Install dshaft to trans w/o removing swingarm at FD?

[macx]

First time I had the trans out I needed to remove the rear swingarm
pivots, so getting the driveshaft onto the trans output wasn't a major
problem.

I just did some work on my trans but didn't need to disassemble the
rear swingarm to FD pivots.

Now, how to get the driveshaft snapped back onto the trans output
shaft and engaging that snap ring?

I've got the bike up on a lift so I can get under it, but it just doesn't
look like it's possible, altho I have read some posts that sounded like
folks have done this.

I've got the FD & swingarm assy suspended from the shock but now
what?

There must be a way but I haven't figured it out yet. I don't see any
way to get ahold of that driveshaft good enuf to pop the snap ring
into the groove on the trans output shaft.

I'd rather not disassemble those rear pivots if I don't have to.

Thanks for any tips!

[CycleRob]

macx,

It likely is a mystery to you because of how you took it apart. The correct way to remove the swingarm WITH the FD attached is to pry the U-joint off the back of the trans output shaft with a large screwdriver so the internal wire snapring "pops" out of it's grove on the tranny output shaft. Then the driveshaft can be slid off the tranny shaft and rearward as far as it'll go. Lastly, keep the driveshaft collapsed rearward and move it off the bike together with the swingarm/FD assembly. That keeps the driveshaft together and with the U-joints "phased" the way the last person assembled them. You'll be able to visually check that phasing buy slipping off the FD boot bellows and comparing them. If the driveshaft separates from the rear U-joint, you'll have to pop the rear U-joint off to reassemble it with both U-joints "in phase" like this thumbnail pic takes you to:



On reassembly, there are 2 ways to do it:

1-- Pop the phased U-joint driveshaft onto the tranny shaft snapring first and feed it into the swingarm/FD assembly as it goes together. After the pivot bolts are snugged up by hand, use the prybar against the swingarm housing to pop the rear U-joint onto it's internal snapring retainer.

2-- Pop the phased U-joint driveshaft onto the FD pinion shaft first and engage the front U-joint splines as the swingarm pivot bolt holes are aligned. Then use the prybar against the swingarm housing to pop the front U-joint onto it's internal snapring retainer.

When you remove the FD on disassembly like I did, you almost have to use method number 1. On using either method, just be sure the phased driveshaft, where the U-Joint inner yoke bearing centers line up does not fall apart as you are maneuvering the swingarm/FD assembly into place.

Edit: To change to a faster, better photo provider.
.

[macx]

I didn't think the housing would go far enuf forward to force the
driveshaft onto the trans output shaft / snapring. That's one I'll
have to remember.

I got the shaft back together and phased OK without taking the
housing off the FD. Stood it on end, open end up, took a long
rod and positioned the FD splined shaft straight up, then carefully
lowered the driveshaft over it. With the boot removed from the
trans end of the housing, I could see down inside the housing
with a small flashlight to make sure I got them phased OK. That
wasn't a big problem.

I suspended the housing / FD so I could move it back and forth a little,
pulled the driveshaft a little ways out of the front of the housing enuf
so I could see that it was engaging the output shaft splines. I then used a
small prybar with the upper end in the Ujoint and a block between the
lower end and the lower part of the trans, then tapped on the upper
part of the prybar just below the joint. With the lower end of the prybar
blocked from moving forward, that transferred most of the
force from the tapping into the U joint and it popped on.

It was "fun" getting that boot on, too, even with lubing the inside of it
where it pops over the lip on the trans. It's just hard to get at.

Never would have made it without the bike being up on the lift.

I didn't disconnect any of the clutch lines to try to avoid the hassle
with bleeding the slave. But when I got the slave installed, of course
having to compress the slave against the end of the pushrod, I don't
have clutch disengagement. Tried by shifting the trans into gear
then working the clutch lever while trying to rotate the wheel.
Didn't release. Looks like another bleeding fight. One battle after another.