BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Ok, got my R1200R today and I'm absolutely in love... the sound, the ride, handling etc.... BUT, I'm a bit troubled with the occasional (usually when I first start the motor and want to shift into 1). It's happening maybe 1 out of 3 times... Never occurs when I'm out driving around and downshifting into 1 at a stop. When it does occur, there isn't the customary click/detent that you get when you push down into 1st.. the peg just doesn't move, it's like it's stuck. I then mess with it with my foot a bit, move the bike up a foot or so and it goes in.

Is this a new-break in thing? or should I be worried?

Also, is it normal for there to be a loud thunk sound when I downshift into 1st? The rest of the gears don't' make quit that much of a sound.

Loud thunk... no; light thunk yes. The severity of a thunk is in the ear of the beholder. It's new, take it to the dealer. Maybe the clutch needs adjusting. Make it the dealer's problem.

During the first 600 miles and for a few thereafter, mine did a similar thing.

First start it up and then try to shift to first and it wouldn't go in. I learned to rock the bike, move the wheels a few inches forward or back and in goes the shift.

Over time you get used to it.

Loud clunk into first seems to be normal. Well... louder than other bikes, not actually loud per se.

what they said.

Or try to feather the clutch a little with a small blip of the throttle while putting slight pressure with your foot shifting into 1st. Learn the friction zone.
Like your lady might tell you, it's all in the gentle touch of your two fingers. (on the clutch lever)
Before long it will be second nature, that is unless you have something wrong. There are a few quirks to get used to, shifting would be # 1. Things will loosen up with miles too.


Congrats on taking delivery, what a glorious day to be remembered.

Mine is similarly reluctant, especially when just started up. The trick I've learned recently for smooth shifting into first:

1. Preload the shifter with a little downward pressure from your foot.
2. Slowly let the clutch lever out. Once it starts to grab the tiniest bit, it causes everything to line up and the transmission just slides into gear.

This way feels the smoothest to me. Otherwise, I had luck by letting the clutch out, and trying to shift as soon as I pulled the lever in. This tends to work as well, but makes a louder clunk.

-Alec

If you are moving at 5 or 10 miles per hour when you downshift into first you may have a louder
than normal clunk as first is a big, heavy gear and when the shift dogs engage there is a bit of
inertia to contend with.

Select first as you just roll to a stop and your shift should be just a click...no CLUNK.

well guys in true form of fellow bikers, you've all come in with some good advise. I will try your ideas out today when I go out for my ride. I think the weather is going to turn bad starting tomorrow so I'll get a bit of riding in today.

It's just odd for me that with the clutch fully in, there would be any hunting or coercing of the gear. If this all doesn't work, a visit to the dealer for an adjustment might be in order.

Otherwise an amazing bike, with easily the best sound of anything I've ridden.

Pull in the clutch and shift. If you pause at all between those two steps, you may not be able to shift when you do get around to it. When that happens, simply let the clutch back out (i.e. in neutral) then pull the clutch in and shift. Any delay, no matter how slight can cause it not to shift for you.

Bruce

AncientMariner wrote:Pull in the clutch and shift. If you pause at all between those two steps, you may not be able to shift when you do get around to it. When that happens, simply let the clutch back out (i.e. in neutral) then pull the clutch in and shift. Any delay, no matter how slight can cause it not to shift for you.

Bruce

hmm...ok, that may be what I've been subconsciously doing when I get it to work. But just to be clear, is this a normal behavior? or something to take it in for?

Based upon past discussions on this forum, and the fact that both of my R12's behaved this way, I'd say it's normal. Once you internalize the process, you'll hardly ever give it a thought...

Bruce

Glad you posted this thread since I've been having the same issue with the used R1200R I got recently. Was just starting to wonder if I had a costly repair in my future.

I've just been starting in second when that happens, but I'll try the methods everyone mentioned.

Yes, they all do that. The older bikes were a lot worse (tractor-like in other words) but the R1200R tranny is still not as butter smooth as other bikes you might be used to. The transmission needs to be spinning, so from neutral pull in clutch and immediately shift into first. Works every time for me!

This is a pretty common query when someone first gets a BMW who was used to riding Japanese or other wet-clutch bikes.

The clutch on an R12 completely disengages when you pull the lever in. The clutch on a Japanese bike - being wet and multiplate - still has a tiny bit of drag through the clutch. The difference is - on the BMW - the gears in the transmission come to a complete stop, and if they're not lined up correctly - they refuse to mesh. The gears on the Japanese bike, especially when in neutral are still receiving some rotating force, so they still spin a bit. If the gears aren't lined up when going from N to 1 - the spinning gear means it will line up without you ever feeling any resistance.

How to avoid this..

1 - Don't shift into neutral at lights. This is one of those basic MSF suggestions that is a good one, and I usually follow their advice. The idea being if you see someone about to slam into the back of you at the light (it's happened to me.. idiot cell phoner).. you can simply release the clutch and move out of the way, without having to lift your foot from the ground and shift the bike into gear. It's a good idea, and as I said - I usually do it. I sometimes don't if I'm at a very long light, and 3-4 cars have stopped behind me, with the closest one a reasonable distance from me.

2 - Feather the clutch a bit. A very quick slight release of the clutch is enough to get the gears spinning long enough so you can easily engage 1st. Once it's in 1st you can continue releasing the clutch to take off if you want. This becomes 2nd nature after a while, it just takes practice to get it into your lizard (reaction) memory.

Have fun with your R12R - it sounds like it's just fine..

Well, went out on a long ride around today with a friend and tried out the advise.... short answer, works great! this is something that I guess that goes along with learning the new bike...

thanks again all.

deilenberger wrote: 1 - Don't shift into neutral at lights. This is one of those basic MSF suggestions that is a good one, and I usually follow their advice. The idea being if you see someone about to slam into the back of you at the light (it's happened to me.. idiot cell phoner).. you can simply release the clutch and move out of the way, without having to lift your foot from the ground and shift the bike into gear. It's a good idea, and as I said - I usually do it. I sometimes don't if I'm at a very long light, and 3-4 cars have stopped behind me, with the closest one a reasonable distance from me.

..

I always have to ask.... WHERE do you go to escape the cell phone idiot heading for your rear when you are stopped at the light? Into Cross traffic in the intersection? (DEAD) or into the cars in front of you? (accident, YOUR fault). I can not imagine that I could react in time and or find a safe place to go in the 1/2 second that I have once I realize just what is about to happen.

To answer your question about where to escape, You don't need to escape into the intersection. I usually check ahead for the escapes rather than relying on my cat-like reflexes and if you are in the front of the line, you can usually pull onto the sidewalk, in front of the car that is next to you on a multilane, turn the corner onto the shoulder, etc. if you are in line, you just filter up through the cars. If the escape is to filter, I make sure to stop on the side of lane that allows the easiest filter. It's all about planning ahead. Bikes can squeeze through very tight places, especially when needed.

ammolab wrote:I always have to ask.... WHERE do you go to escape the cell phone idiot heading for your rear when you are stopped at the light? Into Cross traffic in the intersection? (DEAD) or into the cars in front of you? (accident, YOUR fault). I can not imagine that I could react in time and or find a safe place to go in the 1/2 second that I have once I realize just what is about to happen.

Next to the car in front of you, or into the intersection (even if you can only move 6' forward and to the side - you have a better chance.) When I'm the first vehicle in line, I never pull right up to the white line.. I leave about 6' or so to move in if I have to. Ditto if I'm behind a car in line - I leave enough space so I can slide down alongside the car in front if needed.

And for reaction time? Did find out this works about 4-5 years ago. I was stopped at a light, heard brakes/tires squeeling behind me, glanced to the rear and scooted forward and to the left. Car went sliding right into the intersection (just missed getting slammed by cross-traffic.)

Every edge you can give yourself helps..