Bike still wont start.

[frozenvolume]

My 02 r1159r died on me after a 30 minute ride a couple of weeks ego. the starter worked and the battery seemed great, the engine would crank but wouldn't spark.
After talking to some members they suggested to change out the spark coil and the hall sensor. which i did. even made a hall sensor tester to help me find tdc. after working on the bike for hours and putting everything back i though it would start. NOPE it would crank and crank and ignite every once and a while, even holding a very rough idle for about 1 and a half seconds. tried to re adjust the hall sensor for hours trying to maybe get the timing right. but that wasn't the issue. rechecked the jets and they seem to be squirting ok. checked the spark and it's nice and fat. i really have no idea whats going on any more. maybe bad wiring somewhere? how do I check that? also including a video of what it sounds like. you can kinda hear it ignite a couple of seconds in.

https://youtu.be/Ez4hwhb2BNU

[AZBMWRIDER]

Is the fuel pump running when you turn the key to the run position without trying to start it ???

Have you checked the fuses to see if one has failed ??

[Sunbeemer]

If you have good spark, fuel, compression (you do have compression right?) and the timing is good then it should run!
Check that the throttle cables are snuggled into the ferrules above the fuel injectors since this is a common enough problem, but usually only after tank removal & replacement.
Then I'd check for water in your gas...did you fill the tank just before this happened? Sometimes after a gas station just gets it's fuel delivered a lot of water gets stirred up in the in-ground tanks.

Most of the failures I've heard about relating to the Hall-effect sensor assembly involved deterioration of the wire insulation inside the harness running from the sensor up to the plug underneath the right front part of the tank. I assume the new unit you installed included this wiring harness and it plugged straight into the existing plug. How did the old plug receptacle look, could it use some contact cleaner?

Do you hear the fuel pump whine when you turn the key on? Have you checked all the fuses?
Have you checked the fuel pump plug under the right-hand side of the tank. How about the fuel-line Quick-Disconnects right below that plug, are they both fully clicked into place or leaking maybe?

Check that the sidestand safety switch is working by attempting to start in neutral.
Of course your "Run/Stop" switch is in the run position, right?

Let us know what you discover because that's how how we learn from each other.

[frozenvolume]

i haven't checked the fuel pump to see if it turns on. I did however check all the fuses and they are all fine. the whole bike honestly needs to get the wire harness checked over but the hall sensor plug looked ok. is there anyway to be able to know which pin goes where? i have the clymber and hayes manuals and they have the wiring diagrams, would those be able to tell me where to check it from end to end to see if the wiring is ok?

[peels]

if you have fuel. compression, and timing the only thing stopping you..... you are either not getting fuel/air at all or way too much. Immediately check that your two throttle cables are fully seated into the stops directly above the throttle bodies like they should be. it is VERY easy for one or both to become dislodged, and crooked, causing one TB to be almost wide open, no way it will stay running, even if it does start. this usually happens to the RIGHT side. This usually happens while working on the bike, specifically during tank removal, but Ive had it happen completely accidentally.

could also pull the boot off, and see that both butterflies are same level.

even if you checked that throttle cable, DO IT AGAIN!



then check that your throttle body boots are sealed.

check compression(highly doubtful)

save for all that... are you SURE you are getting fuel to both tb's? get some starting fluid and spray into the airbox see if it starts. fuel pump going, or fuel filter.....? when you turn on your key, you'll hear your pump run. just make sure its not the abs, but its easy to tell.

ttry starting it with the gas tank lid open... maybe your overflow is plugged...long shot.

[Sunbeemer]

A common problem was that the wire-ties for the harnesses under the headlight were installed too tight and could cut through or chafe wires inside the loom. On the right-hand side this could effect the kill switch, which will stop the bike if disconnected. Sometimes you can check these by turning the handlebars from side to side while cranking the starter. If it starts and runs when the bars are turned one way and then dies when you move them, this is the likely culprit.

If you haven't already, cut those too-tight wire-ties and replace them with looser ties as necessary.

And let us know if the fuel pump runs when you turn on the key with the bike in neutral.

Yes, there is a schematic for the Hall-effect wiring at: http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/ Click on "R259 Crank Angle Sensor" to download the .pdf by Dana Hager.

[sweatmark]

My 02 r1159r died on me after a 30 minute ride a couple of weeks ego. the starter worked and the battery seemed great, the engine would crank but wouldn't spark.
After talking to some members they suggested to change out the spark coil and the hall sensor. which i did. even made a hall sensor tester to help me find tdc. after working on the bike for hours and putting everything back i though it would start. NOPE it would crank and crank and ignite every once and a while, even holding a very rough idle for about 1 and a half seconds. tried to re adjust the hall sensor for hours trying to maybe get the timing right. but that wasn't the issue. rechecked the jets and they seem to be squirting ok. checked the spark and it's nice and fat. i really have no idea whats going on any more. maybe bad wiring somewhere? how do I check that? also including a video of what it sounds like. you can kinda hear it ignite a couple of seconds in.

https://youtu.be/Ez4hwhb2BNU

Video:
1. That battery sounds tired.
2. Your bike has Integral ABS... I replayed the vid a few times, listening for the ABS servo whine (seems to be there). I'm not a fan of iABS1.
3. That partial ignition hiccup suggests that the circuits which might interfere with starting are not causing problems.

So, if it was me:
New battery, fresh gas, try to start it again.

If that doesn't work, I would change the spark plugs (only 2 conventional plugs for your '02), confirm that there's nothing blocking air intake/filter, and re-confirm that both injectors are squirting happily.

If that doesn't work, then you go a level deeper with the air + fuel + compression + spark.

Good luck

[peels]

oops. I missed the vid. just watched it. I hear a lot of air moving in that video. Try spraying starter fluid into the intake while starting. That will tell you right away if its a fuel or spark problem. SO this happened out of nowhere, no previous symptoms AT ALL, like hard starting... rough idle?

any chances you have bad gas? drain it, put fresh in. this doesn't cost you anything.

I read about a Fuel injector plug having a bent pin it once, and causing a cylinder to not fire at all.

check sunbeemers thought about the wire ties. it happens.

[Roger 04 rt]

My 02 r1159r died on me after a 30 minute ride a couple of weeks ego. the starter worked and the battery seemed great, the engine would crank but wouldn't spark.
After talking to some members they suggested to change out the spark coil and the hall sensor. which i did. even made a hall sensor tester to help me find tdc. after working on the bike for hours and putting everything back i though it would start. NOPE it would crank and crank and ignite every once and a while, even holding a very rough idle for about 1 and a half seconds. tried to re adjust the hall sensor for hours trying to maybe get the timing right. but that wasn't the issue. rechecked the jets and they seem to be squirting ok. checked the spark and it's nice and fat. i really have no idea whats going on any more. maybe bad wiring somewhere? how do I check that? also including a video of what it sounds like. you can kinda hear it ignite a couple of seconds in.

https://youtu.be/Ez4hwhb2BNU

From these symptoms it sounds like you have a split in-tank hose. Here's how to quickly check it: http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/u ... Post838620.

For a quick check it can be as simple as disconnecting the upper QD, holding the plunger in on the male side, turning on the key and seeing if fuel sprays out while the pump runs. Remember this test must be done on the return line, coming from the fuel dist., not on the supply side coming from the tank.