I'm back - or how to visit a LOT of countries in Europe

[deilenberger]

NOTE: Some of this is a repost from another forum.. some is new for this forum... chances are you aren't on the other forum (it's a BMW car forum with a motorcycle subforum I started..) so it will all be new to you.

I believe I mentioned plans to take a long tour of Europe this fall.. and figured I'd do a quick update.

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I'm back!

4,200 KM later. No problems, no near misses, a great trip. Learned lots of things, met a bunch of great people, had a blast.

Countries visited (in order - some were multiple times):

• Germany (Dusseldorf to pick up the bikes)
• Czech Republic (Prague because I always wanted to see "The Castle"..)
• Austria (because it was on our route)
• Germany (to Munich for BMW Welt and BMW Museum)
• Switzerland (because it was on the route and there were some passes to be attended to..)
• Lichtenstein (just because - it's smaller than Rhode Island, a lot smaller..)
• Italy along the Mediterranean (because it's really really nice)
• Monaco - because it's even smaller than Lichtenstein
• France along the Mediterranean (ditto on the reason)
• Was about to cross into Spain to visit Barcelona when my friend realized he'd lost his passport, so we stayed in France and visited the US Embassy in Marseilles so he could get a new one. This lost us a full day, so we never got to Spain)
• Went back up the center wine country in France
• Split up for 2 days because we had different interests - and we were sick of each other. I went to Switzerland again and visited a friend, he went and did a pass in the Dolomites.
• Got back together in Germany on the Rhine
• Headed north via France and Luxembourg - stayed there just so we can say we did
• Back to Dusseldorf to turn in the bikes.

Lots more to tell and lots of pics to come. Took about 10-12 hours of video, but I haven't found one with one of the passes in it - yet. I did find a neat one showing why if you have a tunnel phobia you shouldn't ride in Europe (luckily I don't..)

BTW - I felt MUCH safer riding in Europe - even in the middle of rush hour in packed traffic (mix of cars/trucks/motorcycles/mopeds/scooters/bicycles) on wet cobblestone streets with streetcar tracks - then I did today on a quick ride over to a friends house about 10 miles away. It's amazing how dumb American drivers are.

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Some R1200R specific stuff:

We rented 3 R1200R's from a shop outside Dusseldorf. We got a deal that was super - 1,500E for 16-17 days of rental, unlimited KM, and insurance that covered everything except a total loss - in that case our liability would have been about $3,000. 1,500E is about $2,100 USD. The shop deals in used bikes, the owner is a friend of one of the people on the ride, and he was delighted to rent us the bikes. When we returned them he was putting them up for sale. The three R1200Rs were from 2008-2010 models. Mine was the most advanced - it had ESA, DTC and the full on-board computer and TMP system. One was equipped as mine at home is - ABS and OBC. The other was just ABS - no OBC, nothing else. All came with bags and a tail-case, and a tankbag. They all had the "sport" instrument protection screen.. (ie - very little protection.) All had been serviced, had new or newish tires, had new or newish brakes and full tanks of fuel.

The shop owner and his wife were gracious hosts - he picked us up at the airport (about 40km from his shop), fed us breakfast the day we arrived, and went to dinner with us the day we turned in the bikes. All in all - I'd highly recommend them. The prices were about 30-40% less than any other rental agency I could find for R1200R's and the service was delightful. I'm happy to now call them my friends.

The R1200R's showed themselves to be capable and very suitable for this sort of ride. The small shield limited our top speeds a bit on the Autobahn to 150KmPH - which is roughly 100MPH. They were quite happy cruising at 120-130KmPH for hours at a time, and were remarkably stable in some high crosswinds (there are windsocks in places along the Autobahn to warn of the winds.)

I had asked for the low seat for my R1200R - and with it - it wasn't a problem to handle the bike (my bike at home has slightly lowered suspension.) The ESA actually was quite useful.. I could set the damping on the fly. On the Autobahn setting it to soft worked fine and helped avoid butt pain, on most twisties normal works just fine, extreme twisties sport seemed to tighten things up nicely. I didn't use the preload adjustment, I set it for 1 helmet + luggage and that seemed fine. The DTC kicked in once that I felt on a lane marker in the rain - otherwise I never knew it was there.

The quality of the pavement in Germany generally meant that I could ride an entire day butt-pain free.. not so much in Italy or France (parts of the French high-speed highway looks like it's maintained by NJ-DOT..) I brought my air-cushion, but never felt it necessary to put it on. I did bring grip puppies to put on the bike and they worked well. Our usual riding day started about 9-9:30AM and ended by 5PM usually (a few days ran later.) My bike experienced problems starting a few times, until I tried starting it with the headlight on low, the heated grips off, and my Gerbing jacket-liner off.. then it started every time. I suspect the battery might be nearing it's end.

We rode in temps from 13C to 28C - and in some very wet weather and as long we were geared up properly were quite comfortable (I can report that the new BMW gloves I got are waterproof as promised and my BMW boots - with a LOT of miles on them - continue to be waterproof.)

Great trip.. great people.. great time and memories. If you can manage it - do it. You're never promised tomorrow.. we're starting to discuss our next trip. Barcelona is on the list as are Belgium, Netherlands and perhaps a bit of Sweden.

[xprof]

Yay Don, totally inspiring! We all should do it at least once!

[peels]

Oh man, sounds like the trip of a lifetime!!!

My best friend is overseas right now. In the UK for work first, I believe at the moment, just about to start a ride across romania. On BMW 800's or 650's.

I am sickeningly jealous.

But it was more time and $ than I had to spare right now, he was able to write off a trip there for his work. lol I was not so lucky....

[dbrick]

Glad you had a fine time, Don. It is truly different (and enjoyable!) to ride in that environment.

[Steve H.]

Hi,Don!
When I come to Canada,I have to do my Canadian driver licence. European driver licence is not valid here in Big country like Canada.That is senceles.I know first aid,traffic lows,and a lot more than American drivers.Licenced here as ABM-Z driver.I can drive enithing moving on the road.So....Got to prove that I am as dumb as average north American driver...???Well...No more comments.And yes north American drivers are dumb,scince they are doing amasingly dumb moves in the traffic.

Brgds,Steve H.

[Steve H.]

yes, you just opened my eyes.I did NOT start this tread But.....it is worth to take a deeper look in to it.My personal experience:a lady putting on make up while she driving,a man reading newspepers on the the stearing wheel spreded.These things where happened with me.Unbeleived,but thrroug.

[peels]

dumb drivers, heh?

Ive seen some pretty dumb stuff come from Europe. LOL so dont go thinking youre special.

but, I agree, though I don't think its limited to N. America. Drivers are preoccupied with so much other garbage these days, most driving becomes secondary. Its these folks we must watch out for.

Iv'e seen the reading newspaper phenomenon...and more times than I care to admit. Also, "the facebook junkie" , driving erratically...I roll up next to them, phone on top of the steering wheel... I usually give them a not-so-friendly gesture, then crank the throttle to get away from the scene ASAP

[dbyker]

Welcome back Don. Well done, way to live the dream.
Dave

[Steve H.]

Yes, Peels!
I agree,but driving a truck limited to 65mph (Ontarian law)and passing a care traveling 63-64 mph going to take a while.People behind you are getting more than interested "why is this truck driver f....with us"?? They don't know the limitations.Thanks to Ontarian a...hole law,we truck drivers got to eat up all that sh...That simple.

[Steve H.]

Another HI Peels!
Well,Iam European.Living 25 years in Canada,traveling 120,000mls through USA/year.Dont you think I can see American drivers behewing on the road???? Please conwict me if I am wrong??!!If you are right...proov it!!!!!

[MTBeemer]

Try riding or driving in an Italian city. The word comfortable will not be on your mind.

I once drove a Dodge Power Wagon pick-up throough Milan. They have many traffic circles and there seem to be no lanes or rules when passing using them. It was like trying to navigate a Nimitz class carrier through an immense small boat regata. Just point your bow to where you want to go, look straight ahead and pay no heed to whatever carnage ensues.

[Steve H.]

Yes MT beemer! European cityes areOLD that wy streets are narrow,not build for todays traffic.If you are able to hendel those conditions,you are having a great time.Challenge.Do it once, you will see.Only the bikers like Don E.or other high experienced drivers will managed it.Beleive,Iknow what I am talking about.I am coming from there.

[peels]

LOL "steve"

No I agree. I was just offended by the truth

driving in this country (for most people) seems to have become a god given right, as opposed to years back, it was a privilege. Thats the way it was for me.

nobody knows how their car works, or why they do what they do... they just do what they do, because a book told them. The rest of the time is spent making phone calls, eating doing makeup...Everyone is in a hellfired hurry. Hell just today....We live in a small town, I drop both my boys off at their school. One of them I'm across the street at his stop. THis morning, he gets out, and is nearly run over. Then the lady who almost hits him, she's VIOLENTLY pointing and yelling AT HIM. SERIOUSLY!? its elementary school, there's a stop sign and a crosswalk. RE-FRIGGIN-LAX! I saw you futzing with the radio, dont point fingers!

Iv'e become especially attuned to these zombie drivers, being a motorcyclist, since I am "uncaged" I watch closely. I ride this 1150 at least twice as much as any of the other bikes Ive owned.

MTBeemer, I would agree that european drivers are "better" just because of that scene you portrayed. THEY HAVE TO BE TO SURVIVE Also, I don't know a ton about european motoring, but I do know they expect more out of their drivers before licensing them. Could be mistaken though.... I think this is what makes them better (in my opinion) race drivers. World Rally especially, which is my favorite.

My friend is in Brighton, UK right now, he keeps commenting on the "go karts" everyone drives, and how small the parking spots are, and how many people have scooters or motorcycles..makes sense to me when there's that much congestion.

[MTBeemer]

I lived in Germany for 6 years and there is no doubt they are better drivers than here in N America. Better training to start with.

[Steve H.]

Yes,25 years ago I was supriced how easy I got my G licence here in Canada.In Europe I "pee blod"to get B licence=to G here.They are wery strict,and looking for anything just to find anything you are doing wrong.On the smallest mistake falling on test.Aniway,I do not fawour European drivers,just Northamerican drivers should aproch driving more seriously,and not that much"relaxited"way as they do.Becouse lifes of people depend on them.Seeing cars not stoping for scoolbus...my hair is coming up.What is more important than our childrens-grandsons life or healt??
brgds,Steve H.

[Dr. Strangelove]

Man, that sounds terrific.
How many days? Dates of travel? Flew into Frankfurt, train to Dusseldorf?
How far down did you get in Italy?
What languages do you speak?
small hotels?
Michelin maps?
Yellow roads? white roads?
Were autobahns, autoroutes, autostrassas used at backups and make-tracks roads?

That sounds wonderful though; glad you're safe and had a great time.

John
ps check pm

[deilenberger]

Man, that sounds terrific.
How many days? Dates of travel? Flew into Frankfurt, train to Dusseldorf?
How far down did you get in Italy?
What languages do you speak?
small hotels?
Michelin maps?
Yellow roads? white roads?
Were autobahns, autoroutes, autostrassas used at backups and make-tracks roads?

That sounds wonderful though; glad you're safe and had a great time.

John
ps check pm

Hi John..

I'll try to answer.

"How many days? Dates of travel? Flew into Frankfurt, train to Dusseldorf?" - 12 "riding days" on the bikes. In Prague, Munich and Marseilles we parked the bikes for a day and relied on mass-transit. Those were our "tourist" days. The rest of the trip we rode some distance (never less then 200km, usually around 300, some days up to 400) each day. Dates were from August 30th to Sept 14th when we turned in the bikes. 17 days for the trip if you include air-travel days.

We flew into Dusseldorf (direct flight from Newark NJ - the closest international airport to me anyway), the owner of the shop picked us up and drove us to his shop/home for breakfast then we started setting up the bikes (adding GPS wiring, heated gear wiring, in my case grip-puppies and a throttle-o-ring.) He then fed us dinner and drove us to the hotel he'd reserved for us. In the AM he picked us up (actually his lovely wife did), drove us to the shop, fed us another breakfast and we were off on the bikes. By then we'd pretty much gotten over the 6-hour difference jet-lag.

"How far down did you get in Italy?" We didn't go down the leg, we were going along the Mediterranean coast until eventually we entered into France. So it was mostly northern Italy. With a nice Mediterranean flavor.

"What languages do you speak?" English. We had one of the riders who was a native German speaker but he went off on his own and returned his bike after the 5th day. I don't think the trip met his requirements, and he has a business that continued to concern him and end up with him working late into the night doing phone calls and emails. After he left - we were two English only speaking riders. It wasn't a big problem. A lot of younger Europeans speak English. Usually if we were stuck with language problems someone would pop up and offer to help out. All our interactions with everyone we met, even if we couldn't communicate verbally (a crude sign language sometimes worked) were just fine. Don't let language stop you from making this trip.

"small hotels?" No, and this was due to a problem with data access. On trips in the US and Canada I would usually start looking for a place to stay at lunch time, knowing about how far we'd go for the day. I had no data plan for Europe so I turned data and phone off on my smartphone, and relied on WiFi when we could find it. That meant that we often had to rely on the hotels in my Zumo (Doofus), which tended to be bigger ones in bigger cities. They were not inexpensive, but for in-city hotels we found ones that weren't totally outrageous. The one exception was in Prague. I'd searched on the web for an inexpensive hotel with inside parking before I left the US and made not of the hotel. Doofus had the hotel and took us right to it. It cost us about $40/night for rooms that were actually small apartments meant for business use.

I tried solving the data plan problem (Verizon wanted $25/1MB for data) by buying a euro SIM card. I bought it in Switzerland, and all the instructions were in German, as was the website that was used to activate it. I never managed to activate it (if someone is going to Europe and wants it - ping me..) I needed a young multi-lingual waiter to help me do it, but about then my phone started having charging problems (it was the damn mini-USB cords) so I didn't want to muck about with it a lot. If you're going to Europe, buy the SIM card before going and make sure you can activate it, or see if you can work out a deal with your US provider for a cheaper data plan when roaming in Europe (some will, some won't..)

One other thing on lodging in Europe.. while in the US we typically would split a hotel room, and ask for one with two beds, in Europe there are two types of rooms available. A single - which has a smallish twin sized bed in it, or a double which has to of the small twins fastened together. Unless you're a couple you won't be comfortable splitting a room with another rider. We ended up taking individual rooms every night.

"Michelin maps?' Actually once our German speaker left us - we had no maps except Google maps on our tablets and cellphones at night when we had WiFi. I did have a full Europe Michelin map SWMBO gave me - but it was just way too big to use on a bike, so I left it with the luggage at the bike shop.

"Were autobahns, autoroutes, autostrassas used at backups and make-tracks roads?' Pretty much. There are boring parts of Europe, and after a while circles/round-a-bouts get old. So when we wanted to make time we'd switch the GPS to allowing highways and/or toll roads and take the big roads. I'd guess our riding was about 50/50 between highway and 2 lane back roads.

France is a lovely place to ride - if you don't mind a LOT of circles. Each village has a minimum of 2 - one entering/one leaving. A larger village has 3 - they add one in the middle of the village. As an alternative to traffic lights they actually work quite well - you never have to come to a complete stop, but you do always have to slow down for the circles. On one day doing about 300km of back roads in France we went through more than 100 circles. And village speeds can be quite slow (with good reason, small roads, sometimes cobblestone, sometimes houses right on the road through town) - 30km/ph in the villages was pretty common (about 20 MPH I believe.)

So for the distances we wanted to cover - the mix of highway/back-roads worked quite well.

MTBeemer: "Try riding or driving in an Italian city. The word comfortable will not be on your mind." - True to a great degree, it's somewhat like riding in NJ along the shore on a summer weekend when the road is full of distracted NYC drivers. The most interesting was Marselles France.. the traffic at rush hour (somehow we always ended up entering cities at rush hour) is a maelstrom of cars, trucks, motorcycles, mopeds, scooters, bicycles and pedestrians. Traffic lines, lights, lanes, rules in general all seem to be optional. If you want to obey them, fine, but most people ignore them (just like NJ..) Moped riders are particularly exciting - they think nothing of entering the opposing lane of traffic to wedge their way past a clot of cars, even when they're passing a bus on the right and have no chance of ducking back in, and they can't see what's coming in the lane they're moving into. I really expected to see an accident - but nope, it seems to work. No one honks their horns, no one cuts other people off to teach them a lesson, it seems like a cooperative effort to move the traffic along. It would never work in the US - someone would get pissed off.

It seemed the further south you go the more interesting the driving/riding became. All in all - I felt much more threatened riding to a friends shop here in the US when I got home then I ever did in Europe. He is about 8 miles from my house. I never had to toddle my horn to get anyones attention in Europe, they see and recognize motorcycles (I suspect possibly because a lot of them grow up riding scooters - and there are WAY more 2 wheeled vehicles in Europe then you'll ever see in the US.)

[hjsbmw]

Hi Don, nice to read your having good things to say about Germany. Judging by your writeup you missed my birth town by a hair, Ingolstadt, home of Audi, 70km north of Munich. You missed me by a hair too. I was there a week before you started your trip.

[peels]

No one honks their horns, no one cuts other people off to teach them a lesson, it seems like a cooperative effort to move the traffic along. It would never work in the US - someone would get pissed off.

Deilenberger....


this is soooo true, and soooo funny.

[deilenberger]

Ok.. a bit of an update, I've finally gotten the pictures sorted out.. next is uploading them to Photobucket so I can show them here (we apparently don't have room to store pictures on the server..) Be back when I've accomplished that little task.
OK - the bulk uploader is busily at work, so..

We arrive at Dusseldorf International Airport - around 7AM their time, 1AM our time. Having gotten no sleep on the airplane, we are a bit groggy.. we wander around - when I notice all the taxi's are Mercedes, a good use for a utility car.


We're picked up by the owner of MKM-Motorrader, Martin, and quickly (+200km/h on the Autobahn) taken to his shop which is outside Dortmund in a small suburb. Martin and Beate live in a lovely apartment right over the stop, something that's common in Germany for small business owners. The shop is located in an industrial park, and besides the showroom, it includes a fully equipped shop, and a warehouse across the street. Our bikes are awaiting us - but first - breakfast with Martin and Beate, after a quick trip to the head.



I haven't bothered translating this - if you read it phonetically it pretty much makes sense.
`

After breakfast we tackled adding our GPS mounts and heated-gear hookups to the bikes. By then - we were starting to flag badly, so Beate drove us to our hotel where we register and crash/burn/nap for a bit.. and are later picked up for a great meal at a local German restaurant.

Our hotel - the Eurostar hotel:


The restaurant:


If "irrepressible" needed an example - Beate would be it.. she was always great fun. That's Beate and my riding companion Herb K.


And this is Martin, and Klaus - my other riding companion.


From there - it's back to he hotel and another crash/burn session - trying to do some time zone adjustment since we're off on the bikes in the AM..

End day 1 in Europe..

BTW - overall trip track from my GPS: