Clutch Sticks
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Clutch Sticks
Lately I've had some problems with the clutch on my `03 R1150R. With a cold startup, I will have a period of the clutch not releasing for a second when I shift. The clutch hasn't been serviced for a long time. I'm wondering if it's got to do with the dreaded clutch servo problems that others have experienced.
I don't get caught in the rain, I ride in it on purpose.
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grwrockster
- Lifer
- Posts: 227
- Joined: Sun Aug 01, 2010 2:20 pm
- Location: West Wales, United Kingdom
Re: Clutch Sticks
Airman
If the clutch disengages properly when you pull the lever, but is then slow to engage when the lever is released, then that does sound like the clutch slave cylinder would be the best place to start to me (I assume that this is what you meant, as the clutch doesn't have a servo-assist unit).
It should be possible to pull the slave without a major bike strip though - I think if you drop out the rear shock there is just enough room to get the slave out from the back of the gearbox and past the swing-arm.
If the clutch disengages properly when you pull the lever, but is then slow to engage when the lever is released, then that does sound like the clutch slave cylinder would be the best place to start to me (I assume that this is what you meant, as the clutch doesn't have a servo-assist unit).
It should be possible to pull the slave without a major bike strip though - I think if you drop out the rear shock there is just enough room to get the slave out from the back of the gearbox and past the swing-arm.
Re: Clutch Sticks
Probably a slave, but not 100% guaranteed.
We've just done one on a 2001 R1150R. Rear caliper and wheel out of the way, drop the shock out and tape the little shock mudflap out of the way as well. You can get to the three bolts with a 1/4 drive and wobble joint, or even just a set of ball-joint hex drives. You will need to remove the main clutch line to get the slave out. Break the banjo at the slave with a shortened hex drive. Get the size, buy a cheap one and cut the short end down by half. Use a ring spanner or tube to give you some extra leverage.
If the clutch system hasn't been serviced for a while, check the line very carefully at the slave end for corrosion of the line under the protective rubber sleeve. Ours was so corroded it broke getting it out. Also, remember that if you do a manual bleed, try and keep the bleed line high. It helps remove the air. Don't run it down to a bucket.
Watch the little spurts of Dot4 at the master as you bleed. You get them on the release stroke. Use plenty of new fluid. Go to a chemist shop (drug store) and buy a large disposable syringe to remove most of the old fluid from the master. Try not to let the fluid go below the fluid hole in the bottom of the master.
Follow the correct bleed procedure. Side-stand, bars to right and fill to minimum when done. The master fills as the clutch wears.
It's a bit fiddly and you need to protect the painted stuff in the zone, but easy enough to do. It's a simple system and the slave (if leaking) is a likely cause, but the damage may be more widespread if fluid has run down the clutch push-rod. Unlikely, but possible. Most times you will remove the slave and it will be full of gunky brown stuff. Not always though. Sometimes a bit of old leakage just makes the slave piston a bit sticky and it may clean up with numerous actuation cycles.
So .............................. After all that, try and give the system a good flush and a good bleed. The new fluid, and the multiple pumps of the master lever and actuation of the slave may just save you a lot of heartache. It may prove a fail, or clear itself for a long time, or a short time. Worth a shot.
We've just done one on a 2001 R1150R. Rear caliper and wheel out of the way, drop the shock out and tape the little shock mudflap out of the way as well. You can get to the three bolts with a 1/4 drive and wobble joint, or even just a set of ball-joint hex drives. You will need to remove the main clutch line to get the slave out. Break the banjo at the slave with a shortened hex drive. Get the size, buy a cheap one and cut the short end down by half. Use a ring spanner or tube to give you some extra leverage.
If the clutch system hasn't been serviced for a while, check the line very carefully at the slave end for corrosion of the line under the protective rubber sleeve. Ours was so corroded it broke getting it out. Also, remember that if you do a manual bleed, try and keep the bleed line high. It helps remove the air. Don't run it down to a bucket.
Watch the little spurts of Dot4 at the master as you bleed. You get them on the release stroke. Use plenty of new fluid. Go to a chemist shop (drug store) and buy a large disposable syringe to remove most of the old fluid from the master. Try not to let the fluid go below the fluid hole in the bottom of the master.
Follow the correct bleed procedure. Side-stand, bars to right and fill to minimum when done. The master fills as the clutch wears.
It's a bit fiddly and you need to protect the painted stuff in the zone, but easy enough to do. It's a simple system and the slave (if leaking) is a likely cause, but the damage may be more widespread if fluid has run down the clutch push-rod. Unlikely, but possible. Most times you will remove the slave and it will be full of gunky brown stuff. Not always though. Sometimes a bit of old leakage just makes the slave piston a bit sticky and it may clean up with numerous actuation cycles.
So .............................. After all that, try and give the system a good flush and a good bleed. The new fluid, and the multiple pumps of the master lever and actuation of the slave may just save you a lot of heartache. It may prove a fail, or clear itself for a long time, or a short time. Worth a shot.
I ride an R1150GS Adventure with sidecar. IBA #39193