Sharpening a chainsaw, there's nothing like experience
Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2016 3:42 pm
Woodcutting Friends of CycleRob,
I have been cutting hardwoods continuously for +90% home heating continuously since 1978. You learn things about chainsaw upkeep and carburettor cleaning/setting. I stumbled upon this really useful YouTube video that makes so many of the other "chainsaw sharpening" ones look like novices. The video starts out slow so be patient for the gems-2-remember. No, pretty close, but it is not me. This very experienced old guy goes into the important fine details of chainsaw hand file sharpening. He doesn't even use the usual metal framed file guide/holder. I learned a few, new, fine details from this guy! It is 9min30sec long, so save a quiet time on a large full screen PC/Mac (NOT your smartphone addiction) so you can see and learn. I especially like the solid, no tilting, vise hold method at the 3m:20s mark.
https://www.youtube.com/embed/GFMUYWUqVYc
My saws:
3rd--Husqvarna 142 --Lightweight, user friendly, reliable, fast cutting, rotary spring cushioned recoil start is a joy to use, as is the saw in general. My first $200+ quality saw.
4th--STIHL MS250 --Powerful/Impressive high performance/quality - especially with the Stihl (dangerous) loggers "yellow" chain, 12,000 RPM wail, not for the inexperienced that will find it hard-2-start. Large opening fuel and oil caps work nice-n-easy.
From 1978 onward and now dead:
1st--Sears 12" red saw --very light, ran well, lasted ~20 years (with breaker points!) Long ago recycled to scrap metal.
2nd--Poulan Super25DA --Kinda heavy, electronic ignition, LOUD, vibrated, tempermental (carb), not for non mechanics. Main bearings (and other engine parts) finally wore out after 15+ years heavy usage. Stored for usable generic spare parts.
As Do-it-Yourself friend captaincable has told me after he thoroughly researched it and bought a BIG one, Husqvarna makes a great saw! How about you guys?
I have been cutting hardwoods continuously for +90% home heating continuously since 1978. You learn things about chainsaw upkeep and carburettor cleaning/setting. I stumbled upon this really useful YouTube video that makes so many of the other "chainsaw sharpening" ones look like novices. The video starts out slow so be patient for the gems-2-remember. No, pretty close, but it is not me. This very experienced old guy goes into the important fine details of chainsaw hand file sharpening. He doesn't even use the usual metal framed file guide/holder. I learned a few, new, fine details from this guy! It is 9min30sec long, so save a quiet time on a large full screen PC/Mac (NOT your smartphone addiction) so you can see and learn. I especially like the solid, no tilting, vise hold method at the 3m:20s mark.
https://www.youtube.com/embed/GFMUYWUqVYc
My saws:
3rd--Husqvarna 142 --Lightweight, user friendly, reliable, fast cutting, rotary spring cushioned recoil start is a joy to use, as is the saw in general. My first $200+ quality saw.
4th--STIHL MS250 --Powerful/Impressive high performance/quality - especially with the Stihl (dangerous) loggers "yellow" chain, 12,000 RPM wail, not for the inexperienced that will find it hard-2-start. Large opening fuel and oil caps work nice-n-easy.
From 1978 onward and now dead:
1st--Sears 12" red saw --very light, ran well, lasted ~20 years (with breaker points!) Long ago recycled to scrap metal.
2nd--Poulan Super25DA --Kinda heavy, electronic ignition, LOUD, vibrated, tempermental (carb), not for non mechanics. Main bearings (and other engine parts) finally wore out after 15+ years heavy usage. Stored for usable generic spare parts.
As Do-it-Yourself friend captaincable has told me after he thoroughly researched it and bought a BIG one, Husqvarna makes a great saw! How about you guys?
I always wondered about sharpening - I usually bring it to a local hardware store for sharpening ($15) but they are never as good as new. I'm going to take a closer look at mine to see if the height was shaved down - I dont think it was. Thanks for the link.