000 miles. Lights flashing and then total failure. (BMWs idea of 'residual brakes' is a dangerous joke). I would have started looking for a conversion then, but the damn thing would come back and act perfectly for maybe 500 miles, until it all started again. I borrowed a GS911 which told me there was too much pressure in the system, and a faulty brake light, which wasn't true, but I tinkered with the pedal/switch/sensor for a while with no results. A full dealer diagnostic says the servo is gone, but the damn thing even started working for a while on the way back from the dealer! It mocks me! Anyway, I can't live with the uncertainty, it probably would literally kill me!
Whaddya think??
Bob2go

[sweatmark]

Hi Sweatmark.
Your article on the ABS brake conversion has lifted and inspired me! Only problem, would it work on my R1200CL (2005)?
The photos look similar except for the rear brake unit, but I'm sure it can be done.
My bike started losing the ABS at only 4000 miles. Lights flashing and then total failure. (BMWs idea of 'residual brakes' is a dangerous joke)...whad'ya think??
Bob2go

We had a '98 R1200C with the older ABS2 system, which worked flawlessly. I love the Chromeheads.

My impression of the later R1150's iABS "residual braking" was similar to yours: ridiculous, unacceptable. My wife and I just watched "Long Way Round" for the 100th time, including the episode in Mongolia when the subframe repair welding on Sergio's R1150GS caused a breach of the rear wheel ABS sensor, and the bike's iABS defaulted to "residual braking", removing the bike from adventure service. Ridiculous, unacceptable.

Ok, back to your question. First, there's a new option for iABS1 system repairs: Module Master, as referenced over on the ADV board.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=792722

Perhaps that's your best first choice, since there's no question that antilock brakes are an excellent safety asset. When they're working correctly.

As for iABS removal, the plumbing for the R1200C will be different, but should be do-able. Just guessing, based a quick look at the parts fiche.

And based on the fiche, the CL appears to be similar to the Rockster, R1100S, et al., in that speedometer input signal is sourced from the iABS module for bikes so equipped. The non-ABS bikes have a dedicated speed sensor (pulse generator ) triggered by a tone wheel installed within the final drive. Part numbers differ between CL sensor and Rockster equivalent, so it's unknown if the CL's speedometer is looking for a +/- VR magnetic sensor output like the Rockster. (I bought a non-ABS Rockster sensor to confirm its characteristics.)

Regardless, if you decide to un-ABS your CL, then drop me a line for an idea to replace your missing speedometer signal.

[Bob2go]

Thanks Sweatmark. I checked out that repair site. Problem is, I'm over in Southern Ireland, so sending anything to the states for repair is already going to cost a lot, before any work even commences, and the crooks over here charge over 400 bucks just to bleed the system! Got to question the wisdom of spending so much on a bike that age. I had a good look yesterday, and comparing your pics, it seems reasonably possible to change. Front is just two banjos, so the Y piece should solve that. Rear is a little more difficult. but at least everything is visible. I kind of hoped I could leave as much of the old electrics in as possible. Would the speedo still work, or am I being hopelessly optimistic??? I intend keeping the bike for a long time, so re-sale value doesn't worry me. Thanks again

[hank]

Hi Bob. If you do decide to go ahead and remove the ABS unit Have a look at this link http://jpramondon.blogspot.co.uk/2010/0 ... fully.html I wish I had seen this before I removed the servos from my R1150R. This is a neat solution that allows you to keep the electronic speedo and also saves having to tap into the wiring loom to run the brake lights via a relay.

There is no need to buy any parts to plumb the brake lines when removing the ABS. Re route the rear flex pipe so it connects to the master cylinder. http://www.ukgser.com/forums/attachment ... 1275394682 And route the front like this http://www.ukgser.com/forums/attachment ... 1275394691


Hope this helps.

[Bob2go]

Hi Hank
Thanks for the links. Every bit of info is good at this stage. I've isolated all the iABS plumbing, and re-jigged the front brake. Bled it today, and seems pretty firm. Left electrics in place, and all seems to work. The true test will come tomorrow, when the tank goes on and I fire up. I need to get a short stainless steel pipe made up for the rear brake, but at least I can gently nurse the bike along to the workshop. Must look for a schematic of the wiring colours, so I can cut the ABS flasher, and the gen warning light. Otherwise I'll just get out the black electric tape and cover it all up! Out of sight, out of mind?
Of course, as soon as I disabled the bike, the damn sun came out! First time we've seen it here in Ireland for months!

[hank]

Glad to hear you got it fixed Bob. Perhaps the best way to solve the warning light problem is to remove the bulbs. Hope the good weather stays long enough for you to get out and enjoy your bike, we are still waiting for summer to arrive on this side of the Irish sea.

[Bob2go]

Hi Hank. So far, so good. Found a good wiring diagram for the R1200CL and snipped the wires for the warning lights. Bliss! (OK, I'm lazy. Its easier than digging around in the instrument panel for the bulbs) Started her up, and the front brakes feel good! One of the original stainless pipes from the footbrake master cylinder to the now dead ABS, can be adapted to the new footbrake configuration, so it seems I'm getting off light in terms of cost. Will try to put that together in the next few days. Actually the ABS ain't quite dead. Servo still whining. Now...which wire do I cut......? Shades of James Bond....!

[hank]

Bob, you are starting to worry me now, I don't need any more grey hairs. Please don't go cutting wires there is no need, the safest way to stop the servo is to follow the instructions in this link and remove the electronic unit from the servo. http://jpramondon.blogspot.co.uk/2010/0 ... fully.html This will leave you with a neat wee box that takes care of the brake light and speedo signal.

You also mention using existing pipe work to connect the rear brake, are you planning to bend the pipe to fit? If so take care not to kink the pipe or over stress it. It would be easier to take the ends from the existing pipe to a local garage and get them to make up the pipe you need. It won't be expensive. Even better try and get hold of a non abs model pipe from Motorworks, or James Sherlock.

Please double check every thing that you do and make sure you have brakes before you take to the roads. Don't want you making a mess of the beautiful Irish scenery.

Edit. Just realised I screwed up with the link. Try this one below.

http://jpramondon.blogspot.co.uk/2010/0 ... fully.html

[georgek]

i am mechanically disinclined. i live in nyc and wouldn't even feel comfortable changing my oil on the street.
i would love to get together with anyone for the abs-ectomy in the tri-state area though, as doing this in a group would be great.

barring that though, help me understand what my risks are leaving the abs installed and letting the abs pump fail if it does.
i have been told and believe i've read here that if it fails you will have a regular breaking system and 14 lbs of useless components.
on the other hand, if just the electrical fails on the abs, like when once i dropped my bike and had no abs - i got it 'reset' by a great mechanic nearby - i'll have 'residual breaking', which what resulted for me that day. those breaks were certainly unacceptable and i had to do something immediately. i had to start breaking way, way in advance of a stop. if that happens again, is there any way to kill abs easily?

please feel free to dissect and correct any of my assumptions. thank you.
george

[Macker1]

I still dont really understand what you did to make the blue ABS relay work??

I have gone through my own process, have brake lights and tail light fine but no speedo, on a 2003 Rockster

Anyone any suggestions?