BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Hi guys, new to the forum and hello from aussie land.

I have an issue that I'm hoping is somewhat previously known about because I fear the alternative will be expensive!

I guess the best way to describe it is a clattering noise at idle and just above idle that appears to go away when revved although it may just be masked by the engine noise. It appears to disappear (lol) after the engine has warmed up. It also doesn't seem to always happen.

I searched online regarding possible failure of the overrun pulley, it doesn't appear to be on all bikes and I was not able to find much information about it. For those not familiar this is a one-way bearing built into the pulley on the alternator made by INA.

It seems to me that the pulley is designed to increase engine braking?? Or maybe improve gear change speed allowing the engine to drop revs quicker between shifts, i don't know.

The bike has done about 75000 km now and I have had it for about 5000.

Anyway it's good to be here and it would appreciate any feedback anybody might have about this pulley and the noise. Noise is always hard to describe of course but I guess if you've got any information on the pulley that would be a good start.

cheers.
lach

Can you tell where the noise is coming from?

A one-way bearing on the alternator is a new one on me, clattering is normally the valves or the cam-chain.

The cam-chain adjuster on the LHS (IIRC) is know to need updating and I think most of us have done it now (Reminds me - I probably need to do Rock4).

ill look into the camchain adjuster... new one to me... altbough i have done a few mods (shorten swing arm, improved clutch +spacer, remove abs, y-pipe, custom made litbium battery) :-)

really hard to tell where its coming from... seems to be the top but i don't know for sure. i might try starting bike with alternator disconnected if it will run.??

Pushrod noise?
Throttle body?
Left side cam chain tension, as James suggests?
Problems associated with alternator seem to very rare.

Catter? Humm..

Excessive rocker arm float will make noise but more of a knock.

Chatter seems more likely to be chain!

Just drop the alternator belt for a short while and see what new sounds are then. It’ll run fine without a belt for a short while

Thanks all for the replies.

Yeah "catter" !! LOL

I recently did the rocker end float and also the clearances - really quietens the engine! though, that noise definitely comes from the heads and not the front of the engine.

I'm going to look at the cam chain tensionioner too irrespective...

I need to just remove the belt while cold. being lazy I guess.

So if anyone is watching this thread, I took off the belt. Bloody mission since I shortened the swing arm now I have to remove the shock to pull the cover because there is 13mm less clearance than stock.

Anyway the noise was not there with it removed. so I guess it is that overrun pulley. It seems o.k. moving it by hand but there is some axial play. Not sure, I guess I'll have to buy another but maybe I can swap it for a fixed type.

I rang BMW and that part (at least in Australia) is discontinued.

Pulley with free wheel D=57,3MM 1 07/2003 12317678716 $121.96 ENDED, +core

Also To get it off I had to order a 33 spline special tool. cheap enuff from ebay. 12 dollaroos.

Oh and the cam chain tensioner looks like it has already been upgraded since it has the 15mm Head not the 17mm. Would this be a correct assumption?

lpnb12 wrote:So if anyone is watching this thread, I took off the belt. Bloody mission since I shortened the swing arm now I have to remove the shock to pull the cover because there is 13mm less clearance than stock.

Anyway the noise was not there with it removed. so I guess it is that overrun pulley. It seems o.k. moving it by hand but there is some axial play. Not sure, I guess I'll have to buy another but maybe I can swap it for a fixed type.

Thanks for info - which is new to me, did not know the oilheads had overrun alternator pulley.

Your first paragraph: do you mean you shortened the Paralever torque arm/rod and the bike's altered resting position places front wheel closer to front of motor?

sweatmark wrote:

lpnb12 wrote:So if anyone is watching this thread, I took off the belt. Bloody mission since I shortened the swing arm now I have to remove the shock to pull the cover because there is 13mm less clearance than stock.

Anyway the noise was not there with it removed. so I guess it is that overrun pulley. It seems o.k. moving it by hand but there is some axial play. Not sure, I guess I'll have to buy another but maybe I can swap it for a fixed type.

Thanks for info - which is new to me, did not know the oilheads had overrun alternator pulley.

Your first paragraph: do you mean you shortened the Paralever torque arm/rod and the bike's altered resting position places front wheel closer to front of motor?

thanks for the Reply!

Nope! I mean I shortened the front swing arm (Telelever). Cut 13mm from rear section of S/A and re-tigged, Cleaned up and re-painted. Also involved machining a cantered top bushing mount for the shock to account for the adjusted angle. Made a custom Alignment Jig to keep it all true whilst welding.

IS there an easy way to post pics other than on a third party site?

Cool! I've heard of that Telelever mod based on San Jose BMW's race bikes, but never for an R1150R. Acknowledging the impact that shorter Paralever strut has on these bikes (a must-do), you've got me curious about the front end change. We don't have steering damper like R1100S...

Unfortunately 3rd party file host is required for pics.

Never heard of that mod. Deffo need pics of the bike!

I have ridden it fairly hard with the new front end and I can't see it needing a steering dampener. I really can't understand why they raked out so much! the Rockster for some reason has a particularly long rake which is weird given its style and purpose. I actually bought a steering dampener but found it unnecessary.

I did calculate all the numbers but didn't retain them. I think it changed from 26.9 (stock) to 24.4 or so. I think the RS guys go to low 23.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B0m4nt6HWu2 ... _copy_link
https://www.instagram.com/p/B0k5T18noRU ... _copy_link

gives a bit of an idea.

you really can't see the difference just looking at the bike. but I will post some pics sometime.. I've painted some stuff satin black and added some spot lights. I never quite liked the silver headlight brackets ....love how it looks from the rear quarter but not the front end so much.

To keep on topic
I received the 33 tooth spline drive tool and removed the pulley. re-packed the alternator bearings with new grease and also disassembled the Over-run pulley (it pressed apart) I found that I could re-assemble (with a re-grease) and completely remove all the end float. There was almost zero wear and radial slop. I don't know if it will fix the noise but it seems like it might....heres hoping. time to ride it now bath in the glory of some new front rotors that don't pulsate.....

I'll make a shorter paralever link as well soon...prob machined out of aluminum. not sure yet

lpnb12 wrote:I'll make a shorter paralever link as well soon...prob machined out of aluminum. not sure yet

Just find a GS item first and see how it feels. I've done that mod twice and it makes quite a difference.

Rockster Paralever is 385mm
GS Paralever is 365mm.

Also, bear in mind that the shock lengths differ over the range of bikes.

riceburner wrote:Just find a GS item first and see how it feels. I've done that mod twice and it makes quite a difference.

Rockster Paralever is 385mm
GS Paralever is 365mm.

Also, bear in mind that the shock lengths differ over the range of bikes.

do people who put in a custom link go much shorter than 365mm? have you?

I'll make it adjustable.

The RAM Paralever strut is adjustable option and goes down to about 360mm. I'm running 365mm with OE shocks until I fit custom (used) taller Wilbers... cannot afford Ohlins like installed on my 1st Rockster, to which I added GS strut.

So you shortened Telelever at rear of A-arm, rather than at front ball joint? Saw examples of the latter technique on Pelican site.

I'm intrigued by the Telelever mod, need to measure geometry before and after I install my taller shocks... suspect "lift kit" approach results in rake/trail reductions similar to shortened A-arm, albeit with higher CG and roll moment of inertia. I like the lift and increased suspension travel for often bumpy mountain roads.

I had a Wilbers on my DR650 is was nice.

yes at the rear. cleaner and with the way the rockster arm specifically is welded it was easier to do what I did. Although in hindsight I would have modded the ball mount end due to the other issues it created. The other versions of the arm are easier to mod at the front.

lpnb12 wrote:I had a Wilbers on my DR650 is was nice.

yes at the rear. cleaner and with the way the rockster arm specifically is welded it was easier to do what I did. Although in hindsight I would have modded the ball mount end due to the other issues it created. The other versions of the arm are easier to mod at the front.

Looking at my bike after reading about this mod..... how much clearance do you now have between the front shock (coil-over strut) and the alternator cover?? I'm thinking 'not a lot!'