Starter/Solenoid/Relay assessment
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chrissnapp
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Starter/Solenoid/Relay assessment
so, my 2003 R1150R cranks, slowly, once or twice before it stops and click-click-clicks...
i assume "battery" is the problem - but it's fully charged. (I take it to a shop to double-check the accuracy of my 10/2 fully automatic, deep cycle charger and they confirm it's charged)
i did not "load-test" the battery.
crossing the solenoid contacts creates same slow-crank-twice-then-clicking effect.
bypassing the solenoid and crossing the contacts on the starter, I hear it spin freely (light brushing noise emitting regularly).
i unplug the starter relay and nothing happens.
so, how do i determine if it's the starter relay, starter solenoid or starter itself?
i assume "battery" is the problem - but it's fully charged. (I take it to a shop to double-check the accuracy of my 10/2 fully automatic, deep cycle charger and they confirm it's charged)
i did not "load-test" the battery.
crossing the solenoid contacts creates same slow-crank-twice-then-clicking effect.
bypassing the solenoid and crossing the contacts on the starter, I hear it spin freely (light brushing noise emitting regularly).
i unplug the starter relay and nothing happens.
so, how do i determine if it's the starter relay, starter solenoid or starter itself?
- CycleRob
- Honorary Lifer
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Re: Starter/Solenoid/Relay assessment
It needs to be load tested. Just measuring the voltage isn't a good test as that will also show a surface charge as a full charge. You can perform a simple shade tree mechanic's load test using the headlight and brake light. Here's how:
Confirm your horn works OK with the bike running. Turn the bike off. Turn on the key and restrain the front brake lever so the rear taillight stays on, then blow the horn. If it works OK, leave the key/headlight/brakelight on for 5 minutes, then blow the horn again. If the headlight gets dim and yellow colored the battery is dead. If the horn doesn't work so good again, or didn't work the first time, the battery is dead.
My guess is your battery is dead and must be replaced.
.
Confirm your horn works OK with the bike running. Turn the bike off. Turn on the key and restrain the front brake lever so the rear taillight stays on, then blow the horn. If it works OK, leave the key/headlight/brakelight on for 5 minutes, then blow the horn again. If the headlight gets dim and yellow colored the battery is dead. If the horn doesn't work so good again, or didn't work the first time, the battery is dead.
My guess is your battery is dead and must be replaced.
.
`09 F800ST
Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--
Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--
Re: Starter/Solenoid/Relay assessment
I ride a 2004 1150R with just over 10K miles.
I had the identical problem last spring while on a solo ride 275 miles from home and 9K on my odometer. My symptoms included one or two good cranks and, if no start, the solenoid click. I immediately assumed that it was a dead battery. Jump starting worked fine as long as I was on a hill. Finally had to confront the problem on level ground where I couldn't jump start it.
Turned out that it was my starter motor. The inside was so gummed up with thick black gunk that the gear simply wouldn't turn. In fact, when taken apart, it couldn't be turned with a screwdriver used as a lever. Had to replace the entire starter. My 1150R has run perfectly since.
I checked R1150R.Net when I got home but didn't see any reports of similar problems. Yours is the first.
I had the identical problem last spring while on a solo ride 275 miles from home and 9K on my odometer. My symptoms included one or two good cranks and, if no start, the solenoid click. I immediately assumed that it was a dead battery. Jump starting worked fine as long as I was on a hill. Finally had to confront the problem on level ground where I couldn't jump start it.
Turned out that it was my starter motor. The inside was so gummed up with thick black gunk that the gear simply wouldn't turn. In fact, when taken apart, it couldn't be turned with a screwdriver used as a lever. Had to replace the entire starter. My 1150R has run perfectly since.
I checked R1150R.Net when I got home but didn't see any reports of similar problems. Yours is the first.
Buff
Red 2004 R1150R
Maryland
Red 2004 R1150R
Maryland
Re: Starter/Solenoid/Relay assessment
The latest BMW ON has a good article on cleaning the Roadster's starter.
"When life throws you a curve lean into it"
Proud member since 2001; #17(Life)
Proud member since 2001; #17(Life)
Re: Starter/Solenoid/Relay assessment
Here's how you can do a more complete job.......bmwdave52 wrote:The latest BMW ON has a good article on cleaning the Roadster's starter.
http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/sq ... tarter.pdf
j magda
TripleLifer Member 454
04 Black (the Classiest Color) R1150R
Deep in the OH wasteland...
TripleLifer Member 454
04 Black (the Classiest Color) R1150R
Deep in the OH wasteland...
- MoonBeemer
- Basic User
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- Joined: Sun Sep 12, 2010 1:37 pm
Re: Starter/Solenoid/Relay assessment
Thank you very much for this post. My R1150R starter makes this sound. I have been worrying about this. Thanks again. I will attempt the repair. Take care. Roger
2004 R1150R
Re: Starter/Solenoid/Relay assessment
My bike would not start yesterday morning (emitting some strange chirping noise but no clicks trying to excite the starter motor) and I assumed it is the battery and left it to charge. When it was fully charged, I tried starting it again and same thing happened but this time I noticed the noises comimng from the fuse/relay box. I opened it up and every time i turn the ignition key same chirping noise comes on. On closer look/feel I noted that the chirping noise/slight vibration is coiming from the starter relay and two smaller relays next to the starter relay. When I press the start button the chirpong noise just increases a bit and goes on until I turn off the ignition key.
I have opened and cleaned the starter as diescribed in the instructions posted by one of the members on this topic and found it in good condition. So it is not the starter.
What could it be? Voltage measured at charging is 13.6 and 12.9V after one or two attempts to start with that chirpoing noise.
Is it relay or the battery has no more juice to start? It did work OK until yesterday.
I have opened and cleaned the starter as diescribed in the instructions posted by one of the members on this topic and found it in good condition. So it is not the starter.
What could it be? Voltage measured at charging is 13.6 and 12.9V after one or two attempts to start with that chirpoing noise.
Is it relay or the battery has no more juice to start? It did work OK until yesterday.
Re: Starter/Solenoid/Relay assessment
It figures that one of my first posts on this board would be regarding a breakdown with my new to me 2002 R1150R!
Yup, same thing, a few sad sounding whirls from the starter and then nuttin'.
A few buddies and I tested the battery before we stripped out the starter. The starter was caked in a black and silver powder. A few blasts of air and some WD40, she was spinning free and smooth again.
Slapped it back on the bike and I was good to go!
Now the real question- do I purchase a backup starter off fleabay or BeemerBoneyard or wait until it fails again.
Based on what I've seen- BB sells new Valeo starters for $200, fleabay has a Caltric starter for $90, and of course a few used ones priced starting at $50. Which one would be the best for a spare?
Yup, same thing, a few sad sounding whirls from the starter and then nuttin'.
A few buddies and I tested the battery before we stripped out the starter. The starter was caked in a black and silver powder. A few blasts of air and some WD40, she was spinning free and smooth again.
Slapped it back on the bike and I was good to go!
Now the real question- do I purchase a backup starter off fleabay or BeemerBoneyard or wait until it fails again.
Based on what I've seen- BB sells new Valeo starters for $200, fleabay has a Caltric starter for $90, and of course a few used ones priced starting at $50. Which one would be the best for a spare?
Re: Starter/Solenoid/Relay assessment
I have a stock original starter made by Valeo from a R1150R that you can have for $55 with $11 for shipping to your provided destination. I bought it from Leo on this web site for a spare and hope to never need it. He said it was working fine when he took it off and I cleaned it up and checked it out with no problems. Just an offer otherwise it will remain on my self
Re: Starter/Solenoid/Relay assessment
PM sent. THANKS!Hottech wrote:I have a stock original starter made by Valeo from a R1150R that you can have for $55 with $11 for shipping to your provided destination. I bought it from Leo on this web site for a spare and hope to never need it. He said it was working fine when he took it off and I cleaned it up and checked it out with no problems. Just an offer otherwise it will remain on my self
Re: Starter/Solenoid/Relay assessment
As I was about to leave on a three day ride to the Catskills Mountains, the starter finally spit the bit.
My friends and I bumped started her and I rode it home. Luckily, the starter I bought of Mitch arrived earlier this week. We swapped it out and we were headed north in under 30 minutes.
Thanks agin Mitch!
My friends and I bumped started her and I rode it home. Luckily, the starter I bought of Mitch arrived earlier this week. We swapped it out and we were headed north in under 30 minutes.
Thanks agin Mitch!