Got the 2002 Roadster out for the first time this year. The clutch engages and works fine, until I roll on allot of throttle. It then slips at about 5000 RPM. Currently has 9200 miles.
Here’s the strange part. I didn’t change the oil or touch the Clutch all winter and it worked fine last fall.
Here’s what I have done.
At 6700 miles I changed the oil and used Castrol 20-50 full synthetic Motorcycle oil.
Yes too soon for Synth, it needed changing and I got the oil with the Motorcycle.
At 7800 miles I bled the Clutch with Castrol LVM DOT 4 brake fluid.
I checked for clutch fluid leaks at all points and found none. The Clutch res. is at the halfway point. Again it has all been working fine for a couple years and almost 2000 miles.
Thoughts?
Slipping Clutch - low miles
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Slipping Clutch - low miles
1974 Kawi H-1 500
1975 Norton 850
2002 BMW R1150R
2008 Suzuki Bandit 1250
2013 BMW GS 650 Sertao
1975 Norton 850
2002 BMW R1150R
2008 Suzuki Bandit 1250
2013 BMW GS 650 Sertao
Re: Slipping Clutch - low miles
My first thought is the clutch is not releasing completely. If not leaking fluid I would ride it for a while being careful not to slip the clutch like maybe a good 100 miles down the road normal riding w/o going to the point where it slips.
If that doesn't do anything you can pull the starter and check for any obvious sources for the problem, or the timing hole plug.
Since it set up for the winter could be the clutch cylinder(master) is just not releasing all the way, it has a bleeder so you might try to bleed. (maybe release a bit of fluid)
If that doesn't do anything you can pull the starter and check for any obvious sources for the problem, or the timing hole plug.
Since it set up for the winter could be the clutch cylinder(master) is just not releasing all the way, it has a bleeder so you might try to bleed. (maybe release a bit of fluid)
mike Mojave CA
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'04 ROCKSTER
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Re: Slipping Clutch - low miles
Clutch Slip Update: After having the better half help manually bleed the Clutch there is no longer any slipage at peak power...thankfully.
It did bleed out a few small air bubbles. When I removed the ABS and installed braided brake lines I also bled the Clutch using a manual vacuum pump initially.
I was concerned as the friend we bought this from rode it well (hard). It was well maintained and sat dormant for a few years while he was active duty.
Going camping with it next weekend "up north" as they say around here. Will thoroughly wring it out then.
It did bleed out a few small air bubbles. When I removed the ABS and installed braided brake lines I also bled the Clutch using a manual vacuum pump initially.
I was concerned as the friend we bought this from rode it well (hard). It was well maintained and sat dormant for a few years while he was active duty.
Going camping with it next weekend "up north" as they say around here. Will thoroughly wring it out then.
1974 Kawi H-1 500
1975 Norton 850
2002 BMW R1150R
2008 Suzuki Bandit 1250
2013 BMW GS 650 Sertao
1975 Norton 850
2002 BMW R1150R
2008 Suzuki Bandit 1250
2013 BMW GS 650 Sertao
Re: Slipping Clutch - low miles
Tundra Dweller wrote:Clutch Slip Update: After having the better half help manually bleed the Clutch there is no longer any slipage at peak power...thankfully.
It did bleed out a few small air bubbles. When I removed the ABS and installed braided brake lines I also bled the Clutch using a manual vacuum pump initially.
I was concerned as the friend we bought this from rode it well (hard). It was well maintained and sat dormant for a few years while he was active duty.
Going camping with it next weekend "up north" as they say around here. Will thoroughly wring it out then.
Good news, and we can all use good news in these crazy times.
Also, thanks for reminder about clutch service - will add it to my Rockster2 list as part of post-crash rebuild.
I've always wondered about pressure-fill and bleeding of clutch and front brakes for R1150**, since that seems to be the OE fill technique.
Rockster#2, K1300S, S1000R (for sale)
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Re: Slipping Clutch - low miles
Glad that was an easy fix. That outcome was as good as it gets. The RT I bought a few months ago had just had the ABS and clutch serviced so I don't have to think about that till next year. I'm glad I still have my filler adapter funnel I made up years ago for my first iABS system. A bit of surgery required on this beast to get to the pump.
I guess I'll also have to find the radiator cap while I'm in there. Previous owner gave me a funny look when I asked when she last had the antifreeze changed.
I guess I'll also have to find the radiator cap while I'm in there. Previous owner gave me a funny look when I asked when she last had the antifreeze changed.
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Re: Slipping Clutch - low miles
Tundra Dweller,
About changing the slave system DOT4 fluid, here is a detailed procedure that ensures you do all the right things in the proper sequence while using less than one 12 oz bottle of DOT4 fluid -and- without any special tools needed. My advice, because of the age of the bike, is that you completely remove the slave cylinder for disassembly/inspection/cleaning. It is the "low point' of the system and that makes it the worst location for the DOT 4 absorbed water to work its' dirty deeds for about 18 years.
http://r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?f ... 82#p251882
About changing the slave system DOT4 fluid, here is a detailed procedure that ensures you do all the right things in the proper sequence while using less than one 12 oz bottle of DOT4 fluid -and- without any special tools needed. My advice, because of the age of the bike, is that you completely remove the slave cylinder for disassembly/inspection/cleaning. It is the "low point' of the system and that makes it the worst location for the DOT 4 absorbed water to work its' dirty deeds for about 18 years.
http://r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?f ... 82#p251882
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Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--