Sunbeemer wrote:Hey Carlos, where was the gearbox oil leaking from, and how did it get on the pushrod?
Rich,
The black oil seal that you partially see deep in the hole is the "rear input shaft seal". The input shaft is the one that is splined and fits in the clutch. It has an oil seal at the front of the gearbox, and another at the rear. When the rear seal leaks, gear oil can get on the pushrod that you see sticking out from the hole. The oil can then run along the pushrod (which runs the length of the gearbox inside the hollow input shaft) until it reaches the clutch.
challey,
You can't see the weep hole because there isn't one and why a leaky seal causes a problem. My Drill&Tap solution is one that requires slave removal and careful slanted drilling/tapping hand work to locate the drain location/depth correctly. The gasket cutout makes a functioning weep hole but it will be messy and hidden too much out of sight until you notice it while cleaning the bike. The weep could make quite a mess, even on the TIRE (!!!) during a long freeway ride, before it finally drips to the ground to be noticed.
DJ you are so very right! Clear tubing to the right footpeg drain hose group it is! This adds big motivation to a job I was dreading (Winter spline lube and slave cylinder teardown).
Ah, ha! I see what you are saying, Carlos. Thanks for clearly explaning.
In that case, Rob's weep hole would not only be a good telltale, it could drain the grease to keep it from migrating forward along the pushrod to the clutch (and keep it off the rear tire with the following possible consequences: )
I'm reading this thread because I have to replace my slave cylinder. But none of the pictures will open except for the one showing the tranny and the clutch fluid draining out, but I can go into the garage and see that first hand.
Any place I can see a pic of where others are drilling the weep hole?
I follow the idea of the 6 o'clock weep hole and have an idea where to drill but would prefer to see a pic first.
On the threaded hollow bolt, my idea is to take a long zerk fitting and remove the check valve (steel ball) so it drains all the time and will allow attachment of a clear plastic drain hose. (One time I ground off the top enough to get the ball to come out, another time I was able to center punch the ball and push it and its spring out the back. Recently I have run across a zerk fitting with just an open bore and no check valve) I have a tap for zerk fittings so I should be able to tap the tranny.
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