Maintenance Time..Now Where Did That Bolt Go?!

Post by **Boxer** » Tue Apr 11, 2006 6:58 pm

I thought I would wait until my spring break ride to Texas was over before diving into the needed 48K maintenance and upgrades to the bike.

I started tearing things apart on Sunday afternoon and worked some yesterday afternoon and then again today.

In addition to the 48K maintenance I'm replacing my battery finally with a new PC-680.
http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/64063933-M.jpg

While I've got the tank off and the battery out, I'm also adding a Centech AP-1 fuse panel to the top of the air filter cover and moving the diagnostic plug per cyclerob's instructions.
http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/64063944-M.jpg
b=New diagnostic plug position
a=New Centech fuse panel attached to top of cover
c=Battery box
The battery box was a little corroded and where the paint has been taken off by the acid, the rust had started. I sanded that good and hit it with some black primer.

My starter had begun to screech after starting when it was cold so Paul Glaves gave me instructions on how to clean it. I pulled it off this afternoon. This photo was after I gave it an initial wiping, right after taking it off.
http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/64063939-M.jpg
It's a Valeo and it has 48K miles on it too! Look at the dust and crap inside.
http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/64063942-M.jpg
http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/64063948-M.jpg
http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/64063937-M.jpg
After pulling it out and wiping it a little I thought to look at the flywheel to check for broken teeth. HOLY CRAP!
http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/64063941-M.jpg
Look at the rust! How could this be? Any pros out there got any suggestions? I guess I'll start by cleaning that stuff the best I can and give it a wiping with some oil.

Paul said to spray some brake cleaner down inside the front of the starter and blow it out with compressed air, then repeat, and this would stop the screeching for a while. I'll post another photo when it gets clean.

You know I couldn't leave this without a question, didn't you?
Here's my question: The fuse panel instructions say when connection to the battery power positive post, to use a fusible link or Maxi-Fuse! Anybody know what they're talking about?

Post by **taosports** » Tue Apr 11, 2006 8:51 pm

Thanks Phil for the photos and write up. I plan in the next month to do my 24,000 mile maintenence and in the process, I'm also adding a Centech AP-1 fuse panel. If I run into any problems with the fuse panel, I know who to ask!

Airman · Post by **Airman** » Tue Apr 11, 2006 11:23 pm

Why don't you take the starter apart to clean it ? It seems standard enough. Blasphemous though to use a French starter in our German machines, eh ? No wonder it screeches.

SLEDGE · Post by **SLEDGE** » Wed Apr 12, 2006 6:15 am

A fuse link is a wire that will act as a fuse incase of a short circuit, a Maxi fuse ir one of thoughs realy big plug in fuses, looks like the other fuses on the bike x10+. That fues box must be set up to draul some amps.

Post by **taosports** » Wed Apr 12, 2006 6:22 am

Regarding the Maxi-Fuse, I'm assuming the instructions are calling for this :

http://www.bluesea.com/product.asp?Product_id=26377

Post by **Boxer** » Wed Apr 12, 2006 6:36 am

Airman-I had thought about pulling that thing apart for cleaning, but it seems the time and effort doesn't net that much improvement over just washing it out with brake cleaner and blow-drying it. I'm trusting the BMW mechanical wizardry of Paul Glaves on this one.

SLEDGE-Thanks for the input. Maybe you could walk me through this install. The Centech fuse block has connections for 8 devices. The end fuses have one connection each and the 3 center fuses have two connections. It came with a 5Amp, a 20Amp, two 10Amps, and a 15Amp fuses already installed in the block. That looks to me like a capacity of 60Amps, but my understanding of this is minimal. I'm not sure which ones I should use for which accessory I install though. I'm putting in a set of Hella FF50 lights for one item and also hot wiring my air pump. A third item will eventually be a "cigarette lighter" type outlet and maybe a plug for a heated vest. I've been looking at the switched relay at Aerostich as a way to cut the whole fuse block off with a switch. My lights came with a relay and switch combo but if I can figure it out, I'll just put the whole block on one switch and when I turn on the lights, the whole block will be functional. I suppose the problem with that is, when I go to turn off the lights, everything else will go off. Suggestions please.

SLEDGE · Post by **SLEDGE** » Wed Apr 12, 2006 6:01 pm

Boxer you have mail.

Post by **scottybooj** » Thu Apr 13, 2006 3:53 pm

That screeching sound was the starter saying "I surrender, I surrender"

Post by **DJ Downunder** » Thu Apr 13, 2006 4:13 pm

Boxer thanks for the write up and especially the pics...great.

DJ

Post by **Boxer** » Sat Apr 15, 2006 1:44 pm

Got the starter back in. Fuse panel is installed.

Got the lights all wired okay and everything works. Thanks to SLEDGE's help. BTW Sledge, the "yellow" wire is the low beam wire and I took your suggestion after all. When the high beam come on, the driving lights go off. Just have to place all the loose wiring somewhere.

I fabricated the brackets myself and used the Hella FF50s attached to the headlight bolt. Had to dremel out a little of the plastic trim to accomodate my bracket.

Now can someone suggest something to cover this switch wiring?

I'm placing it right where I drew that yellow oval and the wiring on the back under the handlebar. I was thinking of electrical tape and plastic ties. I'm open to any other ideas here to waterproof that baby.

Eqyn Dad · Post by **Eqyn Dad** » Tue Apr 18, 2006 4:25 pm

Phil:

Heat shrink to waterproof that switch and connectors. Double layer of 2 varying sizes and the top layer longer than the base layer and you should have no problem. It looks better that way too.

Great thread - thanks.

beemerphile · Post by **beemerphile** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 8:58 pm

I put my driving lights on an AutoSwitch. That way there is no light switch to locate. It operates by an extended press of the turn signal cancel button. - Lee

Post by **CycleRob** » Fri Apr 21, 2006 12:53 am

I wired my driving lites with an AutoSwitch too . . . but also added a 2 Amp blocking diode (salvaged from my junk) wired in between the high beam wire and the relay coil hot side so the bike's high beam also turns on the driving lights (when they are off). The diode prevents the AutoSwitch's relay coil power from trying to also power the bike's high beam. An electrical "check valve" if you will.

What a mega light show that set-up is at nite!! During the day I use low beam and the driving lites because the high beam is too annoying and blinding to on-coming drivers.

The best part about the AutoSwitch is that if you shut the bike off with the driving lites on, they do NOT come on when you turn the key back on for starting.

BSTWAY · Post by **BSTWAY** » Mon Apr 24, 2006 8:58 pm

Phil Ã¢â‚¬â€œ Curious as to whether the starter cleaning fixed your screeching noise? MineÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s been doing this for about six months now (30k miles) and itÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s driving me batty. Took it to the dealer over the winter to get it taken care of under warranty but they were to: lazy, inept, incompetentÃ¢â‚¬Â¦ to fix the noise. The warranty is now history so IÃ¢â‚¬â„¢m on my own.