Albuquerque - Vegas

[AbqDave]

.... R1200R optimized.

This ride is about 600 miles and can be done in a day without killing yourself. There are a couple of caveats. Pay attention to your tank because there are parts of this ride where gas stations are far between. Be ready for temperature extremes; it is not at all uncommon to go from 40's/raining in Flagstaff to 100+/bright sunshine is Searchlight. Bring water.

Trip is good any time except when there is snow on the ground. Early fall might be the best. Best to leave Albuquerque very early to allow time for side trips; the first leg of the trip, although beautiful, is probably the least scenic. If you're going to take any part of this trip in the dark, let it be at the beginning.

1. Albuquerque to Grants. Follow I-40 west through mesa country. On the Laguna reservation, there is an excellent travel center at the Rt 66 casino. In the dark early morning hours, there is often a temperature inversion in the Rio Puerco valley, and it is good to stop here for hot coffee. Further along, the Laguna Pueblo is visible from the highway as the road carves gently around red rock cliffs. As you approach Grants, the highway cuts through a recent lava flow.

2. Grants to Holbrook via Zuni. Turn south on 53 at Grants. This will take you past the Malpais lava flow. From where the road turns west, until you get to El Morro national monument, this is a well maintained, twisty two-lane that is kind of conducive to going fast. If you've timed your departure correctly, the morning sun should be flickering through the ponderosa pines. Fabulous!. El Morro is totally cool and worth a stop; there is a spring at the base of the mesa, virtually the only perennial water supply for many miles. Travelers have been stopping here for hundreds of years, and carving their initials in the soft sandstone cliff face. So there you will see 1200-year-old petroglyphs, 600-year-old Spanish inscriptions, and 19th century cowboy and railway worker graffiti. Carry on to the Zuni res, a green oasis. This is also worth a stop; the Zuni people are chatty, generous, friendly, and they make gorgeous pottery and inlay jewelry. (Don't buy "souveniers" on this trip; bring some money and support Native American artisans along your journey). Leaving Zuni, continue on 53 across the Arizona border, and then turn right on 191 to find your way back to 40. Continue west, through the Petrified Forest, to Holbrook.

3. Holbrook to Flagstaff. This is not a good stretch in the spring after noon; vicious dust storms slam across the painted desert, often severe enough to close the highway. Not fun on a bike. Before noon, pretty much any time of year, it should be a pleasant sunny ride. Not a good place to speed; this stretch is heavily patrolled. Eagles fans might want to get off the interstate and roll through Winslow. Astronomy fans should consider a brief side trip to the meteor crater.

4. Alternate route: Dine land. Another way to make it to Flagstaff from Grants is to stay on or near I-40 to Gallup. The historic Rt. 66 is the frontage road to the 40 through this stretch, and is a bit more relaxing than duking it out with semi's. Just watch out for drunk drivers, and beware of sand on the road. In Gallup, head north a little ways on 491, then west on 264 through Window Rock, the capital of the Navajo nation. Past Window Rock, the highway passes over a beautiful wooded ridge, and then drops down into the Desert, eventually reaching the Hopi Second Mesa. This is wild and remote country. The Hopi museum and visitor center in Second Mesa is worth a stop. From Second Mesa, head south on 87. This will take you through the Hopi volcanic field, which will remind you of monument valley. Pull off at the picnic area on the right as you start getting close to Winslow; this will give you fantastic views across the painted desert towards Flagstaff. Merge onto 40 in Winslow and carry on toward Flagstaff.

5. Flagstaff. This is a funky town! It is way up in the mountains, cool and heavily forested. The old downtown is full of restaurants and shops. Great place to stop for a late lunch. Swadee Thai is recommended. Ideally you should roll through there at 1 or 2 in the afternoon. If you want to make this a two (or more) day trip, stop at a hotel or campground in Flagstaff and you're a short distance from the south rim of the Grand Canyon. Or, in the other direction, a hair-raising romp down canyon to Sedona.

6. Flagstaff to Kingman. You are now, officially, in Rt. 66 heaven. Follow the 40 west. Swing through Williams if the cowboy festival is going on. Watch for elk in the alpine meadows on either side of the highway. Just past Ash Fork, exit onto historic 66. You will very quickly leave the interstate environment. At first you will ride the very edge of the Colorado Plateau through high, flat, semi-arid cowboy country dotted with cindercones and mesas; and then, through the pinyon forests and hills of Indian country near the south rim. Seligman is good for a coffee or chicken-fried-steak break. Past Seligman, you will enter the wilderness. My advice? Go fast. Feel the wind. Smell the countryside. Race the train (he will blast his whistle as you go by). Noir-era Burma-Shave ads are occasionally seen; there is ironic amusement in trying to catch the "slow down" message zipping by at 110. Beyond Peach Springs, where you catch glimpses of the Grand Canyon, you will be carving up twisties through the hills of the Hualapai reservation. The plateau ends suddenly in basin-and-range geology, the road following an arid valley down in to Kingman. Stop. Breathe.

7. Kingman to Vegas. Back on the 40 again, follow this through town to 93. As soon as you get off the interstate on 93, stop and get gas. And start taking clothes off, because it is fixing to get hot. You have two options. One is to follow 93 up to the Hoover Dam; the other is to peel off on 68 toward Laughlin. The dam is cool and all, but the traffic sucks and the path through Laughlin is, IMO, the better ride. 68 takes you across a range with great rock formations, and then drops you down to the Colorado River. At this point, you have gone from some 8000 feet in Flag to sea level. There's decent pitch blackjack in Laughlin. Turn right on 163, cross the ridge, and then turn right on 95. If you've been playing Fallout: Vegas, you will feel right at home! 95 will take you north though the valley. Don't speed. This highway is hot like an oven. You won't believe that you can perceive -- and appreciate -- a drop in temp from 100 to 95 as you summit the slight rise into Searchlight. Terrible's is an interesting place to stop for gas and to chat up other bikers. From here, you will roll across the desert toward Boulder City and Vegas. The sun will probably be getting low right about now, and this will bring out the subtle colors of the Mojave desert. This is big country -- huge country. Set your throttle lock and enjoy the desert vistas spotted with Joshua trees. You will see the lights of a casino at the head of the valley; this marks Railroad Pass. Cross this pass and the lights of the city will be laid out before you. 95 turns into the 515 freeway. God help you if you arrive during rush hour. Here's the drill. Follow 515 to 215, heading toward McCarran airport. Probably best to exit on Paradise right (north). That will take you right to the Hard Rock, and it's easy enough to turn left on Trop (for the MGM), Harmon (Planet Ho, Paris) or Flamingo (Bellagio, Caesars', and via Koval to Venetian). If you miss that exit, just cowboy up and merge north on 15, you will see the strip hotels on your right, and you will probably live to see them up close. Riding down the strip is a bit overrated because of the traffic, unless you just have to show off your un-beemishly loud pipes. I figure you should consider staying at one of two places: the Hard Rock, where you can stroll through the lobby in your gear and fit right in; or, go for the perfect cognitive dissonance and stay at the Venetian. Fun: pull up to valet parking at the Venetian leathered up and stinking of the road, and check the look on the valet's face. Priceless! (Truth is, Venetian has excellent motorcycle parking that's secure and convenient to the rooms and the casino).

It's funny, that I only really feel at home on the open highway. I long for the road, and miss it when I've been away too long. This is often the ride I take when I need to go home again.