Sinks Canyon .... Wyoming

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GypsyRR
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Sinks Canyon .... Wyoming

Post by GypsyRR »

I spent a month in the area of Dubois, Wyoming this summer; camping, riding, and mostly fishing. On one of my rides I rode to Sinks Canyon, a geological oddity that I've wanted to see ever since I heard about it 3-4 years ago.

The location of Sinks Canyon State Park is about 6 miles southwest of Lander, Wyoming. The Middle Fork of the Popo Agie River flows through the park. (you'll never guess how to pronounce the name of that river). The Popo Agie River flows into a limestone cavern (the "sinks") and then re-emerges 1/4 mile down the road at what is called the "rise". The strange thing is that it takes this powerful river TWO HOURS to travel 1/4 mile. Geologists don't know the exact route of the underground passage the water takes, but they used dye tests to determine the amount of time it takes the water to travel the short distance. And another interesting thing is that more water rises at the Rise than actually flows into the Sink.

The additional interesting thing is that at the 'rise' there are schools of trout that just hang out there. Of course, having a machine that dispenses fish food for 25 cents probably helps that, but they were hanging out there before the fish food was being tossed over the railing. They get huge too! THAT may be due to the fish food. The gathering of huge trout interested me, so I had to take a ride to go see these things.

Unfortunately, the ride from Dubois, Wyoming (where I spent about a month fishing, camping, riding, thinking, re-evaluating life, decompressing) to Lander and Sinks Canyon was not the most exciting ride. But..... even without twisties, it still beats Houston heat and boring city roads. So here we go:

This is Dubois, Wyoming (my favorite place in the west) Population.... maybe 980?? I can't remember.

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And this is where I stayed when I wanted a shower and a real bed for a couple of nights instead of camping. However, the owner and I became such good friends that she gave me a rate I could not refuse for the last week of my stay, so I ended up staying here a total of 11 nights out of the month. This is the Branding Iron Inn in Dubois.

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When I woke for my 80 mile ride to Sinks Canyon, the temperature was only 43. That's kind of cold for this south coast of Texas flatlander, so I waited till it got above 53 degrees. Still.... I wore all my gear, plus thermals, and a wind blocking jacket under my riding jacket. I'm such a wimp!


My Route: (nothing very exciting until you get past the Sinks)

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Through Dubois, south past the Badlands and on to Crowheart in Indian territory first (Shoshone/Arapahoe Reservation)

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(The geography in this area is really so diverse, it always amazes me)

On the reservation:

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And then I came to Crowheart Butte:

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It Says: In March 1866, a battle was fought in this vicinity between Shoshone and Bannock Indians on one side and Crow Indians on the other.
The contest was waged for the supremacy of hunting grounds in the Wind River basin. Crowheart Butte was so named because the victorious Washakie, Chief of the Shoshones displayed a Crow Indian's heart on his lance at the war dance after the battle. The major portion of the battle was fought near Black Mountain several miles to the north.
Washakie in his youth and middle age was a very mighty warrior. He was a wise chief and friendly to the white people. No white man's scalp hung in this chief's teepee.
Last edited by GypsyRR on Wed Aug 24, 2011 7:49 am, edited 1 time in total.
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On to Sinks Canyon

Post by GypsyRR »

I didn't want to be in Sinks Canyon at the hottest part of the day, so I passed through Lander pretty quickly, just stopping for a coke. Then on to Sinks Canyon
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This is the Popo Agie River, and it's running very high this time of year. Wyoming was still having a lot of snow melt and high water while I was there in Mid July- Mid August.

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And this is where it flows into the cavern and DISAPPEARS!!!! :shock:

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TWO HOURS later, it reappears here.
The perspective is hard to capture by camera here. I was standing on a boardwalk about 50' above the water. The water is coming out of the rocks in the left of the photo. Those are rainbow and brown trout gathering along the sandbar. They range from about 16"-25" in my estimation. (no fishing allowed). This is also where the fish food dispenser (.25 cents) is located. It was crowded. The fish were in a feeding frenzy anytime a little sweaty palm opened over the railing!


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Here is a shot looking down the Popo Agie River from the same boardwalk/overlook. You can still see large trout along the sandbar in this photo (bottom right).

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This gives you a little more perspective with the canyon walls and the "rise" at the bottom

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Yes, those are trout at the bottom of that photo with the cliffs looming above them.

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All that was free. No charge to come into Sinks Canyon. If you decided to camp, you'd have to pay a fee unless you dispersed camped. Wyoming is GREAT!

I talked to the nice young handsome ranger in the information center and he told me that the road was paved only a few more miles after Sinks Canyon, but that it was a beautiful ride. Actually, had I been on my XT250 and not restricted by time and weather, I think I would have taken the road all the way to Atlantic City south of Lander because the road looks great. But since I was on my BMW and wanted to be back before dark, I went only as far as the pavement. I think the BMW would have done fine, but I didn't want to be riding through 'mule deer territory' at night. So I went to the end of the pavement and turned around. But those last miles of pavement were nice and TWISTY!!
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Re: Sinks Canyon .... Wyoming

Post by GypsyRR »

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And then it was over .... I was headed out of Sinks Canyon with a plan to go through downtown Lander and then downtown Riverton before heading back to Dubois.

Looking down on the road out of Sinks Canyon

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Back through Lander, WY. Here is the GrandTheater in downtown Lander, WY

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On to Riverton, WY.

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Downtown Riverton.... The Acme Theater. I needed to stop in Riverton at a store for some stuff I could not find in Lander or Dubois. I suppose Riverton is a larger town than the other two. Personally, between the two (Lander and Riverton), I could easily choose Lander as my favorite. Lander reminded me a lot of Canon City, CO (minus the prisons). Riverton reminded me of an Indian Reservation town; not that there is anything wrong with that...... It's just different. :?


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I picked up the items I needed and headed home. But first.......

When I was stopped for gas in Riverton, there was a Harley Sportster at the pump across from me. Out of the corner of my eye, I noticed a pink helmet and pink/white shirt, so I looked up. Sure enough.... a woman rider. I said "hi", which opened up the door for us to exchange a few kind words. Then, coming out of the convenience store, there was this big ol' guy; helmet in hand, Harley garb..... he walked toward the lady with the Sportster. I assumed he was driving the bike and she was just gassing it up for him. Before they had loaded up, I was on my way back to Dubois. There is a nice Rest Stop between the cut off for Lander and Dubois, so I pulled in there. I was there for only a few minutes, before the Sportster from Riverton came rolling up. The lady I had been talking to was the driver. The big ol' guy in the Harley garb was the passenger... :shock: Now there's something you don't see everyday...... not that there's anything wrong with that. I just had never seen it. So we started talking..... and it turns out that he had just had a knee replacement. He wasn't ready to ride again, but enjoyed bikes so much that he was willing to ride as a pillion behind his girlfriend. He was retired Army Special Forces and had served in Vietnam. She.... well, I'm not sure what she did, but this was her second Harley. She had done a coast to coast ride and spent some time in Washington D.C. and then moved to Riverton. They were new to Riverton and were out exploring their new area and so they were on their way to Dubois. Since I was headed back there as well, I offered to buy them dinner, but they refused saying they planned to be back in Riverton before nightfall (nightfall in that part of Wyoming in the summer is about 9:00 pm., btw...... which works great for riding and fishing. ) After a friendly and informative conversation, we parted and I headed on in to Dubois.

Back to Dubois

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Back through the Badlands with the sun about to set

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And back to my room at The Branding Iron Inn in Dubois, Wy before the rain.


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Last edited by GypsyRR on Wed Aug 31, 2011 8:15 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Sinks Canyon .... Wyoming

Post by Dr. Strangelove »

Another RR from Kristi!

WOOT!

very nice...you've been sort of away too long, but it still looks like you're being productive... and engendering envy.
you'd have to pay a fee unless you dispersed camped
what is dispersed camping?

The pix were great as usual, as was the text. Especially noticed the shots of the movie theaters. I have been shooting them on my travels also. Some fine buildings there.

Thanks, and I hope this finds you well.

John
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Re: Sinks Canyon .... Wyoming

Post by GypsyRR »

Thanks John.

Dispersed camping is just basically camping in the National Forests outside of developed campgrounds. You just find a spot you like, and you can camp there. Generally there are some basic rules you are suppose to follow, but may vary from one place to another. For instance, some places require you to camp in 'designated' camp spots. There will either be a sign or sometimes just a campfire ring. And there are generally rules about how far from a water source or road you must camp. Since it is not a developed campground, you have to provide your own water, privacy, 'toilet', and carry out your trash. But.... it's free and much more private than a developed campground.

I did a lot more than just this one ride while I was gone, but the rest of it was mostly fishing and camping or riding in dirt so not really Ride Report material for the BMW. But I had a blast!
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Re: Sinks Canyon .... Wyoming

Post by Dr. Strangelove »

a followup question, when you have time.

Are these campsites that are listed in the iPhone app "campwhere" or whatever it's called? I think somewhere along the line I've seen you refer to that as a good program.
Are they sometimes called "primitive camping" or is that just a description of camping without "services" of any sort? Put another way, is "dispersed" a proper term?

thanks

J
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Re: Sinks Canyon .... Wyoming

Post by sjbmw »

Awesome report, thank you.
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Re: Sinks Canyon .... Wyoming

Post by GypsyRR »

Dr. Strangelove wrote:a followup question, when you have time.

Are these campsites that are listed in the iPhone app "campwhere" or whatever it's called? I think somewhere along the line I've seen you refer to that as a good program.
Are they sometimes called "primitive camping" or is that just a description of camping without "services" of any sort? Put another way, is "dispersed" a proper term?

thanks

J
The dispersed camping sites are typically not listed in the iPhone App called Campwhere. Campwhere, however, does show you where the National Forests are located.

I've heard the word "dispersed" camping used in situations where there are developed campgrounds available, but the opportunity to camp outside of the campground is available as well. I think primitive camping is just a word to describe that kind of camping: no facilities and no improvements typically. Often you will find a fire ring already made by previous campers and that's about all.

You can camp just about anywhere in most National Forests. You just have to know the rules, which is why I usually always frequent the closest Ranger Station when I'm going to camp. Besides, the ranger stations have good maps and really cool stuff displayed usually too. The Rangers can tell you various rules for the national forest you are in, and they will also let you know about any permits that might be required. For instance, in the Shoshone NF where I spent most of my time, you have to have an ORV permit to ride on certain roads. They will also let you know about any areas that are closed. I ran into that on my trip this summer too. My favorite spot, Double Cabin, was closed because of the Norton Point Wildfire that erupted (lightening strike) the same day I arrived. I was able to get up there before the fire got so bad that roads were closed, but I was not allowed to fish or camp there. They suggested I go back down the road about 10 miles to a developed campground. While up at the fire though, I noticed some hikers heading into the wilderness away from the fire, but into a canyon that would have been a choke point if the fire jumped the river again. I was able to notify the rangers, and they sent in someone to get the hikers out. That was my one heroine act during my summer. :badgrin:

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Re: Sinks Canyon .... Wyoming

Post by Brezd »

I have been to Dubois! I worked a summer out in Yellowstone right after High School. Hit a bull moose with my brothers Ford Fiesta (half the size of the Moose!). After leaving Yellowstone on our way to Boulder, we saw a 15 foot fiberglass moose standing infront of the "Grub-N-Tub", combination laundramat and diner. Had to stop!
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Re: Sinks Canyon .... Wyoming

Post by mnnden »

Great Report!!! & Wonderful pictures!!!, It is now on my bucket list as to places to go, Thanks for taking the time to share. Mnn
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Re: Sinks Canyon .... Wyoming

Post by Arbreacames »

Congrats for a great ride report and your characteristically stunning photography. John is right, I am envious on both counts!
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Re: Sinks Canyon .... Wyoming

Post by GypsyRR »

Thanks for reading and your kind comments guys. I had a great time and it was so nice to be away from this south Texas heat for a while.

Within a 30 mile radius of Dubois there are some very beautiful places for fishing and riding (mostly dirt, but very possible for the R1150R).
Here's a sample of the various places all around Dubois, Wyoming:

Overlooking the Wind River Valley
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Road to Bog Lake

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Bog Lake

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East Fork of the Wind River
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Brooks Lake
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Re: Sinks Canyon .... Wyoming

Post by Buckster »

Simply awesome pics and ride report! I have been wanting to see the Badlands....now I want to see them more! Thanks for sharing, Christie. Stunning photos! A++++
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Re: Sinks Canyon .... Wyoming

Post by BluegrassPicker »

Image[/quote]

wow nice shot!
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Re: Sinks Canyon .... Wyoming

Post by Sunbeemer »

Amazing place amazingly photographed! Your Brooks Lake picture is like Renaissance art the way it moves the eye...
Glad you're back and posting fascinating and beautifully illustrated ride reports for us again!
Thanks. =D> =D> =D> =D> =D>
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Re: Sinks Canyon .... Wyoming

Post by CycleRob »

Great pics and narrative, as always. I saved 22 of those pics in my photo archive.

Seeing the Texas fires burning over a Texas wide area has me concerned it will affect Ms Kristy's residence. Hope you are OK . . . . last post was almost 4 days ago.

The news said an area the size of Connecticut has already burned, the fires killed 4 people and has destroyed over 1,000 homes!! Some fires are zero percent contained (out of control).

As if the long term statewide severe drought wasn't enough bad luck. :cry:
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Re: Sinks Canyon .... Wyoming

Post by angellr »

CycleRob wrote:Great pics and narrative, as always. I saved 22 of those pics in my photo archive.

Seeing the Texas fires burning over a Texas wide area has me concerned it will affect Ms Kristy's residence. Hope you are OK . . . . last post was almost 4 days ago.

The news said an area the size of Connecticut has already burned, the fires killed 4 people and has destroyed over 1,000 homes!! Some fires are zero percent contained (out of control).

As if the long term statewide severe drought wasn't enough bad luck. :cry:
Amen, Rob! Hoping Ms. Kristy is safe and OK.
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Re: Sinks Canyon .... Wyoming

Post by GypsyRR »

I'm safe...... for now. There is a fire raging about 15-20 miles north of me. It started Monday afternoon and was almost 50% contained by Wednesday morning, but it flared up again in the afternoon and jumped the next major road south, reaching closer to my home and causing more evacuations. As of today, the evacuation line is 10 miles north of me. Since Monday 125 homes have been lost in that fire and about 9,000 acres. But I think they will get the fire burning near me controlled today if the wind will die down and stay down.

Unfortunately, there are fires like this one and much larger that are burning all over the state, fueled by the record setting drought that we are STILL experiencing.

Some Texas Forest Service stats I read yesterday: Just in the past 7 days, TEXAS Forest Service has responded to about 175 new fires with approximately 140,000 acres burned. In fact, 35% of all US fires have been in Texas this year and 50% of all acreage burned in the US this year has been in Texas, with about 4000 homes lost and thousands of acres of crops and ranch land burned up. Total wildfires and acres burned in Texas this year: 21,000 wildfires and 3,601,775 acres.
That's just the numbers from wildfires. The number of crops and livestock lost because of the drought which fuels these fires is just as staggering.


Thank you again for thinking of me CycleRob and Angellr. I'm keeping alert so I know when to leave, if I have to. The smoke may drive me out even if the fire doesn't. It's getting pretty thick today.

This is the area where I go riding, if I want to just get the bike out for a while.
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Re: Sinks Canyon .... Wyoming

Post by BMWEW1 »

simply beautiful, tnx!
GypsyRR wrote: Image
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Re: Sinks Canyon .... Wyoming

Post by Faylo »

Nice report and beautiful pictures! You have really brought out the wanderlust in me. I have several trip plans made for out west and I'll have to look in to working this area in. But then again, at this point, those trips are simply pipe dreams.

Thanks!
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