Thanks,
2002 R1150 RT- 52K
R 1150 RT Transmission leak
Moderator: Moderators
R 1150 RT Transmission leak
What I thought was a final drive leak coming out of the rear boot, ends up being a transmission output shaft seal leak. Can anyone comment on the how to change this without taking the transmission apart? I have read somewhere in the past this can be accomplished. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
2002 R1150 RT- 52K
Thanks,
2002 R1150 RT- 52K
Re: R 1150 RT Transmission leak
Yes, you can change that seal without removing the transmission. You'll have to remove everything behind the trans and then pull the seal. I haven't personally removed the seal like this, (I've always replaced them while I had the transmission apart 
)so maybe someone who has can tell you what works. Probably something like screwing 2 drywall screws into the seal and using them to pull it out. Get a manual before you start this. Several screws have to be heated to a certain temp before you attempt to remove them. If they aren't heated sufficiently, this can happen:
That's a 12mm allen key btw - not small. You need a 1/2 drive 12mm allen to torque things back down properly.
)so maybe someone who has can tell you what works. Probably something like screwing 2 drywall screws into the seal and using them to pull it out. Get a manual before you start this. Several screws have to be heated to a certain temp before you attempt to remove them. If they aren't heated sufficiently, this can happen:That's a 12mm allen key btw - not small. You need a 1/2 drive 12mm allen to torque things back down properly.
Re: R 1150 RT Transmission leak
Yup - you need to invest in a real "heat gun" and an IR thermometer.
Prices on the therm's have come way down, check Harbor Freight.
Those screws are red loctited - that stuff has to be melted before it
will let loose. If you force it, you can easily screw up those aluminum
fine pitch threads. Once that stuff melts, it doesn't re-harden.
I used blue loctite when I reassembled mine (it's the pivot nuts for the
swing arm, both front and rear). You also have to have torque wrenches
to set the preload on those pivots, so you NEED a manual before you start.
But don't let it scare you off - I swapped gearsets in my trans (low ratio
GSA out of a trans with a bad input shaft) into my R1150 roadster trans.
The cases even had to be heated to a certain temp range to allow the
trans shaft bearings to come out and go back in. But it works!!!
Just get a good manual and follow it step by step. Save you a ton of $
and you also have the satisfaction of doing it yourself!
Prices on the therm's have come way down, check Harbor Freight.
Those screws are red loctited - that stuff has to be melted before it
will let loose. If you force it, you can easily screw up those aluminum
fine pitch threads. Once that stuff melts, it doesn't re-harden.
I used blue loctite when I reassembled mine (it's the pivot nuts for the
swing arm, both front and rear). You also have to have torque wrenches
to set the preload on those pivots, so you NEED a manual before you start.
But don't let it scare you off - I swapped gearsets in my trans (low ratio
GSA out of a trans with a bad input shaft) into my R1150 roadster trans.
The cases even had to be heated to a certain temp range to allow the
trans shaft bearings to come out and go back in. But it works!!!
Just get a good manual and follow it step by step. Save you a ton of $
and you also have the satisfaction of doing it yourself!