Another newbie to the R!

[iowabeakster]

Also, is it normal to have some leaking around the upper fork seals when it is hot?

It is not "normal" for the fork seals to leak. But...my right fork seal has begun leaking this year.

Here's the thing...with the telelever suspension, the fork oil is not used as a suspension component like in traditional forks. It really is just lubrication. If you look at a maintenance manual you will see that the forks just slide...no spring, no valves, nothing in there. All of the "functional" suspension is the single strut.

So the questions are: how much is it leaking? how much does it bother you?

I have been debating whether or not to fix mine.

Here's the delima.

Case #1

Get out the credit card. (I won't be doing this, that I'm sure)

Case #2

1. remove front brake calipers
2. remove brake lines (and ABS sensor and wire if equipped) from forks and mud guard
3. remove speedo cable
4. crane or jack bike to avoid tip-over damage
5. remove wheel
6. remove beak and mud guard
7. remove handle bars (to get access to bolt at top bridge)
8. remove fork from the bridges at telelever and handlebar
9. drain oil
10. replace seal
then steps 9-1 in reverse for assembly


or Case #3

1. wipe with rag on occasion



Now, I don't mind playing in the garage. But this is really testing the limits of my Obsessive-Cumpulsive Disorder.

[WildBlue]

Before you chuck the yellow plug (and I'm not saying don't, I'm just saying you need to do some other basic stuff, first):

* Replace the spark plugs with the Autolite 3923 or 3923P
* Check/adjust the valve clearances. Don't rely on a dealer for this, only if you do it will you ensure that it is done right. Very good/quick/easy instructions are here:

http://www.largiader.com/tech/ohvalves/

* Balance the throttle bodies. Even more important to do yourself than the valve adjust. A very careful throttle body balance is essential to the smooth running of the single-spark 1150's. You should be able to find information through a search as well as instructions to make your own differential water manometer which is about 10x as accurate as mercury and costs very little.

I doubt it will still be surging after you complete the above tasks. And, those tasks should be done anyway.

I am still having trouble locating my manuals from the move... what's the gap that should be used on the plugs?

EDIT: IBMWR is your friend.

[KHaynes]

I had an R1150GS with a top box that protruded a bit too far into the passenger's space. It was a nuisance to my wife so I engineered a small frame to move it back a bit. If you don't have access to this type of activity, perhaps another top box is in order.
I agree with others; remove the CCP to help eliminate the surge.

[GTR350cc]

Surging occurs, predominately on pre-2004 models of the R series, because the Motronic ECU does not provide an infinite range of fuel maps to cope with the 40 + different blends of summer, winter, US, Euro gas that are out there. At low load and low, steady throttle openings, the map tries mightily to cope and fails.

One technique is to ride at higher rpm for each gear - over 4000, even over 4500 rpm tends to get out of the range where the system has troubles. Avoid low, steady throttle situations (in town this gets difficult, I know).

Mechanically, the valve adjust, throttle body sync and throttle position sensor setting are critical (and often badly done by your servicing dealer). Electrically, a really well charged battery, properly adjusted alternator belt, removed CCP connector, and hotter burning plugs tend to help.

Unfortunately, some of these models turn out to be basket cases and surge to some degree no matter what you do. In that case, learn to ride around the problem - higher speeds and rpm are the single best solution. Best possible gas consistently.

[WildBlue]

Agreement with all of the above and:

Synthetic will only make it noisier. Also I have never heard of an oil related engine failure on these bikes so run whatever you want in it. Castrol 20W-50 is popular in the warm months.

Surging:
See that yellow box labeled CCP? Look in your fuse box and see if there is something in that hole-should be a yellow box but it might be a different color. (If there is nothing in there, that's good.) If there is something in there, remove it and do your best Cal Ripkin wind-up and hurl it at the nearest tree.
Now, see where the fuse where the white "five" is pointing? pull that fuse and wait a few minutes then put it back in. Turn the key on but don't start the bike, turn the throttle grip all the way open, then fully closed, then fully open again, then fully closed. Turn the key off.

Now go ride your bike. the surging will be gone.

No offense intended, but can I get a 2nd opinion on the above post? What does that yellow (relay?) that we are removing do?

More info would be great, thanks!

This is BY FAR the best thing I have done to this bike.

Now to figure out where my old bike went... and who gave me this new bike!!

[mjcraft]

Thanks all for the great info for myself and the other new R riders.

This week I have done my first upgrades to the bike...

1. Installed hyperlites (2 eight LED models with R1150R bracket). They are very bright (in line of sight) and I have attempted to have them positioned especially for those tailgaters! Pretty easy install. The Pics and video don't do justice of how bright they are: http://picasaweb.google.com/mjcraft/BMWR1150R

2. Added the "brake" wire for the Kisan signal minder. The signal minder was previously installed (b/c the turn signal cancel does not work anymore) but without the brake wire, which was very annoying at stop lights...I had to keep turning the turn signal on every 10s or so. No more! I ended up finding the gray/yellow brake wire within the fuse/relay box. A big pain getting it back together, but it really isn't that bad once you figure it out. But hopefully I won't be doing that again anytime soon!

I also tried the autolites and they definitely helped...but did not solve the surging. Next I will do the valves and the Throttle body sync. I'll save launching the closed-loop Cat controller as a last resort.

Thanks again!

Michael

[FloridaBeakster]

You can easily change the oil yourself. Just get a filter, and new crush washers at the dealer. Oil at autozone, or wherever. Change it with the engine hot, and it will drain easier.

Also pick up a filter cup wrench at the auto parts store that fits the oil filter. The Rite-Fit A251 from Pep Boy's works great.