Fuel Filter replacement

[davidh8462]

I have ordered the 12/24 maintenance kit from Beemerboneyard. Since I am replacing the battery with a Westco and the 36K maintenace is required; I am planning on installing the air filter and fuel filter when I have the fuel tank off. How critical is it to replace the fuel filter at the 36K marker? I have been reading in my "Clymer" the steps to replace the fuel filter and not sure if I want to take this on? How difficult is this job to replace the fuel filter?

[boxermania]

Replacing the fuel filter is not difficult but tedious......keeping tabs on the folowing will make things much easier for you.

1) Insure the tank is as empty as possible
2) Mark the location off the flange to the tank, to make re-installatin simpler.
3) Removing the innards has to be done slowly and with patience as there is only one way the whole thing will come out and not damage the components, the same goes in for re-installation.
4) Remove components one at a time, if in doubt take a picture.
5) Insure the pump to filter hose is tght and pliable if not, replace. It has to be R10 type, nothing else.

Good luck..........

[kantuckid]

I relocated my fuel filter to the top of the air filter using a SS hose clamp drilled and screwed into one of the OBD clip holes.Relocated OBD to front right corner of air filter box top. Buy 4-5' of 8mm/5/16"injection fuel line,some injection hose clamps,a $4 steel filter, place tubing in location of original filter and plumb. I changed to the www.smallparts.com brass disconnects while doing the plumbing. If you are careful you can reuse the OEM hose clamps-I insert a very small steel pin punch in the hole of the clamps crimp and turn back & forth with pressure and slip of in reverse then recrimp with wire cutters. This makes the filter an easy buy on the road and also an easy change! It has been said that you should have a new large O ring on hand for the reinstall of the parts into the tank, no matter how you choose to do your fuel filter. I found that in going right back together it was a non issue as to it being old & hard or getting bigger lying around.

[taosports]

Great advice from boxermania above, so to help illustrate, here's a photo. Note the marked tape I use. (tip #2 from boxermania) One thing I'll add to his advice above is don't use a lot of torque when tightening down the flange to the tank. Those screw threads are easy to strip. You just want enough pressure to help compress the o-ring.

[keithbw]

Nice photo, if it's your first time removing the assembly that the pump has to end up behind the bulge below the tape.

At first look, after you have removed the little nuts from the the back of the fuel pump assembly plate, it seems absurd that
the assembly has to come out through that opening. Put the tank on a table if you can, it is much easier to get both hands on
either side of the plate to rotate it slightly clockwise, and then angle the assembly out slowly as boxermania noted, you do not want to damage the mesh bag on the intake or any of the exposed wiring.

You do have pull the mounting plate back off the fixed studs and will feel some resistance from the intake bag and pump pressing against the inside of the tank, but there is some give in the mounting bracket.

It actually goes in and out rather smoothly once you have figured out the exact orientation. Nothing needs to be bent or forced.
Kind of like those wire and wood puzzles at specialty game stores, you just have to relax and play with it a while.
Removing the single use OEM clamps was the biggest pain for me.

[boxermania]

Ahhh.... a picture is worth a thousand words, thanks, taosports

Just looking at the picture I feel the need to add something else.....make sure the new filter is installed in the proper orientation.....WATCH THE ARROW!!!!

Yes, it will work the other way, however, the area of exposed filtering material will be less and the filter will clog faster..........

[davidh8462]

Great Picture...helps alot. The one time clamps on the fuel filter look like the ones on the quick release. I had to use a wire cutter and pliers to get the OEM BMW clamps off when I replaced the quick releases. I guess the same thing here.. any other thoughts on how to get this clamps off..to make this go smooth..

[R1150Rclean]

Great Picture...helps alot. The one time clamps on the fuel filter look like the ones on the quick release. I had to use a wire cutter and pliers to get the OEM BMW clamps off when I replaced the quick releases. I guess the same thing here.. any other thoughts on how to get this clamps off..to make this go smooth..

Use diagonal pliers (http://www.acehardware.com/product/inde ... =109356035) that is what I used on the quick release clamps, get very sharp Klein pliers or something similar and you can cut it right off. End cut pliers will also work, just make sure you get 8" or larger pliers so you have enough leverage.

[marsdog]

In addition to the Boxermania advice, I'd suggest taking pics of the position of the parts before you disassemble things. And when you do take out the pump, pay attention to the direction and how far you twist it to remove it from the tank. The only real challenge in the job, is getting the pump back into the tank, you need to position it exactly the same way it came out. Trust me, I didn't do it that way the first time I did that job! That was NOT fun!

[davidh8462]

Just send a shout out to all that provide comment and suggest to me on replacing the fuel filter. EXTEMELY HELPFUL!! It went very smooth, inspected all hoses (no cracks or breaks) was able to get the OEM clampsoff relativel easy (big surprise after wrestling with OEM clamps on the QR). Totally amazed that the assembly acutally fits back but the marked tape location gave me the orentation I need to get all back in the tank. . Patents and relaxing was the key for me along with your pictures and discriptions of removing the flange. THANKS AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!

[Dr. Strangelove]

And now that you have untied the Gordian knot of the fuel filter replacement, consider externalizing it.
Just sayin'
John

[macx]

And now that you have untied the Gordian knot of the fuel filter replacement, consider externalizing it.
Just sayin'
John

Couldn't agree more.

The first time I opened that mess up I decided to mount it externally
because I never wanted to go thru that again, OR to have a filter clog
while on the road.

Now it takes me all of 5 minutes if I need to change a filter and all
I need is a flat blade screwdriver and some rags to catch the drips.
No worries about stripping the little studs or breaking them loose
from the tank, or about getting that big O ring sealed or having a
new one on hand with me if I have to change the filter on the road
if I get a bad batch of gas or something.

I didn't think to do it that way, but one forum member re-used the
existing hoses in the tank and simply substituted a short
piece of hard tubing for the filter, I believe with a slight flare on
each end so the hoses won't slip off. By far the easiest way.
And worm drive efi clamps to replace those PITA one time
crimp type oem clamps.

Other than that, here's how I did it on the outside.

http://www.mediafire.com/?dj2jjdyjlm0

[kantuckid]

I interjected this notion but some are bent on staying as is/OEM? My filter is steel & on the top of the air box and is a size that you can get for $4 @ any parts house or Wally world.Do not use plastic. All you do is remove the seat and take a screwdriver to it. I used a metal tube in the tank to replace the former filter location. There is no need for a tube that has a swelled end in there-just clamp it tightly and be sure to use a tube that fits tightly too.It is important to use injection clamps and I chose SS over zinc. These are found online or at a marine service shop. Using only 5/16-8mm fuel injection line is also a must. Plan on 4.5'-5' if you locate your filter other than hanging on the side as shown in the recent thread.

[davidh8462]

I finally got it all back together : started it up and it is running "rough". Took it for a little test ride down the street and hestitates for a second they surges...it also backfired when I tried to start it....any thoughts as to what is causes this? Is there some adjustment that needs to be done?

[boxermania]

Assuming the filter install is OK, check to see if the fuel line quick connects are all the way home. They must snap together, otherwise you will not get full flow and that appears to be the case.....

[CycleRob]

davidh8462,

This is a common problem. It sounds like the throttle cable on the right side TB has pulled out of the adjuster ferrule when you were struggling with the fuel lines -or- the cable outer housing is just not all the way down inside the adjuster. If you see the throttle cable internal wire, it got pulled out of place. Put it back in, then try pinching 2 fingers of your left hand around the adjuster and the cable at the same time, while twisting the throttle to the full throttle stop. If you feel the cable drop down inside the adjuster, that was your problem.

.

[davidh8462]

I should mention that when I was replacing the fuel filter, I also replaced air filter and battery. In readying in my Clymer, you are supposed to reset the motronics to reset the throttle positions. I neglected to do this .."my bad". I have remove the tank and checking QR and air filter to be sure it is seated properly. Will make sure QR snap together, and check throttle cable' reinstall fuel tank and hope for the best.

[davidh8462]

I have recheck the fuel filter and have install same as the picture above in this string of posts. I have also check air filter, and battery, reset the motroncs. Also check the Quick release, reinstalled to insure the "snap". It is running better but still a little rough, also check the trottle cable nothing appears to loose. I am puzzled..no more backfire, but the motor still misses/hesitates when I give it full throttle when I accelerated and has trouble idling..Any ideas to further issues to check..One last thought, the fact that I have changed the air filter and fuel filter could that be causing my plugs to foul out, should I change out the plugs ??

[taosports]

David,

The bike was running fine before you went in to replace the fuel and air filter correct? If true then odds are that it is something you did or did not do in the process to cause the rough running. Changing both filters does not foul your plugs so that's not an issue. The only things I can think of besides the great advice already given to you is possible gas contamination or the O2 sensor has been damaged during your air filter install. Both of those could cause rough running.

[davidh8462]

Thanks for the response. I will check the air filter, I have an 04 model (later model) that does not have an O2 sensor that I am aware of it. Looked in the Clymer and could not find any reference or picture of an O2 sensor. I am going to apply a light coat of grease to the bottom of the air filter according to the Clymer manual to ensure a tight fit. I am thinking that maybe the air filter is not sealing properly and impacting the gas / air mixture.