CURED! The Curse of the Buzzing Mirrors ....
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- priapismic
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CURED! The Curse of the Buzzing Mirrors ....
From the "I should have thought of that sooner" department (cross-filed under the "Why didn't BMW think of this" department):
I've owned my R for just over four years now, and like everyone else, I've learned to live with the mirrors that vibrate at certain rpm's. I've read the posts concerning this (every few months someone new will join the board, who will have just acquired the bike, and will ask, "Is this normal?") and I've even seen a few suggestions for a cure. CycleRob posted a "someday in the future I'm gonna ..." post a while back where he wistfully envisions boring a hole in the underside of each mirror, then filling the cavity with an assortment of nuts and bolts in a glue stew concoction, so that when the glue hardens the mirror body will be substantially heavier. More mass = less vibrating, at least in theory.
I'd been thinking for a long while about something simpler, when it hit me. What do the Evolution-engined Harleys (not the counter-balanced Twin Cam 88's) do to quell their shaking? Well, they isolate the engine from the frame by virute of rubberized motor mounts. Well, Duh! Could it really be that easy? What would I use to rubber mount my mirrors? I'd been toying around with the idea of possibly snipping some small pieces of old bicycle inner tube when I got the light bulb flash in my head. So this is what I did:
Went down to the local home improvement store, meandered over to the plumbing stuff, and came away with several different sized rubber O-rings.
This is the first package I tried, and it fit perfectly:
I'm sure you metric folks can find an equivalent. Now here's what you do - remove each mirror, insert an O-ring at the base of the stalk, above the threads, and another at the top of the nut that screws on to the threaded portion of the stalk. Voila! Now, go take a ride, and notice that the dreaded buzzing - particularly in the infamous 4-5,000 rpm range - is gone! Now my mirrors act like every other bike I've owned (the numbers are legion), and I can actually see what's behind me. Calm and clear (is that a copper behind me?) up to the most ridiculous rpm levels. I'm talking above 6 grand, where I visit only rarely when revving the beast through the gears. Oh, just a hint of vibes sneak in as the revs rise, especially on the right side for some reason, but WOW what an improvement. Try it, you'll like it!
Now if you've never removed your mirrors, be advised of one little problem I had. As I stated above, the mirrors have a threaded section at the base of the stalk. They are held onto the bar by a specialized nut that screws on to the threaded section from below. Which means you've got to get under the handlebar, and using an allen wrench (there should be one in your toolkit that fits), turn that nut until it comes off (careful not to drop that nut and lose it!). The left mirror went fine, but on the right side, that nut is partially obscured by the switchgear housing, so I had to fiddle with it quite a bit before I could get the wrench on it. When trying to re-mount the mirror, access was so cramped that I got the nut on kinda sideways, and ... promptly proceeded to strip the threads on the mirror stalk. Major Bummer! After checking Ebay for some replacement mirrors, I decided to try filing the knackered threads, and sure enough, that did the trick. Didn't take much, just ran a file along the threads and cleaned up the gnarled threads a bit, and when I tested the nut on the threads off the bike, it went on just fine. So I attacked it again ON the bike, this time using my fingers to get the nut started straight, and in a moment I knew I had it. Couldn't wait to go for a ride and try out my solution, which I now know works like a charm!
I've owned my R for just over four years now, and like everyone else, I've learned to live with the mirrors that vibrate at certain rpm's. I've read the posts concerning this (every few months someone new will join the board, who will have just acquired the bike, and will ask, "Is this normal?") and I've even seen a few suggestions for a cure. CycleRob posted a "someday in the future I'm gonna ..." post a while back where he wistfully envisions boring a hole in the underside of each mirror, then filling the cavity with an assortment of nuts and bolts in a glue stew concoction, so that when the glue hardens the mirror body will be substantially heavier. More mass = less vibrating, at least in theory.
I'd been thinking for a long while about something simpler, when it hit me. What do the Evolution-engined Harleys (not the counter-balanced Twin Cam 88's) do to quell their shaking? Well, they isolate the engine from the frame by virute of rubberized motor mounts. Well, Duh! Could it really be that easy? What would I use to rubber mount my mirrors? I'd been toying around with the idea of possibly snipping some small pieces of old bicycle inner tube when I got the light bulb flash in my head. So this is what I did:
Went down to the local home improvement store, meandered over to the plumbing stuff, and came away with several different sized rubber O-rings.
This is the first package I tried, and it fit perfectly:
I'm sure you metric folks can find an equivalent. Now here's what you do - remove each mirror, insert an O-ring at the base of the stalk, above the threads, and another at the top of the nut that screws on to the threaded portion of the stalk. Voila! Now, go take a ride, and notice that the dreaded buzzing - particularly in the infamous 4-5,000 rpm range - is gone! Now my mirrors act like every other bike I've owned (the numbers are legion), and I can actually see what's behind me. Calm and clear (is that a copper behind me?) up to the most ridiculous rpm levels. I'm talking above 6 grand, where I visit only rarely when revving the beast through the gears. Oh, just a hint of vibes sneak in as the revs rise, especially on the right side for some reason, but WOW what an improvement. Try it, you'll like it!
Now if you've never removed your mirrors, be advised of one little problem I had. As I stated above, the mirrors have a threaded section at the base of the stalk. They are held onto the bar by a specialized nut that screws on to the threaded section from below. Which means you've got to get under the handlebar, and using an allen wrench (there should be one in your toolkit that fits), turn that nut until it comes off (careful not to drop that nut and lose it!). The left mirror went fine, but on the right side, that nut is partially obscured by the switchgear housing, so I had to fiddle with it quite a bit before I could get the wrench on it. When trying to re-mount the mirror, access was so cramped that I got the nut on kinda sideways, and ... promptly proceeded to strip the threads on the mirror stalk. Major Bummer! After checking Ebay for some replacement mirrors, I decided to try filing the knackered threads, and sure enough, that did the trick. Didn't take much, just ran a file along the threads and cleaned up the gnarled threads a bit, and when I tested the nut on the threads off the bike, it went on just fine. So I attacked it again ON the bike, this time using my fingers to get the nut started straight, and in a moment I knew I had it. Couldn't wait to go for a ride and try out my solution, which I now know works like a charm!
Viagra Donor and well-known reprobate and provocateur ....
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Actually, I've already made the weight add modification a couple weeks ago to my 1150R's K1200RS mirrors. It took away 90% of the engine vibe shakes, -but- it increased the road vibration/bump caused blurrs. Now the left mirror is clear and the right mirror is mildly buzzy. Not a big deal on most roads. It's perfect on smooth roads - - - and it's overall better than before. I can distinguish a Cop car from a regular Ford Crown Victoria.
I took pictures of all the ball and roller bearings I added to each mirror and used 3 glue sticks per mirror. Pics and procedure I used will follow soon, after I locate and upload the pics to PhotoBucket..
I'll add a set of O-rings too. I suggest you use Blue Loctite or at least paint the threads with nail polish so it doesn't loosen up.
I took pictures of all the ball and roller bearings I added to each mirror and used 3 glue sticks per mirror. Pics and procedure I used will follow soon, after I locate and upload the pics to PhotoBucket..
I'll add a set of O-rings too. I suggest you use Blue Loctite or at least paint the threads with nail polish so it doesn't loosen up.
`09 F800ST
Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--
Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--
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Here's 2 pics outlining my weighty solution for my K1200RS mirrors:
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r87/ ... irror1.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r87/ ... irror3.jpg
See my post above for how it works on the road.
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r87/ ... irror1.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r87/ ... irror3.jpg
See my post above for how it works on the road.
`09 F800ST
Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--
Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--
...me too.
I picked up this exact pack of O-rings from Home Depot today.
Yes, the right side is a b-hatch (Any ACAD fans?) to get on. I ended up using some petroleum jelly to help the O-ring stick. It turned out to be easier to put the bottom side ring on first and then try to get the nut started (the jelly helped there too). That way you're not trying to hold that O-ring on the nut and catch threads at the same time.
No ride yet to report on the success of this mod. We're all wet from TS Barry and the bike is clean awaiting my departure for the RA Rally.
One thing I noticed when putting the mirrors back on. Previously the stalks were angled back more and I had hard time getting the mirrors adjusted outward enough to see anything but my elbows. I reinstalled them so that the stalks were more perpendicular to the bike and found a much greater degree of adjustability.
Thanks for the tip!!!
DSKYZD
Yes, the right side is a b-hatch (Any ACAD fans?) to get on. I ended up using some petroleum jelly to help the O-ring stick. It turned out to be easier to put the bottom side ring on first and then try to get the nut started (the jelly helped there too). That way you're not trying to hold that O-ring on the nut and catch threads at the same time.
No ride yet to report on the success of this mod. We're all wet from TS Barry and the bike is clean awaiting my departure for the RA Rally.
One thing I noticed when putting the mirrors back on. Previously the stalks were angled back more and I had hard time getting the mirrors adjusted outward enough to see anything but my elbows. I reinstalled them so that the stalks were more perpendicular to the bike and found a much greater degree of adjustability.
Thanks for the tip!!!
DSKYZD
JOURNEY JUNKIE #187
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- Lifer
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567
Last edited by Beemeridian on Mon Jun 08, 2015 5:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Most people don't do what's right, they do what's most convenient and then repent
2015 Honda PCX150
2015 Honda PCX150
I tried to use scotch tape on the right side, taped the ring to the nut, and it worked,( as far as holding the ring in place long enough to start the nut)
Last edited by OU812 on Mon Jun 04, 2007 5:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
RIDE TOO PRETEND, PRETEND TOO RIDE.
89 Oldwing, 07 WR250R, 14 KX250F
89 Oldwing, 07 WR250R, 14 KX250F
Supremo! I have those KRS mirrors on mine and the first one I got for the right side has the mirror part actually loose in the frame. It rattles around somewhat and makes a noise like tires rolling through large gravel. I've tried squirting silicone gel inside through a hole in the bottom, but it didn't work. I couldn't get enough in there. Now I'm thinking maybe some super-glue along the inside lip of the mirror frame itself.
This o-ring solution is a major breakthrough! Its off to Lowe's for me this morning.
This o-ring solution is a major breakthrough! Its off to Lowe's for me this morning.
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It works! The images in the mirrors are clear most of the time, and even at the dreaded 4,000 RPM are still discernable. THANKS Priapismic!
A note of warning though; the 10nm torque specification will become invalid with the O-rings for a higher setting is needed to keep the mirrors stable. 12 worked fine for me.
Re-nstallation of the right mirror nut was a breeze and it was easy to see why; I'm a natural lefty, and it takes a left-hander to articulate.
Somewhere in Germany right now there wanders a hapless left-handed former BMW employee who was laid off when the last R1150R rolled of the line, going from place to place with a resumé that reads: Last Job Duties: Installing nut for right mirror
A note of warning though; the 10nm torque specification will become invalid with the O-rings for a higher setting is needed to keep the mirrors stable. 12 worked fine for me.
Re-nstallation of the right mirror nut was a breeze and it was easy to see why; I'm a natural lefty, and it takes a left-hander to articulate.
Somewhere in Germany right now there wanders a hapless left-handed former BMW employee who was laid off when the last R1150R rolled of the line, going from place to place with a resumé that reads: Last Job Duties: Installing nut for right mirror
Most people don't do what's right, they do what's most convenient and then repent
2015 Honda PCX150
2015 Honda PCX150
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rubber o-rings a big improvement
I put two o-rings on the top and one below. Much clearer view. Low speeds in town and the mirrors are glass clear. They still fuzz a little at higher revs/speed. My left mirror is clearest up to 80 mph or so and the right mirror becomes clearest above 80mph.
I torqued the nuts down pretty tight so I am going add another o ring to the bottom of the assembly and use a torque wrench to measure my tightening to see if I can improve upon this idea. I also have the next thickest o rings 3/32 od and might try them next.
this is a great idea!
I torqued the nuts down pretty tight so I am going add another o ring to the bottom of the assembly and use a torque wrench to measure my tightening to see if I can improve upon this idea. I also have the next thickest o rings 3/32 od and might try them next.
this is a great idea!