BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

This morning I cracked open the toolbox and replaced the cam chain tensioner.

This is my report, with photos. This is the same upgrade that Blackadder and Elmoisu (sp) did recently. Thanks to them for part numbers, and good instructions on how to do this. I also used the instructions found on the Advrider board to enhance Blackadder’s directions. The Advrider board instructions are more detailed, and I even borrowed a couple of photos from their PDF file.

I installed the latest upgrade which comes in 2 pieces which are ordered separately. I got mine from Chicago BMW, and then ran to get the TB O-ring yesterday from BMW Motorcycles of Atlanta.

Part numbers:

Piston-11317656922-
Cylinder-11317688629-
Crush Washer-07119963308-
TB O-Ring-13541341797-

Everything went very smoothly. You loosen the 2 air intake clamps, but do not tamper with the TPS screws with the blue paint, nor do you need to loosen the clamp holding the TB to the manifold. See Photo:

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/46019363-M.jpg

After those 2 clamps are loose you can twist the intake tube sliding it back into the air chamber, out of the way.

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/46019369-M.jpg

You will now see if you mangled the thin TB o-ring as it will be exposed.

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/46019370-M.jpg

Undo the little screw under the TB and disconnect the ground wire connector. You will need to clip the wire tie holding the TPS connector wire to the ground wire.

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/46019378-M.jpg

Unplug the TPS connector and shove the two back out of the way somewhere.

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/46019384-M.jpg

Now pull off the FI connector by depressing the little clip, just like the clip on the TPS connector. Rotate the FI so you can pull off the little retaining clip holding the FI to the FI fuel intake line.

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/46019375-M.jpg

You can’t pull off the fuel intake line and remove the FI until you screw out the two hex screws holding the fuel intake line. When you remove these and pull the intake off the end of the FI there will be some fuel that flows out…Maybe a tablespoon full or so. If the fat o-ring remains in the connector, you have to pull it out and put it back on the end of the FI. Mine stayed in place but it took some tugging to get the FI out, then fuel was all over my hands. SURPRISE!

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/46019388-M.jpg

Now you have to unscrew the two hex screws holding the whole TB to the manifold. The hardest part of this whole thing was getting that inside screw out and back in. The head of it bumps into the plastic/rubber protruding from under the clamp, which was not loosened. You’ll see.

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/46019390-M.jpg

After the TB is detached, hang it from the handlebar with some wire or string to keep it up out of the way. BE CAREFUL NOT TO KINK THE FUEL INJECTOR INTAKE LINE! It wants to interfere with the TB hanging there, but if you work with the 2 a bit they both hang comfortably together without much fuss from either of them.

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/46019353-M.jpg

Now you have access to the 17mm head of the old cam chain tensioner.

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/46019395-M.jpg

I was able to get a socket and ratchet on that head, even in the tight space, but a 17mm combination wrench would probably work better. I just didn’t have one. When that old cylinder pops up there is a spring inside which needs to come out before the cylinder or the piston is removed. Mine was so loose, I just compressed it a little with my fingers and it popped out bringing the old piston, and some oil, with it.

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/46019357-M.jpg

The new one slides right in and by depressing the cylinder onto the spring you can get the threads started in the hole. Don’t forget the new crush washer! Tighten that baby down with a 15mm combination wrench….That one I have….and put it all back together in reverse order.

Suggestion: I found when removing the screws from the manifold and the FI fuel intake there was some “crap” on a couple of them where they had started to corrode. I put them back in with a thin coating of silver Anti-Seize lubricant. Also the o-rings on the FI itself slid back together better with a little Silicone lubricant spread on them. Same goes for the TB o-ring and inside edge of the air intake tube.

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/46019359-M.jpg

I haven’t taken her out for a spin to get her all heated up yet, but the first start-up after this upgrade went like this: Loud ticking in the area of the new tensioner for about 3 seconds until, I assume, it built up oil pressure around it. Then it went amazingly quiet! The fast idle switch was still engaged and I have never heard this bike this quiet before. I’m anxious to see how it sounds after it gets really hot.

And it was very easy to do, costing me $53 from Chi BMW plus a $3 o-ring.

Thank you for sharing, Boxer.

I'm so proud of you Boxer....is this the first maintenance that you have performed on your trusty steed for all of 2005?

BTW......how many beers did you consumed in the process?

All kidding aside buddy, great job and excellent posting, I figure that if I continue to trailer to the Bashes I should be up for the update right around 2015.

Love and kisses

Thanks Phil, Good Job!

Nice report Phil. I've been thinking about doing this work myself since the April bash. My bike ticks somewhat inconsistently - it sometimes does after a long ride, and sometimes it doesn't. I don't know what the long term damage is from not addressing this issue, but all that ticking comes from parts hitting each other and it can't be good, all else being equal.

Good job Boxer, and an excellent writeup!

First I've heard of a chain tensioner issue. Can someone tell me if an '04 twin spark R1150R needs a refit, is this just for high mileage bikes or just what is the straight skinny on this?

Boxer,
You made it look ,so easy !
I had know idea this could be done

Smooth right up !

Thanks !

Cam Chain (no relation) Tensioner benefits from the newer parts which are a different spec from the stock model. BMW made the change between 2003-2004. Chances are you have the more recent part already.

Symptoms of needing one, on an older build bike, are noise---no better explanation until someone smart chimes in.

Let us know if it still clanks on a cold startup.

when the engine is cold, or sometimes just when it feels like it, you can hear the cam chain rattle. As explained to me by the service manager at my dealer, this happens because of a lack of oil on the left side tensionor.

He had not heard that people had been replacing the left side tensioner with the updated parts.....

I do believe that the newer parts allow better flow of oil so the tensioner does it's job even cold....

Of all of the mods I have read about (some I have actually tried) this seems like a really great one for the cost, the complexity, and the premise that you may be fixing a sympton that could cause some serious damage down the road.


Bill

From new my 2004 R1150R has had left timing chain rattle for about 2-3 seconds on a hot restart. It is quiet when cold.

It was fitted new with the revised tensioners. My explanation is that when cold, the thicker oil doesn't bleed past the tensioner as quickly and therefore pumps up more quickly. When hot and thinner, the oil bleeds through more easily and therefore takes a couple of seconds to pump up.

I am told that it won't affect the longevity of the components but it is very embarrassing when out riding with friends or just when starting, as those who know about engine noise look alarmingly at the engine. I would be happier if it didn't sound like big-end knock when one is wearing a helmet. It is difficult to believe that BMW can't design a better tensioner.

phil r wrote:From new my 2004 R1150R has had left timing chain rattle for about 2-3 seconds on a hot restart. It is quiet when cold.

It was fitted new with the revised tensioners. My explanation is that when cold, the thicker oil doesn't bleed past the tensioner as quickly and therefore pumps up more quickly. When hot and thinner, the oil bleeds through more easily and therefore takes a couple of seconds to pump up.

I am told that it won't affect the longevity of the components but it is very embarrassing when out riding with friends or just when starting, as those who know about engine noise look alarmingly at the engine. I would be happier if it didn't sound like big-end knock when one is wearing a helmet. It is difficult to believe that BMW can't design a better tensioner.

I think my 04R has the new tensioner also. I checked today and there is definitely a 15mm, not 17mm, bolt there. From the above how-to ( BTW, Boxer, EXCELLENT writeup... ) and others I've read, the new improved ACCT comes with a 15mm bolt.
I rode 150mi today...started the bike up for the first time in almost 3weeks, and I listened carefully while it warmed up for a few. The left side was very quiet. I was surprised, quite frankly...
I'm going to give a critical listen next time for the hot re-start noise...I've never really noticed it thru my earplugs....

Would this be of any benefit on a 95 R1100R?? Does my bike even have this?? I do have some noise esp on startup, never made much of it cuz it has been there since I got the bike a year and a half ago and hasnt gotten better or worse. TIA!!

Craig

Fantastic write up and the pictures were real helpful to 'see' your write up. Great stuff - thanks for the info.............

rph802-Looking at the MAX BMW parts fiche:

http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/fiche.asp

The tensioner and piston have the same BMW part numbers for the R1150R and the R1100R. I would say the R1100R would benefit from this as well.

I'd read somewhere that EVERY oilhead could fit this new set of parts. I did mine a couple of weeks ago and in simple language..........the engine no longer sounds "sloppy".........very tight, and accurate would be the new words.

I havn't noticed any marked change in performance, as some have said might happen, but It's still too early to tell.

great mod to do.

I have the same question as rph802 except that I have a 2000 R1100R. It's noisy on startup and when it gets real hot in the summertime it makes a cam chain noise on idle.
Will the new tensioner work in our bikes?

good job boxer! now, when you make it up to NY.....

Anyone given thought to the right side tensioner for an even quieter engine? The right header right off of the engine would have to come off. Unsure of the benefit, I realize the oil does not gravity drain out of them like the left side. My parts are on the way from chicago bmw. My turn, thanks for all the helpful pics and posts. Bill C. 'Black '03 R