"The 1150R riding position never bothered me, though the factory seat got to me after awhile; but how are the ergos on the F800 compared to the 1150 when used for touring, and riding through stop and go traffic and such not?"
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The seat on my F800ST bothers me less after 1 hour than the 1150R's seat did, maybe because the seat is different or I am sitting less upright. You're still better to stop once per hour just to "stretch your legs", a rule that should apply to using even the most comfortable car seat.
Initially I thought I would need barbacks to get a more upright seating position, but after riding it a while the new lean over seemed to have been minimized by just hugging the "tank", with my arms straight out. Presto . . . I'm almost upright. Being 6'2" your longer arms may put you upright. Also, the F800S model you rode has really low bars . . . and that's prolly why it did not sell well, being a minimalist standard style bike with sportbike handlebars. What were they thinking??
In stop-n-go traffic The ST's light curb weight, light clutch pull and precise EFI work together so well that you can concentrate on just about anything else. It's lightweight handling, unlike the R1150R, makes it less dramatic to do low speed maneuvers. The simple 1 component ABS system also is
NOT linked front/rear, making it always predictable. As a touring bike, any cruising speed is OK but 70+MPH against headwinds the airbox intake roar may require earplugs. Wind protection is good. It will also get near/over (depending on rider weight/size and if sidecases are on) 55 MPG cruising over 75 MPH, unless you're a lawless maniac.
The Good:
--It will not overheat in traffic.
--There is no "tip-over-torque" reaction if you hit the throttle in Neutral.
--It warms up quickly, attaining
full engine operating temp within 2--4 miles, even in Winter.
--It is virtually vibration free after break-in.
--The exhaust note is pleasant and loud enough to remain stock. No more sewing machine sounds.
--The styling is classy modern. The engineering is next gen, high tech, light weight minimalist. The front wheel spokes+disk mounting is exotic.
--Engine power band is sportbike thrilling.
--The STD instrumentation includes: Fuel and Engine Temp bar graphs, 2 tripmeters, Bright Flashing RedLine/Shift light, Digital Timer/StopWatch and (with a GS911 it is programmable) a time/mileage maintenance reminder.
--Permanent shiny metal, easy to access tire valve stems are stubby, screw into a front wheel spoke and the rear wheel rim.
--With easy riding it routinely gets 58--72 MPG (my actuals) on Regular grade (Chevron/Texaco) gasoline, usually 64--66. Those phenomenal MPG's are any high performance bike's most surprising/welcome asset.
--It requires less frequent 12K mile valve adjustments, with often no adjustment required for 3 clearance checks totalling 36,000 miles. Has less expensive routine maintenance:
NO scheduled TB synch,
No fuses,
No separate Transmission and FD gear oils.
--The easily accessible clutch parts, including the cable release cam, release bearing and clutch hub/basket roller bearings all run in the engine oil.
--The throttle response and steady state smoothness is absolutely flawless whenever the engine is running.
--You
NEVER have to add oil between changes, even during the break-in. I no longer check it.
--Always (quietly!) starts after 3 or 4 compression strokes, computer controlled idles perfect whatever the ambient temps are and sounds great doing so.
--The starter makes a low whirring sound of precision fine tooth gears -not- that explosive big gear mash roar that can/will scare close bystanders.
--On Hi beam the low beam still stays on, giving you 2x the lighting area coverage.
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The whole (Hi/Low) headlight assembly dips down with a small "flip" lever to compensate for the passenger's weight -AND- You can also quickly adjust the height of the beam with your thumb and index finger on the knurled knob in the middle of that flip lever. No Tools needed!
--The rear brake caliper stays mounted/undisturbed when you remove the rear wheel's 5 small/short Torx head lug bolts.
--Belt drive is clean, quiet, lightweight, efficient, zero maintenance and absolutely lash free.
--Narrow bike width is less greedy with garage space.
--Maintenance free battery under tank panel.
--Plastic fuel tank captured by the rear frame, under the seat is
never removed.
--Right rear panel flip fuelcap is pretty cool looking by its' unconventional location and easy to fill if you use a tankbag on the side or centerstand.
--Digital ignition key makes bike useless if stolen and it cannot be started without it.
--Luckily, because of the 2 bulb high beam and multi lens reflectors, extra lights are not really needed.
--It's an excellent cold weather ride!
--With Metzeler Z-6 Interact tires and simple front suspension upgrades it is a fun filled, invincible racebike.
The Bad:
--There is almost zero room under the seat.
--MSRP is kind'a steep for an 800cc sport touring bike.
--BMW side cases, IMO, suck. Too wide, sorta ugly, clumsy operation and too expensive. A $118 Givi tail trunk solved that for me, in retirement.
--Large fuel filter inside fuel tank requires a $pecial tool, which I purchased after overcoming the BMW dealer's refusal to sell it to me, or a creative tool invention to remove/replace the top threaded ring. AFAIK, NO ONE has ever mentioned the fuel filter needs to be replaced, but it does.
--No tool kit, just a phillips/Torx screwdriver snapped into the seat's underside that remove the body panels.
--The runs-in-oil permanent magnet alternator has 400Watts, the R1150R had a powerful, super reliable, solid state excited field, car type external 700W alternator.
--Fork dive under braking and softness in corners
noticeable after years of acclimation to riding the TeleLever Boxer. I have adapted to what was normal for my 11 previous bikes.
--The rearward located centerstand pivot does not balance the bike, so a rear rack 38lb counterweight or (less safe) engine jack is needed for front wheel removal.
--Changing 2 spark plugs requires at least 26 bodywork screws for 3 body panels + 2 mirrors, and 2connectors+4hoses+2clamps+2StikCoils associated with the battery and airbox to be removed for access.
--A valve adjustment requires removals the same as for sparkplugs + the lower panels and the radiator unbolted/moved away. When shims are needed you'll need someone experienced in performing camshaft removal/installation for shim changes -or- a trip to the BMW dealer.
That's it. It's so good that I'm completely satisfied spending the $9k "upgrade" and
because of the way I ride don't even think about
ever going back to a
heavy, at home cruising 75MPH Boxer motored bike again.
EDIT: For fuel filter, pump removal tool and enhanced updates.
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