Changed fuel line quick-connectors, now it won't start.

[Soliton]

Hi all,

I still had the disconnects with the half plastic bodies so I bought the full metal versions and swapped them out. Started everything up before buttoning it all back up and it started. Put it back together it its cranky. It cranked but wouldn't start. I had run the tank low as I knew I was going to lift it so I though maybe I had run out of fuel. Added some and I got it to start after much messing about. It ran then stopped.

Tried agin and it ran (if I held it at 3000rpm (maybe thirty secs) then it coughed and stopped.

I have checked all the obvious but I'm stumped. Could jiggering about under the tank and turning it over etc, have loosened rubbish in the lobes of the tank and deposited it into the injectors. I have no idea.

Any ideas are gratefully accepted.

Regards,

Sol

[riceburner]

Throttle cable in its little cup on the bodies?

Fuel pump?

Blocked tank breather?

That's the first 3 off the top of my head.

[riceburner]

Doesn't sound electrical (ie plugs and caps). Sounds like fuel flow (or lack of)

[Bogdan]

I second looking to see if the throttle cables are in the little cups. I'm told it's usually the one on the right that isn't all the way in.

[swamper]

I'd suspect all of the above. Double check the hose clamps not being tight.

[Soliton]

Throttle cables were definitely seated, That one has bitten me on the behind too many times to fall for it again.

I stripped it back down to check for electrical issues. Cant see anything obvious. (Cut, split, disconnected)

I'll put the tank on and check:
- Fuel onto the plugs.
- Breathers are not pinched
- Injector obstruction

Since it's apart it might be a good chance to install the new sub-frame and re-sheath and re-run the wiring.

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'll keep you apprised.

Sol.

[CycleRob]

1) Make sure the fuel pump connector is fully plugged in -AND- there are NO plug terminal wire push outs.

2) Could be air still in the system. Turn the key and kill switch on in neutral and listen for the fuel pump whirring and then seconds later do its normal time out stop. Then turn the key on and off again to utilize 4 or 5 more fuel pump run times. When it changes RPM and tone slightly you'll have no air in the system and solid fuel pressure. That may have happened early on so after 5 times it should be fully purged.

3) I don't know if it is possible to run the engine like you did, but . . . . Did you mix up the fuel line connections when you changed them?

[Boxer]

If I recall correctly, the first time I changed out the internal fuel filter a couple of the internal fuel line clamps were very easy to get loose...as in untight...loose as a goose. Maybe with the jostling around one came off or something. You said you had it started up after adding the new QDs then after "buttoning it up" it developed these issues. My suggestion would be to go backwards now and take things apart again, checking as you go. That same thing happened to me on one of my fuel tank removals and as Rob said, I had reconnected something bass ackwards.

[riceburner]

Any news?

Re the breather lines - ime it's not often they get pinched - but they do seem get blocked by debris at inopportune times.

(which reminds me - I need to clear the filler drain on the Rockster at some point).

[Soliton]

Thanks guys,

I pulled it all to bits checked everything as I reassembled, cycled the fuel pump 5 times and it all ran.

Rs,

Sol

[riceburner]

Thanks guys,

I pulled it all to bits checked everything as I reassembled, cycled the fuel pump 5 times and it all ran.

Rs,

Sol

Good stuff!