The fuel filter *&^!%)*^%#$!!!!

[Dr. Strangelove]

what a major pita that is!

I could hear them laughing in "Munchen" all the way over here on Pine Street...."Zo...you zink you are gut mit dem hands< eh? Vee haben vaaays of deeeling mit such thoughts...Vee vill machen der exchange zomevhat zimilar du putting zee baaaby back shrough zee birtt canal......Yessss."

What were they thinking? I thought of externalizing it, but didn't What was I thinking! Could the hoses be run under the seat, like over the airbox? It is one thing to take off the tank, but to change the filter adds a quantum leap in hassle.

I did it, I think. I have had gas in it overnight and see no leak and I am getting ready to put the tank back on. But that filter exchange qualifies as tortures of the damned.
Next time I will either pay someone to do it or externalize it. For me at least, there is NO WAY on this good earth, that this could be done on the road. No way.

This is Grapes of Wrath misery.

hope this helps

John

[Dr. Strangelove]

oh, and if the forgoing didn't dissuade you--the internal hoses, which you must disconnect, no easy feat that because they use those clips(!) that resist removal and you will have some gas down there because it is impossible? to remove ALL the gas, so don't cut them off with a dremel--those hoses are NOT 5/16; so when you go to pep boys (etc) you need to get 13mm FI clamps in addition to the 16s (2 and 2).

[priapismic]

Exactly why this is the one job I don't do myself. Easy to pay the dealer to do it once every other year or so.

[hotzuk]

Hey Strangelove,

I hear your pain on that one. I removed my tank to wire up some auxiliary lighting. My thought was well you have the tank off so change the filter while you are there. I actually called up my riding buddy to curse BMW on his cellphone voicemail. OMG. It really should not be that much work to replace a filter. Don't get me started on those clamps. It is almost like they actually said "What is the most complicated way we can make this fuel filter replacement procedure" Well, I am trying to look at the glass half full at the end of the install. I am off the hook for this one for another 2-3 years.

I feel your pain my brotha!!!!!!!!!!!

[boxermania]

John, feel your pain....take two aspirin and call me in the morning. Sorry, couldn't help it.....hope everything turned out OK.

You see our beloved bikes are the Germans attempt to mimic the Italian bikes....exotic and temperamental....unfortunately they fell somewhat short as they can best be described as durable not and surprise!!!

[Dr. Strangelove]

thanks for all the sympathy, guys.
first the good news

Man, she runs like a bat outta hell! She can again breathe and eat...and run! and nothing seems to be leaking! In addition the low fuel light went out when I filled up--now to see when it comes on, but I think I am ok with it, so I didn't trash the float

The bad news...The main thing I was replacing "while the tank was off" was the front abs sensor that Birmingham BMW told me was bad according to the computer readout and that is why my abs was not working and the check engine and abs (aka "brake failure") lights did not extinguish when underway.

I replaced it and the check engine light went out--for about 2 seconds, I think, then I was back to where I started. I don't know if the abs light ever went out. So...a trip to Baton Rouge will be undertaken and while they are looking at that I will have the brake fluid changed. Maybe it needs to be reset? I would think when booting up, if the sensor was really bad and is now good, the lights would have gone out??
I stepped hard on my rear brake today to see if the abs would kick in. I did this as coming to a stop sign going fairly slowly. I didn't make the rear skid, nor did I feel the abs. The bike did pull to the right a bit when I did it, but:
1--maybe it was my imagination and it really didn't pull or
2--the rear did lock and I didn't know it and that is why I bore to the right

any ideas appreciated


John

[Beemeridian]

11

[Dr. Strangelove]

Hi, Dave,
hope all is well with you.

the ones inside can be pinched off with only moderate use of foul language. Those are the ones sitting inches away from the pooled gas. The ones actually on the fuel (fool?) filter have to be dremeled. But by the time you doing this the "assembly" is away from the tank, though ther is gas in the filter.

Three trips to pep boys was involved the first, forgot my wallet at home; the second, the 16mm clamps; the third the 13mm clamps.

but other than my brake light issue I think I succeeded at the fuel filter exchange.

John

[FloridaBeakster]

I externalized it. Stuck it in the space where the ABS stuff goes. I also zip-tied a spare (in a ziploc bag) in that same space, so if I get stuck with bad gas in the middle of nowhere, I have everything I need readily accessible.

[Dr. Strangelove]

I have abs

You still have to raise the tank?

Or enough length to pull it out into sunlight?

[riceburner]

Blimey - it's not THAT hard to change....

You should try doing the valves on a Vincent...

[FloridaBeakster]

I have abs

You still have to raise the tank?

Or enough length to pull it out into sunlight?

My system won't work with ABS. I do have to completely remove the tank to access the filter, but don't have to open the tank. Removing the tank is pretty easy once you've done it a few times (I think I did it something like 3 times in the first month of ownership for various maintenance/mods). With metal QDs and a few spare QD o-rings, I have nothing to worry about when removing/replacing the tank.

The other spot I was looking at for mounting an external fuel filter was right at the bottom of the airbox/top of the gearbox. It would have taken a lot more work to build a mount for it at the bottom of the airbox, but it should be tucked out of the way in that location.

[Airman]

oh, and if the forgoing didn't dissuade you--the internal hoses, which you must disconnect, no easy feat that because they use those clips(!) that resist removal and you will have some gas down there because it is impossible? to remove ALL the gas, so don't cut them off with a dremel--those hoses are NOT 5/16; so when you go to pep boys (etc) you need to get 13mm FI clamps in addition to the 16s (2 and 2).

I used the 5/16 FI hoses in both locations I believe. A way to minimize the fuel problem is to disconnect the QD's, then twist the stock clamps from the lowermost hard line. Remove the lower QD and hose.... then after placing it over a gas can, reconnect it to the upper and drain out the remaining fuel in the tank. I plane to carry those old QD's with me in case I have need to drain the tank by the roadside, or need gas for the fire or whatever.

[Dr. Strangelove]

There were a couple of threads in the past about those hard black plastic tubes cracking and being very expensive to replace. Do they swivel w/o breaking? or I suppose a length of hose could be attached and directed downward into a fuel can. It would seem that the filter could be placed on top of the airbox with long enough hose. It is probably a fire hazard there if it leaks; but it is probably a fire hazard anywhere but in the tank.

[CycleRob]

Responding to the original post . . . . the difficulty of removing the fuel pump plate assembly for fuel filter replacement . . . . it's easy when you know (or finally learn) the correct sequence of operations. It starts with siphoning all the remaining fuel out of the tank. Hooking to the QD's with another one is OK for quickly draining out the majority of the fuel, but that method may leave too much behind to contain if you're not careful about always positioning the fueltank correctly throughout the procedure. Start with the thorough siphoning, then remove the fueltank, tip it to put any remaining fuel in the right side forward "pocket" area, then direct your siphon hose into that pocket to get it all. You can do this before and after just unbolting the fuel pump plate, allowing better access. Be sure you mark the plate's installed location first, as with it's symmetrical bolt pattern, it will go on in any position.
Next you need to simultaneously remove and turn the fuel pump plate assembly out of the opening, WITHOUT FORCING, DISTORTING OR BENDING ANYTHING (!!!). It's about a 1/4 turn CCW, with much observational patience, and out it comes! When you do it correctly, possible without even touching the sides of the opening, you will realize with great pride you now belong in the group of the privileged few.
If your fuel filter has screw type clamps on it you do not have to remove the vent lines. If there are those crappy crimp clamps on the filter, you may have to deal with the BMW reuseable vent line clamps on the interior small hoses still attached to the pump plate assembly. That's because cutting them off will make a gritty mess you do not want anywhere near the tank's opening and it's fuel puddle. First, identify them so you do NOT mix them up. There are subtle marks on one hose - - - a lengthwise white stripe on the hose and white rubber ring or white paint spot on it's connection to the metal pipe spigot. You can remove the 2 small metal clamps with a small pair of Dykes (wire cutters). First look closely at the clamp's cross section to reveal it's latching method and you'll see how you have to squeeze (from the side) and turn or peel away the outcropping bulge so it can unlatch and release. That's very important (how it latches) because it determines exactly how the required squeeze-n-turn force must be applied - - with zero deviation tolerated! Because they fit so tightly when latched, they were meant to be reused and I learned how to unlatch/latch them, I reused'um.
Finally, you have the fuel pump plate assembly in your hands! Be ready for the green plastic filter sock to dribble some gasoline it's holding and will continue to spill when you turn-n-tip the assembly causing the connective piping (and filter) to drain it's trapped fuel. I threw a medium sized rag to cover over everything but the fuel filter and it's 2 attaching clamps. If you still have the stock crimp clamps, you'll need either a Dremel powered cutoff disk or an Incredible Hulk squeeze on a large pair of Dykes to cut thru only one "leg" of the bulging loop formed by the crimping operation. Using the Dremel cutoff disk generates a shower of sparks, so you need a good plan. I used a big fan on the filter, aimed to blow the sparks away from the potentially fuel wet parts. It's best to let it blow a few minutes prior to Dremel cutting to dissipate fuel vapors, so there's too weak a fuel vapor mixture to ignite. The same too weak a fuel vapor mixture to ignite condition will exist when the sparks are flying. Cut both clamps before removing either one. Now you are ready to R&R the filter, using your new SS screw&nut EFI clamps.
On the reassembly, just reverse the order of operations. The internal vent hose clamps may need a final small TAP to snap the latching hook over it's catch hump after squeezing it into place, to put it where it belongs.

Externalizing the fuel filter with extra hoses has it's pluses and minuses. Yes it speeds up the filter change, but does 24,000 miles happen that quickly? Are you comfortable with the safety of all that exposed extra lengths of PRESSURIZED (3 Bar, 42.7 psi) fuel lines?
I went with what the Kraut engineers designed in -and- every 24K I get a close look at the fuel sock and tank interior surface . . . . but that's just me.


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[taosports]

Here's a photo of the whole assembly and the tiny, tiny hole it comes out of :