Has anyone lowered their headlight?

[Soliton]

Hi guys,

Have any of you lowered your headlight? Why would you do such a thing I hear you ask? Currently the centreline of the headlight on an R1150r sits parallel with an imaginary line drawn through the top third of the fuel tank.

Here is a picture of the bike to show what I mean.


On many italian bikes you will notice that the lights centreline sits at about the centreline of the tank.


From an aesthetic perspective this looks nicer and in the case of the 1150 it is only about a 40mm drop which "looks" fairly simple. The R1200r is closer to this ratio.

I was interested to know if there where any "gotchas". I am already taking the tank off to put on a headlight relay and do some re-wiring and thought I might have a crack at it over the Christmas break.

No matter what, have a ripper Christmas guys!

Soliton

[sweatmark]

Is that R1150R image real or photoshopped? Regardless, it rocks.

What about using the VRSC headlight? It already has the top-to-bottom front edge slant that mimics the Roadster's beak fender. Custom mounts might be required to tie into existing Telelever top clamp fixtures.

VRSC headlight on streetfighter:



Google the headlight for many other custom bike project applications.

[Soliton]

It is a little shopped to remove the centre stand etc but it's my bike. I am in the process of bobbing it and I got the photoshopping done to ensure it wouldn't be hideous to look at after I had finished the job.

I wanted to keep all of the original design cues but take it to the place it should have gone. The original designer did a great job but had to make something with very broad appeal and my aim is to finish the last 20% to my taste. I don't ever have a passenger so I could do some stuff that a lot of other people my not be pleased with.

The bike will always look "chesty" and I was seeking to emphasise that. My design cue was a bobcat / lynx.

The "beak" is an essential part of the original aesthetic so it will definitely stay. The hugger was a necessity but I wanted to make one myself and it wasn't that hard. The mounting is harder than the making.

Thanks for the compliment. I love the look but I know it isn't to everyone's taste. Bikes are like girlfriends you still choose them with your heart, and this is strong, agile, dependable but still exciting enough to let your heart sing when you open it up, just like my actual girlfriend .

[omg1010]

Hi soliton,

do you have photos from the rear as well? What tail section is that and what mods have you applied to the tail? The bike looks great by the way! Congrats!

Brgds
Oliver

[Boxer]

After a number of years, my first wife's headlights lowered automatically.

[grwrockster]

After a number of years, my first wife's headlights lowered automatically

As for the bike Soliton.... what a cracker! Understated, functional, purposeful - not tarty but tasty.

I think I can see what you mean about the headlight and the lines of the bike (though I'll admit I'd never have made the jump without a prompt - it looks great in profile as is anyhow). My first thought was the hadlight brackets for the Rockster, as they angle down and I think they might site the headlamp a bit lower than the 'R' ones? Or is it just an illusion created by the angled brackets? I've no idea how much hassle it would be to get some/fit some to an R either - just a random thought.

[sweatmark]

My first thought was the hadlight brackets for the Rockster, as they angle down and I think they might site the headlamp a bit lower than the 'R' ones? Or is it just an illusion created by the angled brackets? I've no idea how much hassle it would be to get some/fit some to an R either - just a random thought.

Good idea, but the Rockster's Telelever top clamp is cast with "ears" on each side that provide fixture for the front brackets, attached via 2 Torx bolts on each. The Roadster uses a different strategy for attachment of the instruments and the steel headlight bracket.

Speaking of which, the steel headlight bracket (P/N 62112306971) could be tweaked or offset from the mounting position under Roadster top clamp, in order to lower the OE headlight. Not aware of anyone who's done so.

My vote is still for the VRSC headlamp or similar, since it already possesses the front-to-back slant that would mimic the Roadster beak.

[omg1010]

Mornin guys and gals,

a few considerations from my side. First of all you need to measure the space between the headlamp and the front fender to see if there is enough free play. Secondly when lowering the headlamp it means you get added space between the headlight and the instrument cluster which may result in a loss of proportion ... Or you would have to adjust the instrument cluster accordingly - which would be a difficult task.

Food for thought.

I would still be interested to know what was done / what parts were used to modify the tail section of the bike and where the number plate/tail-light has gone ...

Brgds
Oliver

[Soliton]

See the message below. (Sorry made an error with the first attempts at posting.)

[Soliton]

Hi Oliver,

I wanted to maintain the basic design cues so aftermarket shapes were out unless they worked with the existing lines

I have :

• Used the existing tail light holder but trimmed it along the bottom to remove the lump of the number plate light and the mudflap.
  Removed all of the mounting pegs for the passenger foot pegs and the system cases. A Dremel with a fine ceramic cutting blade is your friend.
  Replaced the tail light lens with a smoked aftermarket integrated one. The integrated LEDs are appalling so I am rebuilding the light with 10mm 280,000 mcd LEDS. I put a resistor on everyone of them to ensure multiple redundancy. When you re-wire the tail and indicator lights you will have cable everywhere. To solve this I bought a Deutsch DT series connector and I am in the process of tidying up all the wiring to have a single cable with a sturdy connector that can be unclipped for maintenance. The Deutsch connectors are used on earthmoving equipment and are very well made. Make sure you buy the "stamped and formed" style and you can use a standard crimping tool or just pair of pliers.
  The seat is aftermarket and I got it second hand and sprayed it black with shoe paint.
  The area behind the seat is a BMW luggage plate. I am thinking of replacing it with a customs anodised aluminium version, I will keel the mounting pints form the original and glue and screw them onto the aluminium plate. Aluminium is cheap and I have access to a lot of metal working and polishing gear (my friends make reproduction 16th century armour.)
  Bought a full subframe for $50 from a mob called Pinwall parts off eBay. I have kept all the original parts so if in the future I sell the bike the new owner can restore it to standard. I am not sure if I will continue with this tactic.
  The side panels are standard but re-trimmed.

Non tail end mods:

• Replaced the dash indicator lights with LEDs
  New fly screen made with black ABS
  Dobeck fuel injection intercepter
  Eastern beaver headlight relay
  Kisan signal minder to cancel the indicators and make the LEDs play nicely
  Modern left hand side cam-chain tensioner.
  Black wheels (Patience, good prep and a rattle can of matt black enamel)
  Same applies for all other black parts except the engine. I used hight temp engine enamel for that. Don't use it on parts that don't get hot or it won't cure properly.
  Remus 2 into 1 catalytic converter replacement
  Neptune muffler (a stunning engine note but if I did it again I might just keep the cat and use a stainless shell exhaust tip and save a bucket of cash

Planned additions:

• K1200s mirrors
  Ceramic coating on the pipes.
  Rebuild the Right hand side throttle body.
  Externally mount the fuel filter.
  Lower the headlight
  Re-mould the tail light assembly in carbon fibre
  Make anew hugger that is a touch wider. The existing one is my first attempt and although I was incredibly pleased with it I know I can do better. Do it yourself carbon fibre is cheap and easy.
  Mount the number plate on the hugger
  Replace all the allen bolts on the engine with polished stainless steel.
  Spoked wheels
  A full LED headlight (I am fiddling with that now.)
  Wilbers shock front and rear.
  Consider a dual outlet underseat exhaust.....Note I said consider. My partner said I can spend as much of my "play money" on the bike as I want but no consolidate revenue.

The bike currently has the long tail on it, as the short one needs number plate mounts and better LEDS for the indicators to make it legal and safe.

Its a big list but it can be done reasonable inexpensively using a bit of imagination , second hand parts and time. The exhaust changes were the most expensive thing. I have no intention of greatly altering the engine. It is reliable ,and has the power exactly where I most use it.

I have worked on the engine only to the extent of ensuring that it is a mechanically sound as possible or to incorporate things that are good sense, not to increase the power. The changes are nearly all cosmetic rebuilding of the body or alterations to the paint work.

As I said in my earlier post I love the look of the basic design and i want to keep true to that ,but modify it to the place I feel it should logically have had an option to go. It's a hobby and something to do on the weekend but as an everyday ride I cannot afford to have it off the road for long periods of time (generally the weekend only). It is definitely not a show pony. It has travelled over thousands of kms of dirt and been injectors deep in a river, and yet it she is still cable of holding her own on the highway.

Does that cover it?

[omg1010]

Did you cut the rear subframe in order to shorten the whole tail section? And what did you do with the plastics? Just cut and trim or did you have to remodel some parts?

Very nice work indeed!

Brgds
Oliver

[core10metal]

I definitely think the headlight needs lowering, as well as all the gauges. It just sits up too high for my taste. I'm stripping the bike for paint soon and I may fabricate something new for the headlight to sit lower. I'll keep you posted.

[Soliton]

Hi Oliver,

As I mentioned in the first posting this is a work in progress (read not currently roadworthy in bobbed form) but,

The subframe needs to be shortened behind the seat lock but the rear cross member (the flat drilled section that runs transversely across the rear of the boat tail) needs to be retained an re-welded. ( A TIG welder is your friend.)

I also removed all the locater points for the system cases and trimmed the passenger foot peg mounts right back, leaving enough to hold the muffler and protect the seat lock point.

The seat carrier needs to be remodelled as the boat tail is narrower than the subframe at the seat lock area.

The undersea requires shortening and "shallowing" as well but make sure you don't damage the piece where the rear seat locator peg sits.

The tail needs to be trimmed down to remove the mudflap. I used integrated tail and indicators so the wiring also needed to be re-routed and I am also re-building the LED array as I think it is poorly made. I am trying a different method from my last LED re-build and will advise how it goes. If all runs according to plan it should be a LOT simpler to fabricate.

It is very hard to "normalise" - (get an even original finish) the plastic on the tail if it gets oxidised or scratched. I intend to carbon fibre and paint it. I could leave it "naked" but I am concerned it may look a bit posey.

Unlike some Ducati's this is NOT a trivial task. If I had known how much work was involved I may instead have done things differently. If one had all the time in the world (I don't, I have a full time job and kids) and a fully equipped work shop it would probably be only a few days work. I an addition there are no how-to guides. Everything has been "suck-it-and-see"

I am not trying to be a pessimistic bastard but it was not a job that had to be done, and apart from being a little lighter it doesn't make the bike run better. It is an absolutely discretionary activity of moderate complexity, welding, metal fabrication, plastic fabrication, electronics, carbon fibre ( and the capacity to deal with the feeling of "sh&t, I have fuc#$ed that up beyond repair")

I still think it will look pretty good though

core10metal - I would be interested to hear about your adventures in headlight modification.

[omg1010]

Soliton, as said earlier, this is awesome work! Well done! It would have been great to take pics of the work in progress. I have taken the liberty to post your photo in our German boxerspeed forum and quite a few guys have asked about how you did it ...

Brgds
Oliver

[Soliton]

Oliver,

You asked for some "on the way" pictures. I have been a bit lazy and hadn't posted any but here is a link.

http://s1189.photobucket.com/albums/z422/BMW_R1150R/

Use the "Next" option to scroll through the rest of the build pictures. (Build bilder for the German speakers among us. Suspect cross-linguistic pun.)

I still need to:
- Build a better under seat section. I am thinking of using carbon fibre.
- Re jig the tail and seat carrier arrangement. (It looks OK but I am fussy)
- Mould the side panels inwards at the rear. Shortening the tail means that they are cut at a point that makes them look wider at the back. moulding them in at the rear will curve the tail in a bit.

Give you guys a yell when i have more to show.

[omg1010]

Awsome! Have posted the link in our German boxerspeed forum ...

By the way I have done it. I have become disloyal and have decided to buy myself a new bike (although I'll keep my 1100R for some time). My new baby below.

2008, 10 000 kms on the clock, ABS, Ohlins shocks, heated grips, alarm ... for a mere 5500 euros (equals approx 7000 USD).

Brgds
Oliver

[omg1010]

Oliver,

You asked for some "on the way" pictures. I have been a bit lazy and hadn't posted any but here is a link.

http://s1189.photobucket.com/albums/z422/BMW_R1150R/

Use the "Next" option to scroll through the rest of the build pictures. (Build bilder for the German speakers among us. Suspect cross-linguistic pun.)

I still need to:
- Build a better under seat section. I am thinking of using carbon fibre.
- Re jig the tail and seat carrier arrangement. (It looks OK but I am fussy)
- Mould the side panels inwards at the rear. Shortening the tail means that they are cut at a point that makes them look wider at the back. moulding them in at the rear will curve the tail in a bit.

Give you guys a yell when i have more to show.

Me again ...

some German comrades say that in order to make your bike look more decent you need to replace: headlamp, mirrors and front fender. Also our folks say that your welding and the numberplate holders look pretty much "country-style" ... Reason is that in Germany welding on the rear frame and all primary structures is not permitted (or only with a welding assessment). Thats why we Germans are a bit fussy about these things ...

Brgds
Oliver

[Xdot]

Awsome! Have posted the link in our German boxerspeed forum ...

By the way I have done it. I have become disloyal and have decided to buy myself a new bike (although I'll keep my 1100R for some time). My new baby below.

2008, 10 000 kms on the clock, ABS, Ohlins shocks, heated grips, alarm ... for a mere 5500 euros (equals approx 7000 USD).

Brgds
Oliver

Oliver, ich hasse dich! Das ist was ich will!

[Soliton]

I don't disagree with the assessment regarding the headlight and the mirrors. The rectangular mirrors from the K1200 are a much nicer look and you will note from my original post that I wanted to lower the headlight and perhaps resize it. I am not keen to change the front fender however, it is very much a part of the original design aesthetic and a quintessential part of this models look. I may change it but at the moment I am loathe to do so (I understand the K1200s guard will fit.)

Country style (ouch). I am pretty certain that re-welding bits of the bike is not really OK here either however it is a non-load bearing area, difficult to see and invisible to all but the cognoscenti. I made a risk assessment (and I have a full sub-frame untouched if I was ever forced to replace it. Technically an integrated tail light is also illegal here as the indicators must be 180mm apart (Australian Design Rules -ADR.) I am not desirous of grossly flouting the rules so i may fiddle with the rear lighting t make it more conform ant.

My initial go at LED rear lighting worked but I had a second attempt and I heartily recommend buying good quality LED globes from SuperBrightLEDS in the US. They are a straight replace and are very bright. (Not cheap though.) If I had used these globes at the beginning I probably would have saved money however, as I tried a number of inferior LED globes and eventually tried making my own using the components and soldering up all the bits. It is much quicker brighter and easier to use the direct swap globes but it is essential to get good ones otherwise they are not bright enough.

[omg1010]

@soliton

Well don't worry, I've told our guys that Rome wasn't built in a day and that you still have some work ahead of you ....

@xdot

I hear you loud and clear! I suggest you go for what you want ... The R1200S is one of the cheapest of the 1200 models available. Just do some searching and go out and get it! Thats what I have done.

Brgds
Oliver