Paralever bushing instructions say only red loctite

[macx]

Got the bushings today, read thru the instructions.

They were quite specific regarding using ONLY Loctite 270 / 2701. The instruction sheet
had another entry right alongside the number that had been crossed out, as if it had at one
time also listed the medium Loctite but later that choice had been rescinded.

Seems I've read several posts on here lately about folks using the medium / blue Loctite.
I didn't read anything that portrayed other than success with it, plus easier disassembly etc.

Did he fall prey to the spectre of a liability lawsuit (also)?

[keithbw]

I didn't use Loctite of any color on mine, also due to posts here and in ADV site citing the high torque specification for the lock nut.
I did, however, scratch said parts lightly with an awl, no movement noted yet....

Also as I said in another of your posts, I plan on removing these bushings again in the near future and I don't want to mess around with that damn heat gun again. That and the two foot breaker bar I still needed to break the nuts loose even after 30 minutes with the heat gun.

If I sell the bike, it will have the red/blue/green Loctite on all parts as called for by the OEM, whether the nuts/bushings have moved in the meantime or not. That stuff sure is a colossal pain to clean out of threads too.

[CycleRob]

I did not use red Loctite either. Because the torque spec is determined using thread locking agent, dry threads would falsify the reading . . . so I torqued them with clear nail polish on the threads. Used red Loctite between the bearing ID and pivot bolt shank OD so the bearing inner race does not spin on the Aluminum pivot bolt shank instead of the needle bearing. Without the thread locking agent there the race spins, galling the Aluminum shank's surface. That's what happened to several pivot bolt shanks I've seen. That galling causes a larger clearance fit, and play in the suspension movement. The red locktite still requires the heatgun hassle when it's time to take it apart or adjust the freeplay, but only the smaller left side bolt needs heat for inner race removal. The larger thread of the non adjustable right side pivot bolt's bonded inner race is small enough to pass thru the bigger threaded hole in the swingarm. You can see the different thread sizes in the L & R FD pivot pins with their inner races installed in the pic below. Click thumbnail, click pic that appears to enlarge it.



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[macx]

Used red Loctite between the bearing ID and pivot bolt shank OD so the bearing inner race does not spin on the Aluminum pivot bolt shank instead of the needle bearing. Without the thread locking agent there the race spins, galling the Aluminum shank's surface. .

That's one thing I was especially wondering about. Couldn't see what would prevent that from happening without the Loctite. Guess I just didn't remember that part if it had been included in what I had read. Thanks.

I would think the same reasoning would apply to the bushing on that pivot bolt. One wouldn't want the bushing spinning on the pivot bolt shank instead of inside of the cup which it would tend to do being a smaller surface area and therefore less overall friction between the 2 parts.

[keithbw]

CycleRob, you are making me think again and my head is hurting.

Solution, cut and paste your concise post.
Print, then slot it into the appropriate chapter in my Clymer manual.
Refer to later, when my head clears.

Honestly, thanks for the advice that goes way past the Clymer and the OEM service manual.

Brian