2003 R1150R Fuel Pump Screech
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2003 R1150R Fuel Pump Screech
I've just installed brass/chrome quick release fuel line couplings on my 2003 R1150R.
I let the fuel tank go to reserve before doing this job, because I decided it would be easier with the tank removed. The tank was lighter/easier to move and the job was easier to perform. BUT...
After diligently marking the fuel lines and breather hoses to avoid mixup and installing the couplings in a way that they couldn't be mixed up in the future, cursing BMW engineers for those hose clamps
Buttoning everything down, turning on the ignition, opening the throttle a few times to reset the Motronics, hit the start button, THEN THE PROBLEM:
Pushing the start button gives me a screech instead of a gentile whine. Bike doesn't want to start. I briefly started the bike but it started vibrating horribly. KILL SWITCH.
There are no leaks, the couplings are fine, I can't see any pinched hoses. Could this be as simple as the fuel being very low, making the fuel pump and engine complain?
Any ideas, anyone?
I let the fuel tank go to reserve before doing this job, because I decided it would be easier with the tank removed. The tank was lighter/easier to move and the job was easier to perform. BUT...
After diligently marking the fuel lines and breather hoses to avoid mixup and installing the couplings in a way that they couldn't be mixed up in the future, cursing BMW engineers for those hose clamps
Buttoning everything down, turning on the ignition, opening the throttle a few times to reset the Motronics, hit the start button, THEN THE PROBLEM:
Pushing the start button gives me a screech instead of a gentile whine. Bike doesn't want to start. I briefly started the bike but it started vibrating horribly. KILL SWITCH.
There are no leaks, the couplings are fine, I can't see any pinched hoses. Could this be as simple as the fuel being very low, making the fuel pump and engine complain?
Any ideas, anyone?
2003 R1150R Single Spark Non-ABS
Re: 2003 R1150R Fuel Pump Screech
Probably just the throttle body cable on the right side got unseated from the ferrule. When stuff is done to the fuel lines, this cable gets bumped up and sits on the edge of the ferrule causing lots of grief because it's not obvious what has happened. Check that first and tell us if I was right. You may have to reset the Motronic again afterwards.
Then again it may that when you had the tank off and so little gas, you tilted the gas over to the wrong side of the tank and now the fuel pump is indeed sucking air. Add gas and try again.
Then again it may that when you had the tank off and so little gas, you tilted the gas over to the wrong side of the tank and now the fuel pump is indeed sucking air. Add gas and try again.
Re: 2003 R1150R Fuel Pump Screech
Thanks Boxer, will do, and I'll post results.
2003 R1150R Single Spark Non-ABS
Re: 2003 R1150R Fuel Pump Screech
I had the same issue with my '97 and the "Add gas and try again" approach took care of it without a problem. Let's hope you have the same experience!
"I need your clothes, your boots and your motorcycle..."
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FloridaBeakster
- Lifer
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Re: 2003 R1150R Fuel Pump Screech
I had a similar issue after doing the exact same thing, only mine wouldn't start at all, just the fuel pump screech. The add gas and try again didn't work for me. What I ended up doing was disconnecting the supply side fuel line, using one of the old female QD's with a piece of hose on it, and draining some gas out of the supply side (put free end of hose in a container, turn key on). That worked for me. I figure that the line was airlocked.
-Mike
'02 R1150R
'88 R100RS
'02 R1150R
'88 R100RS
Re: 2003 R1150R Fuel Pump Screech
I just put two gallons in the tank. Screech is still there, although quieter when on sidestand (?)
If I forced it, I could've got the engine to turn over but would've had to hold the throttle open. Not wanting to damage anything, I promptly ended the gas-up experiment and I'll look for airlocks, pinches and throttle body connections tomorrow.
And this was supposed to be an upgrade... go figure.
If I forced it, I could've got the engine to turn over but would've had to hold the throttle open. Not wanting to damage anything, I promptly ended the gas-up experiment and I'll look for airlocks, pinches and throttle body connections tomorrow.
And this was supposed to be an upgrade... go figure.
2003 R1150R Single Spark Non-ABS
Re: 2003 R1150R Fuel Pump Screech
I had the same thing happen 2 weeks ago on my '03 R. Thought it was the filter plugged, but tried disconnecting then re-connecting the new QDs, and voila....no more screech. Sometimes the couplings don't seat completely and the valve is partially closed restricting the flow causing the pump to howl. Try this first and let us know.
Ron John
Ron John
Re: 2003 R1150R Fuel Pump Screech
Well, I tried the simple stuff first (even simpler than lugging a coupla gallons of gas half a mile) and discovered that I hadn't seated one of the couplers correctly. The two pieces basically fell apart in my hands. I coupled the offending coupler back together (properly, this time), turned the key. No screech, started first time. Zum zum.
Lessons learned from experience and the forum:
Gently tug on all four pieces of the QDs before thinking you're done.
Reset the Motronics before starting up (battery had been disconnected during this work). Turn on the ignition, full throttle back and forth a few times, then hit the start button.
Check any and all connections close to where the work was being done (throttle body cable may get nudged).
Don't throw away all of your old QDs. Keep a male and female plugged together in your kit (with spare rubber gaskets). I got my replacements from Beemer Boneyard, and they came with spare gaskets.
Buy some extra injector clamps (slightly different from regular hose clamps) from your local autoparts store. The OEMS are a bitch to get off, Boneyard only gives you four, I needed six. Two on each bottom hose, one on each top hose.
Take off the tank, it's almost impossible to do otherwise.
Perform only one "if it ain't broke" job at a time. I was going to replace the fuel filter while doing this job. But I'm glad I didn't because who knows what I would've torn apart to find out the source of the screech.
Lessons learned from experience and the forum:
Gently tug on all four pieces of the QDs before thinking you're done.
Reset the Motronics before starting up (battery had been disconnected during this work). Turn on the ignition, full throttle back and forth a few times, then hit the start button.
Check any and all connections close to where the work was being done (throttle body cable may get nudged).
Don't throw away all of your old QDs. Keep a male and female plugged together in your kit (with spare rubber gaskets). I got my replacements from Beemer Boneyard, and they came with spare gaskets.
Buy some extra injector clamps (slightly different from regular hose clamps) from your local autoparts store. The OEMS are a bitch to get off, Boneyard only gives you four, I needed six. Two on each bottom hose, one on each top hose.
Take off the tank, it's almost impossible to do otherwise.
Perform only one "if it ain't broke" job at a time. I was going to replace the fuel filter while doing this job. But I'm glad I didn't because who knows what I would've torn apart to find out the source of the screech.
2003 R1150R Single Spark Non-ABS
Re: 2003 R1150R Fuel Pump Screech
Yay! Ron John gets the "Guess The Malady" prize for this week! Good going. I'm glad you got it sorted out. Now go ride.
- CycleRob
- Honorary Lifer
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Re: 2003 R1150R Fuel Pump Screech
Another good tip when you change QD's and/or fuel lines is common sense to mechanics. Basically, first fill the pool before you jump in.
After it's all hooked up, turn the key ON until the fuelpump stops, then immediately OFF & ON again until the fuelpump stops again. Repeat the routine until you hear the fuelpump making "normal steady load sounds", indicating all entrapped air has been purged. Usually 4 times. Also look for fuel leaks at all 6 joints (just QD's) or 10 joints (new lines + QD's). THEN you can start the engine. Skipping this routine will result in (unnecessary) stalling and very rough running for a few seconds.
After it's all hooked up, turn the key ON until the fuelpump stops, then immediately OFF & ON again until the fuelpump stops again. Repeat the routine until you hear the fuelpump making "normal steady load sounds", indicating all entrapped air has been purged. Usually 4 times. Also look for fuel leaks at all 6 joints (just QD's) or 10 joints (new lines + QD's). THEN you can start the engine. Skipping this routine will result in (unnecessary) stalling and very rough running for a few seconds.
`09 F800ST
Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--
Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--
Re: 2003 R1150R Fuel Pump Screech
One final lesson learned.
At the time of writing.
MOA Site: 44 views, 0 replies.
This site: 113 views, 9 replies, problem solved almost immediately.
Priceless. Thanks everyone.
As for "go ride"... Last week, I bought a custom seat from Rich's in Seattle, he told me it takes about 500 miles to break it in. Tomorrow, I intend to do just that.
At the time of writing.
MOA Site: 44 views, 0 replies.
This site: 113 views, 9 replies, problem solved almost immediately.
Priceless. Thanks everyone.
As for "go ride"... Last week, I bought a custom seat from Rich's in Seattle, he told me it takes about 500 miles to break it in. Tomorrow, I intend to do just that.
2003 R1150R Single Spark Non-ABS
- iowabeakster
- Quadruple Lifer
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- Location: iowa city, ia
Re: 2003 R1150R Fuel Pump Screech
Twempie,
I see that you bought the kit from beemer boneyard. I recently bought the QD kit too. I also did 12K maintenance and ordered that kit (fuel filter and 2 more clamps included) at the same time. I also wanted new hoses. So I picked up fuel line and 4 more hose clamps at the auto parts store.
The six clamps that came from beemer boneyard, I did not like the way they worked. They just seemed too small. (Oh I wish I had a camera, pictures would make this so much easier to describe). The clamp had to be loosened to the very last thread in order to get it on the hoses. When I tightened it the clamp, the tongue (the flap beneath the screw) did not wrap around the hose and then become overlapped by the circumference band. (Does that make ANY sense?
)
The tongue was buckled upward away from the hose. This left the arc of hose beneath the screw with no pressure exerted by the clamp. The hose underneath was visibly buckled up also. Not a big deal. I bought more clamps at the store and did all 10 clamps with those bigger ones from the store.
Just wondering if you had the same problem. I was thinking of writing to beemer boneyard and recommending (in a friendly way) that they include larger clamps. After all we are doing this to reduce the chance of leaking.
I see that you bought the kit from beemer boneyard. I recently bought the QD kit too. I also did 12K maintenance and ordered that kit (fuel filter and 2 more clamps included) at the same time. I also wanted new hoses. So I picked up fuel line and 4 more hose clamps at the auto parts store.
The six clamps that came from beemer boneyard, I did not like the way they worked. They just seemed too small. (Oh I wish I had a camera, pictures would make this so much easier to describe). The clamp had to be loosened to the very last thread in order to get it on the hoses. When I tightened it the clamp, the tongue (the flap beneath the screw) did not wrap around the hose and then become overlapped by the circumference band. (Does that make ANY sense?
The tongue was buckled upward away from the hose. This left the arc of hose beneath the screw with no pressure exerted by the clamp. The hose underneath was visibly buckled up also. Not a big deal. I bought more clamps at the store and did all 10 clamps with those bigger ones from the store.
Just wondering if you had the same problem. I was thinking of writing to beemer boneyard and recommending (in a friendly way) that they include larger clamps. After all we are doing this to reduce the chance of leaking.
I was dreaming when I wrote this, forgive me if it goes astray...
Re: 2003 R1150R Fuel Pump Screech
I thought the clamps were a little on the small side. I bought more of the same size at my local Schucks (a four pack) and, like you, also had the experience of having to go down to the last thread to get them on to the hose. I almost bought one size bigger
Once the clamps were on the hose that was it, I couldn't slide them around, so I had to make sure the tightening screw was in a good place for the screwdriver. I destroyed two of the Schucks clamps because I didn't put them on exactly where I wanted them first time, and couldn't adjust, so I had to start over after bending them off the hose. I went with the size that was supplied with the QDs because they were tight and I figured tight was right. The next size up would probably have given me easier fitting options but I figured it would also mean a longer sharp-edged screw sticking out of the other side of the clamp.
I don't think the new QDs will have a leaking problem, the clamps are extremely tight and the barbs on the QDs should to their job.
The other thing I picked up from Schucks was a pair of clamps that nipped the the hose that comes out of the tank, so I didn't have to do any siphoning of gas. I nipped each hose in two places, which worked very well. I have to say, for a seemingly simple task, it was a PITA. But I'm glad it's done.
I also got the fuel filter kit from Boneyard but I'm waiting until 36k before I change it, which is only 8k away.
Once the clamps were on the hose that was it, I couldn't slide them around, so I had to make sure the tightening screw was in a good place for the screwdriver. I destroyed two of the Schucks clamps because I didn't put them on exactly where I wanted them first time, and couldn't adjust, so I had to start over after bending them off the hose. I went with the size that was supplied with the QDs because they were tight and I figured tight was right. The next size up would probably have given me easier fitting options but I figured it would also mean a longer sharp-edged screw sticking out of the other side of the clamp.
I don't think the new QDs will have a leaking problem, the clamps are extremely tight and the barbs on the QDs should to their job.
The other thing I picked up from Schucks was a pair of clamps that nipped the the hose that comes out of the tank, so I didn't have to do any siphoning of gas. I nipped each hose in two places, which worked very well. I have to say, for a seemingly simple task, it was a PITA. But I'm glad it's done.
I also got the fuel filter kit from Boneyard but I'm waiting until 36k before I change it, which is only 8k away.
2003 R1150R Single Spark Non-ABS
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boxermania
- Quadruple Lifer
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Re: 2003 R1150R Fuel Pump Screech
Twenpie
Im happy that you reached closure with your issue.
We are a lovable, happy go lucky bunch, interested in helping those in need and believing that the riding pleasure is further enhanced if you do some basic maintenence on your steed. Likewise we don't take kindly to those, like incompetent dealers and specially BMW Motorrad, that think we are idiots on two wheels when it comes to product stewardship.

Im happy that you reached closure with your issue.
We are a lovable, happy go lucky bunch, interested in helping those in need and believing that the riding pleasure is further enhanced if you do some basic maintenence on your steed. Likewise we don't take kindly to those, like incompetent dealers and specially BMW Motorrad, that think we are idiots on two wheels when it comes to product stewardship.
Member #312
06 Suzuki Burgman 650 "state of flux"
79 CBX
06 Suzuki Burgman 650 "state of flux"
79 CBX