Fuel Pump

gel9001 · Post by **gel9001** » Wed Aug 23, 2006 7:53 pm

think I may have discovered problem of my bike turning off unexpectedly. Today with the motor off but Key on, the fuel pump cycled on and off a few times. Its never done that and I think its an indication the pump is failing.
I'm wondering what the dealer will do if anything. Will they switch the pump out under warranty? I certainly don't want to wait till it fails completly while I'm on the road. Any suggestions?

thanks,

Gene

Post by **iowabeakster** » Wed Aug 23, 2006 9:49 pm

if you are still under warranty, get it to the dealer and make them fix it! It may be as simple as bad switch or wire. they will have to figure it out though. very good observation, seems to make sense with the problems that you have been having.

gel9001 · Post by **gel9001** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 12:35 pm

think I found the problem, I can now reproduce motor shutting off at will. I turn the handlebars to the right, then back to center, consistently bike shuts off. Looks like I have a problem with wires being bunched up to tight with plastic wire ties. If I'm not mistaking DJ (Our Man Down Under) had this problem. DJ, is it a matter of removing all the cable ties and redoing them with some slack?

Hope to hear from someone soon, on the way home I'm stopping @ Home Depot and buying a mess of cable ties. I'm wondering if there is more damage as a result of tight cable ties. Perhaps at the fuel pump cut-off switch or at the wiring harness. May have to pull the tank, but first will remove all visible cable ties and see if that cures problem.

thanks,

Gene

johno · Post by **johno** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 4:35 pm

Sounds like a wire is allready faulty. Cutting cable ties will not fix it.
If under warranty, get the dealer to fix it. If not, start looking for the faulty wire.

Post by **Deano** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 5:21 pm

I had a similar problem in that my bike would cut off when I turned my bars to the right. Everyone advise that it was likely a result of a wire damaged by being too tightly secured. Since there was no obvious trauma visible, I turned it over to the dealer and they found out that the kill switch had failed.

gel9001 · Post by **gel9001** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 8:56 pm

before I left work I cut all the visible plastic ties with a pair of side cutters. Sure enough problem eliminated. Tomorrow I'll replace the ties, obviously with some slack.
thanks,

Gene

Post by **rdsmith3** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 8:14 am

Deano wrote:I had a similar problem in that my bike would cut off when I turned my bars to the right. Everyone advise that it was likely a result of a wire damaged by being too tightly secured. Since there was no obvious trauma visible, I turned it over to the dealer and they found out that the kill switch had failed.

Taking a deep breath ... hesitating to ask this question ... oh, what the heck

Do you use the kill switch to shut off the engine?

Post by **Deano** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 8:54 am

rdsmith3 wrote:
Deano wrote:I had a similar problem in that my bike would cut off when I turned my bars to the right. Everyone advise that it was likely a result of a wire damaged by being too tightly secured. Since there was no obvious trauma visible, I turned it over to the dealer and they found out that the kill switch had failed.
Taking a deep breath ... hesitating to ask this question ... oh, what the heck

Do you use the kill switch to shut off the engine?

No, I never use it. That's why I was somewhat surprised it failed. But it is a combo switch, so maybe the starter action led to the failure?

gel9001 · Post by **gel9001** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 8:57 am

whats wrong with that question? If you have an ABS bike, you're more likely to use the kill switch when you have to shut down your motor for a minute. if you use your key, then you lose the use of the brake servos.

Gene

Post by **Deano** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 9:06 am

gel9001 wrote:whats wrong with that question? If you have an ABS bike, you're more likely to use the kill switch when you have to shut down your motor for a minute. if you use your key, then you lose the use of the brake servos.

Gene

No, I just leave it in gear.

Paul Mihalka · Post by **Paul Mihalka** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 10:00 am

A bit of kill switch hijack: I use the switch regularly if I stop on a up or down incline. Sequence: I stop in first gear, clutch pulled in, bad surface so both feet on the ground, holding bike with front brake. Stop engine with kill switch using my thumb, release clutch, release front brake, switch off ignition. I don't know of any other way to do this.

Post by **DSKYZD** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 10:05 am

Run for the hills!!!!!!

Post by **iowabeakster** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 4:40 pm

Stop engine with kill switch using my thumb, release clutch, release front brake, switch off ignition. I don't know of any other way to do this.

just kick down the side stand, it has a kill switch also.

Post by **baltm604** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 11:30 pm

can I use the kill switch with synth oil? and what if I also mount your own tires, the savings of which are used to make sure I never ride without a helmet and ..........

Post by **CycleRob** » Sat Aug 26, 2006 9:52 pm

Uuuh . . . . Getting back to the wire problem . . . . if cutting the ties fixed the problem, you STILL have a problem!! The wires inside the harness at the bend are broken all the way thru. The fact that the harness is no longer being yanked apart by the ZIPties when turned explains why you think it's fixed. It's not. With the bike running, grab the harness at the bend and tug on it, bend it, move it. If the bike stalls, you need either a cut-n-replace repair -or- a new wire harness. Whichever you choose would depend if you're still under your warranty period and the dealer OK's it.

Boxer04 · Post by **Boxer04** » Sun Aug 27, 2006 7:15 am

CycleRob is correct. The removal of the cable ties has not altered the physical state of the wire. There is clearly an electrical cable that has a fracture (due to repeated bending) and at times the conducts electricity because the wires at the fracture touch. It will not heal itself and may let you down when you least need to be without your bike.

Also each of the wires in the loom have various thickness and number of strands. These are designed for the various current they are expected to carry. With a fractured wire, it will be carrying the normal current load across the fracture (when some of the wires are touching) and the bike is working. Only a few of the strands may be touching together and these few strands are not expected to carry the operating current. This means that the temperature will rise at that point in the few strands of the wire that are touching. Depending on the current load a burnback of the wires could occur. I would do what CycleRob suggested and chase and fix the problem.

Post by **Beemeridian** » Sun Aug 27, 2006 5:02 pm

gel9001 · Post by **gel9001** » Sun Aug 27, 2006 6:41 pm

thanks guys, I'll take it into the dealer, the bike is a 2004 so its still under warranty.

Gene