ABS service

[iowabeakster]

I didn't get the PM...

are you talking about this?



Just a hex key should do it. Those caps can break pretty easily. Be gentle. If it is stuck, I would give it a series of light taps with the handle of a screwdriver or something.

...or are you talking about something else?

[motojoe]

IA-beakster,
yes that is the cap. With the plastic drain tube off to the side , I only get 1/4 turn before it hits the motronics. So how does it come off?
Thanks
The PM was my first attempt sorry if it didn't make it.
Joe

[iowabeakster]

motojoe,

The cap is acutally two pieces (three if you count the rubber seal underneath). The drain tube nipple is on a ring that spins freely around the shaft of the cap. The cap shaft threads down into the ABS module. You should be able to loosen the cap, and keep the nipple from spinning.

In the picture below you can see the small separation between the cap and ring. I didn't take this picture with the intention of showing this, so it is not ideal. Behind the syringe, you can see the cap removed, with the small space between the top of the cap and ring.

[motojoe]

IA-beakster:
Out freakin standing! I new there was something off about this set up that wansn't adding up. Clearly a case of too obvious to to see. Seems to happen to me more and more sad to say. This forum is the best.
Joe

[SecondWind]

IOWA Beekster.....I met you at Hungry Mother 2 years ago and I hope that you are doing fine. How is the Pizza Business? Anyway, thank you so much for your vast amounts of time that you took to document and take pic's of the R1150R ABS bleed for us simpletons out here> I REALLY APPRECIATE IT!


Thanks again and hope to see you again!


Regards;
Paul Radike

[chibbert]

Really thorough and impressive write-up - Great work!
Thanks for posting this. I'm not sure I want to try it myself but I know of a great resource now should I decide to.

Chris

[iowabeakster]

Thanks Paul and Chris...

If it helps the simpletons, that's because a simpleton wrote it up. Maybe, I'm not simple...but I am damn cheap. I remembered (years ago) that MikeCam requested somebody to take some pictures and write something up. I didn't have a (working, digital) camera back then. So, I finally got around to it last year.

I really wish I was joining in the merriment at Hungry Mother this year... blah blah blah....poor me...not gonna make it. It was great to meet Paul (and all the others)...and would like to meet you too some day, Chris. Have fun... and blast up Highway 16 once for me!

[CycleRob]

iowabeakster,
That pictorial outline was as good or better than any I've seen. Extremely well done. Printers worldwide will be stacking color printouts on this one. Treating the users like experienced novices is the best route, as it eliminates any doubt or chance of making messy or time consuming mistakes. Even the red letter legal disclaimer was wise.

I'll PM you the additional "enhancement" that fully flushes the caliper piston chambers of old fluid. It was the only improvement I could find.


.

[iowabeakster]

ALTERNATIVE PROCEDURE FOR SECTIONS II and III

Special Note: If your bike has not been serviced according to schedule, there is a risk of pushing some nasty gunk into the ABS unit by following the standard procedure. This could result in the ABS unit's failure. By following the instructions below, that possibility can be avoided. The ALTERNATIVE PROCEDURE is also to ensure that every last drop of rotten brake fluid is expelled from the system. I would guess that the standard procedure (and the others linked at the very beginning) would result in a 92% flush of the system. The standard procedure is for those who have been doing the service on time. In my experience (doing the service on time), the "old" fluid is still in excellent condition. There would be no need to use this alternative procedure. The alternative procedure will get you to 99% flush... for those who need to get it all out and might risk gunking up the ABS unit.

If you are using the ALTERNATIVE PROCEDURE, you will still need to do sections I, IV, V, and VI from the standard procedure.

Also, special thanks to Cyclerob. He informed me that there may be people who have not been doing this service as specified. I had not given any thought to that situation. Hence, this special ALTERNATIVE for those folks.

ALTERNATIVE outline SECTION II.

II. ALTERNATIVE--Flushing the rear wheel circuit
-----A. Flush ABS unit and brake line to bleed nipple
---------1.Open reservoir
---------2. Draw off old fluid
---------3.Fill reservoir with fresh fluid
---------4. Attach filling device and fill with fresh fluid
---------5. Attach tubing to bleed nipple and open bleeder, 8mm
---------6. Turn on bike
---------7. Operate rear brake pedal
---------8. Flush until fluid is bubble free and brand new fluid is exiting nipple
---------9. Close bleed valve
---------10. Turn off bike
---------11. Remove filling device
-----B. Removing rear caliper and brake pads
---------1. Remove the rubber grommet holding wheel sensor wire.
---------2. Clip zip-tie...
---------3. Remove retaining clip...
---------4. Drive retaining pin out
---------5. Remove two caliper bolts, T45s
---------6. Lift caliper clear of rotor
-----*C. Cleaning caliper and pistons
---------1. Remove carrier from caliper...
---------2. Extend pistons...
---------3. Clean pistons and caliper...
------D. Pushing old fluid out of caliper...
---------1. Fill reservoir with fresh fluid
---------2. Apply pressure to brake pedal
---------3.Open bleed valve
---------4. Now push the pistons fully into caliper
---------5. Close bleed valve.
---------6. Pump brake pedal to extend pistons... again
---------7. Repeat steps 1-6 again
---------8. Repeat steps 1-6 again
---------9. Repeat sets 1-6 again
---------10. Repeat steps 1-5 again
-----E. Reinstalling rear caliper
-----------1. Replace carrier to caliper
-----------2. Replace brake pads
-----------3. Replace holding pin
-----------4. Replace caliper on rotor
-----------5. Torque caliper bolts--40 nm
-----------6. Replace retaining clip
-----------7. Replace rubber grommet for wheel sensor wire
-----------8. Replace new zip-tie
-----F. Checking fluid level
-----------1. Operate rear brake to extend pistons and set pads against rotor
-----------2. Final check of fluid level
-----------3. Close cap on reservoir


II. Flushing rear wheel circuit... special ALTERNATIVE edition detailed instructions

A. Flush ABS unit and brake line to bleed nipple

1.Open reservoir
Note on the reservoir caps: The caps on the ABS unit are plastic. They are not very robust (I broke one overtightenting my first time). I use a hex (6mm I believe) socket...with no ratchet. Finger tight on the socket is good enough to seal the rubber gasket, that is all you need to do. The older style ABS unit used a 19mm nut on the caps.


2. Draw off old fluid
I use a big syringe. Some people use a turkey baster, I can't imagine that it could reach very far down the hole.


3.Fill reservoir with fresh fluid
Inside the reservoir there is a white plastic crossbar. This has always been my mark for filling fluid in the reservoirs.


4. Attach filling device and fill with fresh fluid
Most people use a filling device like this one available from Beemer Boneyard.
http://www.beemerboneyard.com/abs3funnel.html
They might make one themselves with the instructions below.
http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/ab ... dapter.pdf
Or they might make one using various things and doodads. All serve the same purpose...to provide a extra large reservoir of fresh fluid as they use the servo motor to blow out the old fluid and pull in fresh stuff. Here is mine...pretty fancy huh? It is a (pink) baby bottle ($1.29 from Walgreens), a rubber band, and a piece of clear tubing connected to the nipple on the reservoir cap. The bottle rests on the intake snorkel and the rubber band holds the bottle stretched around rigid brake lines.

If my type of setup is used, you will need to remove the black tubing from the nipple on the cap. The nipple has a barb holding the hose secure. I've already mentioned the fragility of the plastic caps. To avoid breaking the nipple off, slice the black tubing off with a utility knife, and the replace the tubing with new tubing when finished. The piece is only about 6 inches long and joins the "Y" connector just downstream.

I like my setup because I can stop the flush process whenever I want. If you have a "funnel on top", you can't remove the funnel until it is completely empty... or you'll have a mess.

Whatever type of filling device is used, install it, and fill with with fresh brake fluid.

5. Attach tubing to bleed nipple and open bleeder, 8mm
Special ALTERNATIVE note: This picture is borrowed from the standard procedure. If doing the ALTERNATIVE procedure, your caliper should not be removed yet!
Now, attach tubing to the bleed nipple on the caliper, and run the tubing into a can or something (bleed bag) where the used fluid will empty into. I use the catch basin that came with my Mityvac (not used in this procedure at all). In the picture, notice that I use a small clamp to help prevent any accidental "pop-offs" of the tubing from the nipple. That makes me mad when that happens. Now, open the bleed nipple. Gravity will start the flushing process. Notice the fluid filling the tubing. If you were extremely patient, you could let gravity do all the work. But...where's the fun in that? With my filling device, fresh fluid starts crawling from the baby bottle through the tubing into the reservoir, at the same time.


6. Turn on bike
Now for the fun...

7. Operate rear brake pedal
Pressing the rear pedal will operate the servo motor. The servo provides a "power flush". This is something like a pressure bleeding system. The more the pedal is pushed, the faster the flush. Don't run out of fluid at the top! Keep an eye on your filling device.

8. Flush until fluid is bubble free and brand new fluid is exiting nipple
Then, release the brake pedal.

9. Close bleed valve

10. Turn off bike

special ALTERNATIVE note: Now you have clean fluid in the system from the ABS unit to the bleed nipple. But still have old fluid in the caliper. We need to get that next.

11. Remove filling device.
Make sure if you have a funnel type device, that it is not full of fluid.

B. Removing rear caliper and brake pads
In order to clear out the caliper, it must be taken off.


1. Remove the rubber grommet holding wheel sensor wire.
After the grommet is out of the small bracket...set it aside for safe keeping. It is split so it will come off of the wire. I leave the wheel sensor in place. This is because I don't like to remove it more than necessary. The sensor passes all the way through the final drive housing. Removing it will leave the final drive vulnerable to dust and dirt that could fall inside. The far side of the sensor is certainly covered with brake dust.


2. Clip zip-tie...


3. Remove retaining clip...
Needle nose pliers help with this... (very observant people will notice I got ahead of myself and removed the front caliper bolt in this
picture)


4. Drive retaining pin out
Use a drift pin, punch or any nail with a diameter smaller than the pin will work. A couple of taps with a hammer (pushing the pin towards the muffler)...and presto.


5. Remove two caliper bolts, T45s

6. Lift caliper clear of rotor
Be careful not to bang the caliper against your beautiful wheels. It is suggested that painting tape (a.k.a. masking tape)be applied to the wheel so that the paint is not scratched. Since the retaining pin is already out, the pads will probably just fall out as the caliper
clears the rotor. Maybe they won't...just be aware and be ready to catch them.


I forgot to take a picture of the springy inside the caliper. Notice the arrow points in the direction of rotor spin. This might fall out, it is just held by small tabs. Just mount it back before putting the pads back in, with the arrow pointing the correct direction. Photo credit to Cyclerob.


*C. Cleaning caliper and pistons
This does not need to be done annually. I did it the first time last year (bike 4 years old). But I liked it so much, I will do it every time. I hate the idea of pushing the dirty pistons inside the caliper (a few steps down the road). The first time it took a bit of scrubbing, this time it only took a few seconds. Brake fluid is a great solvent. If the grime is persistent, allow the fluid to dissolve the grime for a few minutes...then it will come off very easily. Below is a picture of a front caliper. It's the same idea for all the calipers. I forgot to take a picture of the rear. Notice the ring of grime on the pistons. This is what needs to be cleaned.


1. Remove carrier from caliper...
Simply pull the carrier off the caliper, it slides on two greased shafts. Watch the small rubber dust boots, so they aren't damaged.


2. Extend pistons...
Pump the brake pedal a few times, the pistons will move out. Do this with the bike off, using residual braking. If one piston is moving faster than the other, you can hold the faster moving one stationary with a couple fingers (unless you have very girly hands), then the other will extend. Don't push them out very far. Just pump them far enough, the ring of grime can be cleaned off.

3. Clean pistons and caliper...
A tooth brush and brake fluid is what should be used (DON"T USE ANY METAL BRUSH!). Use brake fluid as a solvent, just enough to wet the bristles on the brush a little bit (DON"T STICK YOUR DIRTY TOOTHBRUSH IN YOUR BOTTLE OF NEW BRAKE FLUID!). Cover the painted surfaces to avoid any fluid from spraying on them. Notice the strategically place rag. GLOVES ARE ON NOW, RIGHT?


special ALTERNATIVE note: This is the punishment for neglecting the brake system.

D. Pushing old fluid out of caliper

1. Fill reservoir with fresh fluid. Don't let the system run out of fluid.

2. Apply modest pressure to brake pedal (you might want a helper with this part)
You might also consider hanging a weight on the brake pedal. I'm not sure how heavy it should be. I would guess 15 pounds would do. This is to keep some pressure applied from the ABS unit and brake line (residual braking effect). If this is not done, the old fluid could get pushed back up and into the brake line (and require even more flushing). This pressure ensures the "old" fluid in the caliper is pushed directly out of the bleed valve.

3.Open bleed valve

4. Now push the pistons fully into caliper.
This should push the "old" fluid, in the caliper, directly out of the bleed valve. If you have girly hands, a C-clamp could be used, but don't scuff the BMW logo on the caliper... that'll void the warranty.

5. Close bleed valve.

Special ALTERNATIVE note: There is still a small amount "old" fluid in the caliper. The entire purpose of this ALTERNATIVE PROCEDURE is to address that small amount of "old" fluid. So the following is how to get rid of it.

6. Pump brake pedal to extend pistons... again.
This should fill the caliper cylinders with fresh brake fluid. Don't push them out to far. But, the farther they are pumped out the more diluted the "old" fluid will be.

7. Repeat steps 1-6 again
Now push the "diluted" fluid out of the caliper, by repeating the previous 6 steps.

8. Repeat steps 1-6 again
This is your punishment for not doing your brakes according to specified interval.

9. Repeat sets 1-6 again
This is because you haven't bought me a burger and beer yet.

10. Repeat steps 1-5 again
I'm still hungry... and you deserve this. Fluid in the caliper should be "like new" by now. In fact the fluid was "good to go" before the last two purges (sometimes internet authors can be feisty). After the final purge, the pistons do not need to be extended. In fact, that would be poor form. Continue on with the standard procedure below.

E. Reinstalling rear caliper

1. Replace carrier to caliper
Be sure to press the carrier in far enough in that the rubber dust caps grab onto the opposing part.

2. Replace brake pads
Don't forget to replace the springy thing with the directional arrow, if it fell out. Install pads...

3. Replace holding pin
I don't pound the pin all the way in, yet. I wait until the caliper is back mounted on the final drive...like this.


4.Replace caliper on rotor

5.Torque caliper bolts--40 nm

6.Replace retaining clip
Now pop that pin in fully, and put the retaining clip back on.

7. Replace rubber grommet for wheel sensor wire

8. Replace new zip-tie
That does it for the rear caliper.


F. Checking fluid level
I've seen a couple of people who didn't do this part, and needed to remove the gas tank to add more fluid. That is a hassle, do the following steps to be sure that is not needed.


1. Operate rear brake to extend pistons and push the pads against the rotor

2. Final check of fluid level
Add a bit if necessary...

3. Close cap on reservoir

All done! (with this part )

[iowabeakster]

III. Flushing front wheel circuits-- ALTERNATIVE outline

------A. Flushing the fluid from the reservoir to bleed valve--left side
------------1. Open cap on reservoir and draw off excess old fluid
------------2. Fill reservoir with fresh fluid
------------3. Attach filling device
------------4. Fill filling device with fresh fluid
------------5. Open bleed nipple--10mm
------------6. Turn on bike
------------7. Operate brake lever until fluid is bubble free and new fluid is exiting nipple
------------8. Close bleed nipple--9nm
------------9. Turn off bike
------B. Flushing the fluid from reservoir to bleed valve--right side
------------1. Fill filling device with fresh fluid
------------2. Open bleed nipple--10mm
------------3. Turn on bike
------------4. Operate brake lever until fluid is bubble free and new fluid is exiting nipple
------------5. Close bleed nipple--9 nm
------------6. Turn off bike
------------7. Remove filling device
------C. Flushing remaining fluid from left caliper
------------1. Remove caliper bolts
----------------a. Remove wire restraints holding brake line and wheel sensor wire
------------2. Slide caliper up and off the rotor
------------3. Remove retaining plate
------------4. Remove split pin and retaining pin
------------5. Remove brake pads
-----------*6. Clean caliper and pistons
-----------------a. Extend pistons
-----------------b. Clean pistons
-----------------c. Clean around seals
-------------7. Squeeze front brake lever
-----------------a. Zip-tie brake lever
-----------------b. Fill reservoir with fresh fluid
-------------8. Open bleed valve
-------------9. Push pistons in
------------10. Close bleed valve--9nm
------------11. Cut Zip-tie
------------12. Extend pistons again
------------13. Repeat steps above 7-12 again
------------------a. Repeat steps 7-12, as many times necessary, until there are absolutely no solids or brown fluid remaining.
------------------b. When perfect fluid is exiting caliper, do not do step 12 (extending the pistons) the final time
------------14. Clean left side pads and rotor with brake cleaner
------------15. Reinstallation of left caliper
----------------a. Install pads and retaining pin
----------------b. Replace split pin
----------------c. Replace retaining plate
----------------d. Replace caliper on rotors
----------------e. Torque caliper bolts--30 nm
----------------f. Replace sensor wire restraints
-------------16. Operate brake several times to extend pistons and set pads against rotors
------ D. Flushing fluid from right caliper
------------1. Remove caliper bolts
------------2. Slide caliper up and off the rotor
------------3. Remove retaining plate
------------4. Remove split pin and retaining pin
------------5. Remove brake pads
-----------*6. Clean caliper and pistons
-----------------a. Extend pistons
-----------------b. Clean pistons
-----------------c. Clean around seals
-------------7. Squeeze front brake lever
-----------------a. Zip-tie brake lever
-----------------b. fill reservoir with fresh fluid
-------------8. Open bleed valve
-------------9. Push pistons in
------------10. Close bleed valve-9nm
------------11. Cut Zip-tie
------------12. Extend pistons again
------------13. Repeat steps above 7-12 again
-----------------a. Repeat steps 7-12, as many times necessary, to remove all brown fluid and gunk
-----------------b. When perfect fluid is exiting caliper, do not do step 12 (extending the pistons) the final time
------------14. Clean right side pads and rotor with brake cleaner
------------15. Reinstallation of right caliper
----------------a. Install pads and retaining pin
----------------b. Replace split pin
----------------c. Replace retaining plate
----------------d. Replace caliper on rotors
----------------e. Torque caliper bolts--30 nm
-------------16. Operate brake several times to extend pistons and set pads against rotors
-------E. Final check on fluid level
--------------1. Replace reservoir cap

III. Flushing front wheel ciruits ALTERNATIVE detailed instructions

A. Flushing the fluid from reservoir to bleed valve--left side
Like the rear wheel circuit, we will first flush the reservoir and brake line to the bleed valve. Most of the pictures are taken from the right hand side. The lighting was better on that side to take pictures. But, you should be doing the left side first.

1. Open cap on reservoir and draw off excess old fluid
The same procedure as on the rear. The reservoir for the front brakes is skillfully circled in red below.


2. Fill reservoir with fresh fluid

3. Attach filling device
Yes, attach it to the FRONT reservoir this time

4. Fill filling device with fresh fluid

5. Open left caliper bleed nipple--10mm
Yeah, a bigger wrench than the rear caliper used...but still the same idea. Once again, gravity will start the process. You did attach tubing to the nipple to drain the old fluid, right?


6. Turn on bike

7. Operate brake lever until fluid is bubble free and new fluid is exiting nipple
Here is an action shot... just imagine that the left caliper is being done...


8. Close bleed nipple--9nm
Don't break it

9. Turn off bike

B. Flushing the fluid from reservoir to bleed valve--right side
This is the same as was done on the left. The only difference is that the reservoir is already filled with fresh fluid, so the "old" fluid does not need to be drawn off.

1. Fill filling device with fresh fluid

2. Open bleed nipple--10mm
Don't forget the drain tube.

3. Turn on bike

4. Operate brake lever until fluid is bubble free and new fluid is exiting nipple

5. Close bleed nipple--9 nm

6. Turn off bike

7. Remove filling device

C. Flushing remaining fluid from left caliper
This is the extra punishment for neglecting the brakes on the front wheel. Some of the photos below are from the right hand side (you should be doing the left side)... but the instructions are the same.

1. Remove caliper bolts
Two T45s again, self-explanatory.

a. Remove wire restraints holding brake line and wheel sensor wire
I also leave the front wheel senor in place (I hate the clips that hold the sensor wire, they are in an awkward place). Undo the plastic wire restraints on the mud guard so that the brake line is not bound to the sensor wire.


2. Slide caliper up and off the rotor
There is even less room to move the caliper off the rotor than on the rear. Be VERY careful not to bang up the paint on the wheels. Here, it is REALLY REALLY suggested that tape be applied to the wheel to protect it from scratching. Also, there is not much slack in the brake line, don't force anything. Once the caliper is slid to the outer edge of the rotor, it may seem that there is no way it will come off. It will. Tip the side of the caliper with the shiny retaining plate towards the outside (towards yourself) and keep wiggling slightly (always careful of the wheels).

3. Remove retaining plate
Two small 3mm hex bolts hold it on. The retaining plate is sprung (bent under pressure). When the first 3mm bolt is removed the plate will un-spring. Don't let this un-springing plate launch the small bolt. Now, loosen the other bolt.


4. Remove split pin and retaining pin
Once the split pin is out...the retaining pin just slides out the outboard hole.


5. Remove brake pads


*6. Clean caliper and pistons
a. Extend pistons
This is similar to the rear caliper. The only difference is that the front calipers have 4 pistons. The 4 pistons set-up can make this more annoying. Inevitably on of the pistons will move faster than the rest. One will probably not want to move much at all. So be creative in blocking the faster moving ones to get the slower ones to extend. One opposing pair of pistons can be blocked in place easily, with something like a screw driver handle or a block of wood. Then hold one of the other pistons with your fingers... and pump brake lever to extend the last one. Just extend them far enough to clean the ring of grime around the pistons. Pump the brakes with bike turned off! Do not use the servo pump.


b. Clean pistons
Oh, the satisfaction...


c. Clean around seals
Wipe out the interior of the caliper.

7. Squeeze front brake lever
Squeeze it and hold there with good pressure. (Have zip tie in hand for the next step!) This ensures that in the following steps the old fluid in the calipers is not pushed up into the brake lines.

a. Zip-tie brake lever
This will hold the pressure, while you push the old fluid out of the caliper. You are going to need to use several zip-ties in the near future. Or you might want to enlist a helper to hold the brake lever instead.

b. Fill reservoir with fresh fluid
You don't want to let the reservoir run dry! This is very important.

8. Open bleed valve
With the pressure applied from the lever, the fluid will initially shoot up pretty quicky.

9. Push pistons in
This pushes the old fluid in the caliper directly out the bleed valve. Make sure all four pistons get pressed in fully.

10. Close bleed valve--9nm

11. Cut Zip-tie

12. Extend all pistons again
Repeated pumping of the brake lever, with the bike off, to accomplish this again. Extend all four pistons about 1/4 inches.

13. Repeat steps above 7-12 again
Now you've got "diluted old fluid" in the caliper. Repeat the above steps to get rid of the diluted stuff.

a. Repeat as necessary, until all brown fluid and gunk is gone.
Keep repeating until the fluid is perfect.

b. When that is done, Do not do step 12 (extending the pistons) the last time

14. Clean left side pads and rotor with brake cleaner

15. Reinstallation of left caliper

a. Install pads and retaining pin

b. Replace split pin

c. Replace retaining plate

d. Replace caliper on rotors

e. Torque caliper bolts--30 nm

16. Operate brake several times to extend pistons and set pads against rotors
Turning on the bike and using the servo motor would be OK this time.

D. Flushing fluid from right caliper
Follow the instructions for the left caliper (Section C steps 1-16, above). It would simply be a waste of time to repeat the instructions. It is exactly the same aside from the sensor wire restraints which are not present on the right side.

E. Final check on fluid level
Fill if necessary

1. Replace reservoir cap

That should do it. The control circuit procedure and everything else from the standard procedure can be followed from this point. Return the the first page and begin section IV.

From now on do the service on time, and follow the easier standard procedure.

[chibbert]

Iowabeakster - again thanks for all your work here. I 'think' I am going to attempt this on my RS.

My question for you is as follows:

Can I just copy the addendum or do I need to whole original procedure and then intermingle the addendum with it?

Thanks

Chris

[chibbert]

Never mind - I think after reading further that:

If you've been less than dilligent about doing this every year you follow:

ORIGINAL I
NEW ADDENDUM II
NEW ADDENDUM III
ORIGINAL IV

Once you've purged and are doing so annually you follow:

ORIGINAL I
ORIGINAL II
ORIGINAL III
ORIGINAL IV

Am I correct?

[iowabeakster]

Chibbert,

You are correct. The addendum completely replaces sections II and III in the original (but is only needed if significantly behind schedule). If it is not needed, forget about it.

Notice that section IV (the control circuits) needs only to be done every 2 years.

The best advice I can give to a first timer...

1. READ READ READ!!! Go through the instructions as many times as it takes to fully understand what it is you are going to do (and understand the reason for doing it) before starting! Don't forget to check out the others instructions linked at the top of page 1. Hearing it from multiple sources can help you understand more clearly. Those links do things in different orders. I like to start with the rear wheel circuit. I like starting there because it is easier (only 1 caliper, only two pistons). So, it is like a warm-up.

2. TAKE YOUR TIME. This will take some time the first time. That is expected. Be careful and thorough. Nothing is difficult or tricky... but procedure is of the utmost importance. That is why understanding the process is so important. You certainly can introduce air into the system... which will require that part of the job to be done again. For examples: forgetting to fill a reservoir before flushing a circuit. Forgetting to close a bleed valve. Forgetting to connect the clear tubing the bleed valve. Always be prepared to clean up any spills immediately (there will be certainly be some drips, plus the possibility of a big clumsy spill)... keep towels/rags and some water within reach.

3. TAKE BREAKS... Coffee (soda) breaks and food breaks are mandatory! I am serious about this. Get one section done...take a nice break. Beer is not a good idea. This is just a tedious, nit-picky, step-by-step, job. Don't exceed your attention span. Take a shower and watch TV for an hour or two if you get impatient, frustrated, or cranky (it happens to me if I spill brake fluid). There would be no shame in stretching this into a 2 day job, the first time.

[chibbert]

many thanks

[rprothero]

Guys,
Im brand new to BMW and purchased a R1150R in which the dealer said I need to get a complete ABS flush ..However I dont want to drop 400 dollars on the service and Im somewhat mechanically inclined / patient enough to undertake a two day job..However, am I understanding that all I need to do is to perform Adendum II to flush my ABS and brake system..Or is there another set of steps prior to this that need to be performed before undertaking the task? Are there steps posted as to getting to the ABS control? Is it under the seat or do I need to remove the tank? Also what are some good recommendations for parts and fluid sources online? Forgive the Newbie but appreciate any advice..Love this bike...

[iowabeakster]

Welcome to the board.

The addendum sections (II. and III... the "wheel circuits") will only be needed if the brake system is long overdue for flushing. They are just alternative versions of sections II and III in the standard procedure. So, find out when the last flush was done. If you can't figure out when the flush was last done, you might want to do the addendum the first time.

If your bike is not overdue, just follow the outline and details on the first page, sections I. through VI. You can completely ignore the addendum sections.

[rprothero]

Iowabeakster..Just so Im not misunderstanding ..
Dealer said " Thanks for buying ...You need to do a complete brake flush including ABS cause I dont know the complete history on the bike"
I said how much
He said 400 dollars
I choked and now Im looking for the steps to do this service..
So your saying to just do the addendums and that will take care of it or is there a whole nother set of steps I need to do before doing the addendums. IE are there more steps to the break service..I know page 1 talks about taking off the moulding and gas tank but otherwise it looks like much of the same steps as the addendum...Sorry again Im trying to learn the mechanics of this bike as well as save some money..time is not so much a factor as long as it doesnt push me through summer trying to figure out ..gotta ride the lady...

Finally do you buy your supplies online or through a shop? If online can you recommend a good source for fluids, parts etc..

Thanks again

[Dr. Strangelove]

If there is another dealer nearby, I would get a second price.
I just had abs and clutch fluid change at Hebert's in Baton Rouge for $134.

John

[iowabeakster]

rprothero,

I agree with Dr. Strangelove. 400 dollars is the highest quote I've ever heard.

But, to your question about the "addendum"... I have renamed the "addendum".

It is now the, "ALTERNATIVE PROCEDURE for SECTIONS II and III". Please read the green text in the very first post. I believe that will answer your question.

I hope that makes it clear. If you still have questions, don't hesitate to ask.

(If somebody else has a suggestion to help me communicate this concept more concisely... please help!)

[TD5]

Any reason why the pics are not coming through?