CAN-bus and the power socket.
Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 2:17 am
Riding the bike now means I always wear the Widder electric vest. What I found out is that if the vest is plugged in and turned on before the engine is started there's a good chance the vest will not heat up. This never happens from a cold start because the engine is started before I throw a leg over the seat.. With a still hot engine after a stop I mount the bike, plug in the vest and start it up to leave immediately. Then I realize the vest is NOT working and a slew of angry words accompany manual checks of the switch position, plug in being fully snapped in, and the cord plug connection to the vest. I chalk it up to some hidden electrical connection failure and plan to fix it when I get home. When I do get to test it in the garage with a battery charger, the cord's + and - wires individually on an end-2-end plug test carry a 2 amp short circuit despite wiggling and tugging on the wire it's full length. The cord plugged into the vest shows on the charger ampmeter it's working and I soon feel the heat. The cord/switch/vest test OK and work perfectly while being physically stressed. I am a little stumped.
Some days later, the same no-heat failure after an engine stop happens again but I have one more stop to make before going home. After the stop, the vest power switch is turned off until I start the bike and when I turn it on I see the LED voltmeter respond to the extra load . . . it's working! Then it dawns on me what is causing the vest heat failure. The CAN-bus monitoring the power socket sees the 60 Watt load on the socket as soon as the key on and starter are activated and it thinks there is a weak short in the power socket wiring or socket itself so it cuts off the power to the socket. It all fits now. I take back all those harsh words I thought and muttered about my absolutely marvelous 10+ year old Widder vest.
When I very soon have the body work off to add on the Battery Tender power pigtail I am going to rewire the power socket so it's powered by the home-made key on power system. The advantage gained, besides no longer relying on the CAN-bus system is that the vest will go off immediately as I turn the key off. As it is now, the vest stays on a minute after engine shut off if it's not disconnected or switched off.
Note to all heated clothing users; start the engine before you plug in or turn on your 12V heated garments.
Some days later, the same no-heat failure after an engine stop happens again but I have one more stop to make before going home. After the stop, the vest power switch is turned off until I start the bike and when I turn it on I see the LED voltmeter respond to the extra load . . . it's working! Then it dawns on me what is causing the vest heat failure. The CAN-bus monitoring the power socket sees the 60 Watt load on the socket as soon as the key on and starter are activated and it thinks there is a weak short in the power socket wiring or socket itself so it cuts off the power to the socket. It all fits now. I take back all those harsh words I thought and muttered about my absolutely marvelous 10+ year old Widder vest.
When I very soon have the body work off to add on the Battery Tender power pigtail I am going to rewire the power socket so it's powered by the home-made key on power system. The advantage gained, besides no longer relying on the CAN-bus system is that the vest will go off immediately as I turn the key off. As it is now, the vest stays on a minute after engine shut off if it's not disconnected or switched off.
Note to all heated clothing users; start the engine before you plug in or turn on your 12V heated garments.