R1100R surging help - Tried throttle balance & valve adj

tracye34 · Post by **tracye34** » Mon Jul 17, 2006 4:19 pm

I am new to the board, even though I have already gotten advice a couple of times. I need a little diagnostic help. I have a 2001 R1100R with 11.5k miles, had it for about 2 weeks. I noticed slight surging on the trip home from the purchase (330 miles). I figured a throttle synch would take care of it. Previous owner had this done about 4k miles ago with good results.

Surging became more noticable over the next week so I got a Twinmax and did a synch. I followed directions from this board, IBMWR tech articles and Twinmax. Made a slight improvent.

Next evening I adjusted valves, they did not seem too far out of adjustment, and re-did throttle synch, no real change needed according to the Twinmax. Short test ride showed slight improvement, but the bike stalled a couple of times when I pulled the clutch in. Re-started ok.

Went for a 300 mile ride the next day. Engine seemed smoother from valve adj, but was still getting surging, esp in the 2500-4000 range. Also stalled out a half dozen times. When I got home, I put the Twinmax on it to check, dead on, no adjustment needed.

I pulled but did not replace the plugs when doing the valves. They looked ok, couldn't check the gap, my guage did not have the right guage.

Bike is stock except for Remus exhaust, no cat.

I am looking for advice on where to go next. Will new plugs make much difference? I will be doing the 12k soon. Definately want to get this fixed, makes the bike less fun to ride.

Thanks for the help.

Tracy

Post by **DJ Downunder** » Mon Jul 17, 2006 5:27 pm

If all else fails you could try taking out the CCP in the fuse box.

Mines been out for years and it helped mine.

Having it out puts the bike in the Euro mode and will not try and run so lean.

Maybe worth a try.

DJ

Post by **rph802** » Mon Jul 17, 2006 7:24 pm

WARNING - The following advice is from the Mechanically Uninclined Institute and should be treated as such Right CTRider?? Ohhh that ones the exhaust valve....

From what I've read this has nothing to do with helping the surge problem but the stalling issue. Could the feul filter need changing?? I had a carbeurated car that ran like el crappo until the fuel filter got changed and tthe stalling and sputtering disappeared. i think 12k is rather soon for that but if you got a bum filter or it had nasty gas in it...maybe????

Post by **iowabeakster** » Mon Jul 17, 2006 11:42 pm

when buying a used bike that stalls. i would check the gas as mentioned above.

stig · Post by **stig** » Tue Jul 18, 2006 2:50 am

DJ Downunder wrote:If all else fails you could try taking out the CCP in the fuse box.

Mines been out for years and it helped mine.

Having it out puts the bike in the Euro mode and will not try and run so lean.

Maybe worth a try.

DJ

Hey DJ, can you elaborate on this remove the CCP thing please, I guess it's nothing to do with removing Russians?

regards
Stig

larry · Post by **larry** » Tue Jul 18, 2006 7:42 am

In the first place, the boxer twins do not surge if properly tuned. I got this straight from a rep from BMW at the bike show. In fact, the (then) new dual sparks don't surge even better than the old single spark models.

Seriously, it sounds like you've done all you can. The only additional recommendation would be to change the throttle cables if they haven't been changed already. You may be getting some funkiness due to the removal of the cat, but I couldn't help you with that. Some people have luck with eliminating the cannister, but I've seen no noticible difference on either my 1100R or my 1150R/

Post by **DJ Downunder** » Tue Jul 18, 2006 10:13 am

DJ Downunder wrote:
If all else fails you could try taking out the CCP in the fuse box.

Mines been out for years and it helped mine.

Having it out puts the bike in the Euro mode and will not try and run so lean.

Maybe worth a try.

DJ

Hey DJ, can you elaborate on this remove the CCP thing please, I guess it's nothing to do with removing Russians?

regards
Stig

Stig....here's a couple of pics showing the CCP...even BMW dealers often remove the CCP to help cure a surging problem.

You can either remove it..or..you can just pull it..turn it 90 deg..and replace it and it will be de-activated.

You can always just put it back how it was if you notice no change.

btw..not all CCP's are yellow..I've seen grey..pink..and even green I think...they all run the fuel injection a little differently..mostly to effect emission's.(I think)

DJ

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