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I have spark in both cylinders runs well with TPS unhooked.

So I just had the dealer replace the clutch and slave cylinder.

Now the bike does not idle well and will stall out; I am thinking TPS or throttle bodies not being synced?

Bike runs pretty well above 3,000 rpm; sputters a little when you get off the throttle.

Thanks for all the information; where can I buy the bleeder?
I saw one video where you can just depress the "bleed ball" with any blunt object like a allen key.

I was told that the DOT4 fluid is corrosive and could damage the slave cylinder.

Does anyone recommend using Mineral Oil or Automatic Transmission fluid in lieu of brake fluid DOT4 in the hydraulic clutch?

I have heard of adding stainless steel washers to the upper mounts to "shim" the windshield out and thus deflecting the wind higher.

Replaced brake lines with Spiegler Stainless Steel lines from Sportbike Track Gear; lines came with banjo bolts.
Bled all lines and everything is working.

Thanks to sweatmark!

Brass ferrule and EFI clamp fixed the nylon fuel line.

I am going to try a brass 90 degree elbow to cut out the knick and join the hard plastic line to the rubber line.

Wish me luck.

Thank you for the link!

Now I just need to figure out how to access the area - I might have to remove the servo unit or the air box; which one is easier to remove? Neither I am sure.

I need help finding, replacing, & ordering new HARD PLASTIC FUEL LINES that run under the battery. I damged the return line just down from the quick connector when I was installing NEW metal quick connects!
It looks like if I can get the "cradle" for the battery out I can access them.

Why can't you use the double Banjo bolt and a separate lines to each front caliper with ABS brakes?

1. Bled the rear brakes from the servo to the caliper. 2. Bled the rear brakes from master cylinder to the servo. 3. Bled the front brakes from the master cylinder to the servo. 4. TRIED TO BLEED the front brakes from the servo to the calibers - NO JOY! No fluid came out of the clutch (left) side ca...

Turns out the switch ended up dying and I replaced it with one from Digikey following the attached youtube video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXZ5qLpBHQE

Turn signal worked fine today; I guess it dried out? Probably means I will have more issues later...

I went ahead and re-taped the wires.

Sorry I forgot to mention I did cut the zip ties at the horn when I bought the bike last year with 11,000 miles on it, but maybe the damage was already done.

I have NOT cut the zip ties under the tank that I just read about.

Last week riding home in the rain I noticed my left turn signal was turning itself on.
This morning the signal would not turn on until I pushed it 3-4 times; then it works fine.
It works fine in hazard mode.
It appears to be a faulty left turn switch on the handlebar?

Nice bike; I saw that bike at Morton's before Christmas.

Thanks for help and pictures; looks a lot easier than installing the GS hand guards.

Do you have any pictures of the barkbusters installed?

Did you have to modify or move the banjo bolts?