Hi:
I have a 2002 R1150R with 46k on it.
Noticed a little oil around the oil fill cap a few weeks ago. Not a lot, but pretty clear it was leaking out the top. A new O ring on the cap didn't help, so I got a new cap and O ring.
The dealer gave me 2 O rings: one for the cap and one for the cylinder cover. I looked on my factory manual and see that there is in fact a second O ring, but it looks like it is not accessible unless I take the cylinder cover off.
So, I noticed a little leakage again and I am guessing it is not the cap or its O ring but rather the inner one.
Has anyone ever had to replace that inner O ring? I have never taken the covers off myself, but it looks simple enough to unbolt them and replace the O ring from the inside. Please let me know what I should look out for and if it is as simple as that.
Thanks friends,
Mark
Oil Fill Cap
Moderator: Moderators
Re: Oil Fill Cap
It's a plastic insert that pops out from the top.
You can prise it out carefully, but risk damaging the lip if not careful. Most people just wait for the next valve adjustment and push it out from inside the cover when the cover is off.
Depends on how bad the leak is I suppose. See items 5 and 6.
It's no hassle to pull the valve cover. 4 bolts an a few drips of oil. You will need to clean the big gasket well, and both surfaces (head and cover). I apply Lubriplate 105 to mine on reinstall, but that's just personal preference. I highly recommend torquing the valve cover bolts to avoid stripping threads or creating leaks. It's a low torque. 8 Nm as I recall.
BMW build some good bikes. Pity they can't make decent oil filler caps, final drives and clutch packs!
You can prise it out carefully, but risk damaging the lip if not careful. Most people just wait for the next valve adjustment and push it out from inside the cover when the cover is off.
Depends on how bad the leak is I suppose. See items 5 and 6.
It's no hassle to pull the valve cover. 4 bolts an a few drips of oil. You will need to clean the big gasket well, and both surfaces (head and cover). I apply Lubriplate 105 to mine on reinstall, but that's just personal preference. I highly recommend torquing the valve cover bolts to avoid stripping threads or creating leaks. It's a low torque. 8 Nm as I recall.
BMW build some good bikes. Pity they can't make decent oil filler caps, final drives and clutch packs!
Last edited by MIXR on Tue Aug 28, 2012 4:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I ride an R1150GS Adventure with sidecar. IBA #39193
Re: Oil Fill Cap
Hi Mark,
no need to take the valve head off. The oil filler cap sits in some kind of clipped-in plastic construction. Underneath that black plastic sits the o-ring. You can carefully pry out that plastic thingy and the o-ring. Then in with the new stuff and you should be done ...
Brgds
Oliver
no need to take the valve head off. The oil filler cap sits in some kind of clipped-in plastic construction. Underneath that black plastic sits the o-ring. You can carefully pry out that plastic thingy and the o-ring. Then in with the new stuff and you should be done ...
Brgds
Oliver
Re: Oil Fill Cap
Gents...thanks for the quick response and advice. I may just take the cover off to get my man card punched!
Seriously, though...BMW coulda just used the good old screw on cap like my Zuk..no leakage 35 years later.
Cheers, and thanks,
Mark
Seriously, though...BMW coulda just used the good old screw on cap like my Zuk..no leakage 35 years later.
Cheers, and thanks,
Mark
Re: Oil Fill Cap
Removing and replacing the rocker cover is straight forward enough.
If you do decide to replace the inner seal yourself - whether during a valve adjustment or sooner - a few tips to make it go well are -
1) a small amount (1/4 cup) of oil will drop out when you remove the rocker cover. Have something underneath the rocker cover to catch it.
2) you can reuse the gasket (#2 in MIXR's diagram). Just make sure before reinstalling it that you wipe any oil off it and the sealing surfaces of the rocker cover & the head.
3) you can either reuse or replace the inner donut gasket (#3). If you reuse it try to rotate it say 180 degrees on the rocker cover spark plug flange. If you look carefully you'll notice an irregular indentation in the sealing surface of the donut. It's good if this indentation does not line up again with the casting irregularity that caused it in the first place. Hence the rotation. This just gives a better seal against an oil leak.
4) when reinstalling the rocker cover do it slowly and deliberately. If for any reason you have to back it off to reposition it, back it out completely and check to see if the donut gasket is still fitted correctly, then go ahead and reinstall the rocker cover again. The reason for checking is that backing the rocker cover out just a bit can cause the donut gasket to catch and move. An out of position donut gasket can cause an impressive oil leak once the motor is started.
5) retorque the rocker cover bolts to 9 Nm. Don't be gorilla-fisted or they will strip.
Ian
If you do decide to replace the inner seal yourself - whether during a valve adjustment or sooner - a few tips to make it go well are -
1) a small amount (1/4 cup) of oil will drop out when you remove the rocker cover. Have something underneath the rocker cover to catch it.
2) you can reuse the gasket (#2 in MIXR's diagram). Just make sure before reinstalling it that you wipe any oil off it and the sealing surfaces of the rocker cover & the head.
3) you can either reuse or replace the inner donut gasket (#3). If you reuse it try to rotate it say 180 degrees on the rocker cover spark plug flange. If you look carefully you'll notice an irregular indentation in the sealing surface of the donut. It's good if this indentation does not line up again with the casting irregularity that caused it in the first place. Hence the rotation. This just gives a better seal against an oil leak.
4) when reinstalling the rocker cover do it slowly and deliberately. If for any reason you have to back it off to reposition it, back it out completely and check to see if the donut gasket is still fitted correctly, then go ahead and reinstall the rocker cover again. The reason for checking is that backing the rocker cover out just a bit can cause the donut gasket to catch and move. An out of position donut gasket can cause an impressive oil leak once the motor is started.
5) retorque the rocker cover bolts to 9 Nm. Don't be gorilla-fisted or they will strip.
Ian
60% of the art of conversation is knowing when to say nothing
Re: Oil Fill Cap
I just recently swapped out my oil fill cap, it was really easy, and not expensive. I had the same problem you are experiencing, and new parts resolved the issue.
MIXR, what items are 10-11-12 in the picture? Where do they go?
MIXR, what items are 10-11-12 in the picture? Where do they go?
Re: Oil Fill Cap
Optional locking cap. Chrome I think, for the R1200C, but fits all oilheads. It's also on the GS parts breakdown!
I ride an R1150GS Adventure with sidecar. IBA #39193
Re: Oil Fill Cap
I just replaced parts 5 and 6 - the oil filler tube. I removed the valve cover but I think that made the job more difficult. You end up prying the old unit out anyway and this is easier to do on the bike. Putting the new unit in takes a lot of force but also would be easier to do with the cover on the bike.
Mine has been leaking for awhile and had got so bad that I could see the whole unit vibrating up and down in its slot in the valve cover.
I went on an 80-mile ride yesterday and it didn't leak a drop.
'04 Rockster with 47k miles
Mine has been leaking for awhile and had got so bad that I could see the whole unit vibrating up and down in its slot in the valve cover.
I went on an 80-mile ride yesterday and it didn't leak a drop.
'04 Rockster with 47k miles
2004 Rockster