Rear Brake Rotor Replacement ('04 R1150R ABS)

[Cohiba54]

Has anyone replaced their rear rotor?
Did you go stock or aftermarket?
Price and from who?
Is there a trick to removal or install?

[towerworker]

I replaced mine ('04 w/abs) 5 years ago. I found a used one locally. I think I paid $50 for it. Pretty straightforward job, be sure to properly re-torque the hardware.

[Cohiba54]

Pretty straightforward job, be sure to properly re-torque the hardware.

I've never replaced a disk but a buddy at work (mostly Jap bikes) to me that it was a pita braking loose the mounting bolts on the ones he's done. Got ya covered on re-torque. So there's no loctite or such to worry worry bout or have to have a heat gun to heat up the bolts?

What about aftermarket disk are they worth the dollar as far as ware? I wanted to go with EBC pads for stronger braking but didn't want to ruin stock disk. Your thoughts on that?

[towerworker]

I didn't have to heat mine as I recall, but I do remember spraying them first with penetrating oil just as a precaution. No problem breaking them loose. I have no experience with aftermarket brake disks so no advice there. I will mention this though---I went thru 2 sets of rear pads within 20K before I realized I was braking improperly. This was my first bike with ABS and I was still applying rear brake first at every stop along with front a split second later. I think I was applying too much overall rear brake since the ABS pump was applying brake pressure as well. I had to learn to keep my foot off the rear brake pedal and let the linked system do it's job. Rear pads are wearing normally now. I have tried to go with organic pads whenever possible for the reason you specified.....trying to help the rotor last longer. You'll be hard pressed to make your brakes anymore powerful than they are. They're pretty hard to improve on.

[sweatmark]

Yes, the OE fasteners have thread lock compound, and a heat gun helps with rotor removal.

The R1150** wheels are notoriously soft. That means rim damage caused by potholes, and the potential for stripped threads when installing rotors. I bought a second set of wheels - used parts - for trackday tires, and stripped out a rear brake disc mount boss when installing new rotor. Corrosion and weak threads were noted in all five bosses, so I installed Heli-Coils in all positions.

[riceburner]

I've currently got a solid rear disc (no drilled holes) - can't remember who from or what manufacture - but it seems to be lasting ok. Rear brakes should get a slightly easier life so go with what works.

Have to admit I've gone off EBC stuff since I had some bad experiences several years ago - basically the discs and pads just didn't last very long - these days I prefer to buy OE stuff where possible despite the extra expense.

[Cohiba54]

Guys thanks for all the input.
I cheeped out 55 bks and went with a good used rotor from "PinWall Cycle Parts"

Now for brake pads there I'll stick with OEM but which one should I go with.
OEM found at http://search.ascycles.com/search#w=r11 ... rake%20pad
I see ABS specific but what is the difference between the 3 on the link?

[towerworker]

The two on the right (BMW OEM) are sintered metal pads. Original equipment. The $67 set are "organic" pads which have no metal embedded in the pads. Supposedly easier on the rotor but will not last as long.

Wayne

[JayTee]

This is too late for the OP but I have used EBC rear rotor and found nothing wrong with it. Seems to be more durable than the BMW one. I am using TRW-Lucas organic brake pads in the rear brake, they may not have the best stopping power nor durability but they do not wear the rotor as quickly as the sintered pads.

-JayTee