BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

There is an artist named Daniel Peirce (yeah "e before I" is correct) that has a series of beautiful photos of motorcycle engines.

Thanks for the link to his site. I'd seen a short article about Peirce in one of the motorcycle magazines, but hadn't checked it out because his photos are not available as a collection in a book, only on prints. After looking over his pictures, however, I may have to splurge (actually, $60 for a metalic print is quite reasonable). One of his prints is of an R-32 BMW.
Peter '73 R75/5, '04 R1150RA

See, all the beautiful engines were of the air-cooled variety made in most cases, a long time ago. Ever see the liquid-cooled engine on a Duc S4R? UHHHHHH-GLEEEEE.

riceburner wrote:One issue with the Boxer that no-one has yet mentioned is "Ground Clearance".

at extreme cornering (which is VERY possible with BMWs) the cylinder head WILL ground out and lift the front.

Seriously?!? I've never heard of that! I've been riding my R1150RT since '03 and have done (what I consider to be) extreme cornering & even at the most extreme I run into things like foot pegs (along with my feet), rear brake lever, center stand, and even body work long before I get close to the cylinder heads... Are the R-R engines lower / of a different design than the R-RT engines that would cause the head to be more likely to scrape before reaching the limits of tires? Or that would allow getting past various chassis hard points like rear brake lever, etc?

I have to say that the foot peg, shifter, center stand, rear brake lever clearance on my K1200GT was surprisingly significantly less than the R-RT. Possibly because the R engine approximates more of a 'V' shape in line with the front & rear tires, whereas the K engine approximates more of a squared off 'U' shape. The edges of the 'U' get a lot closer to the ground a lot sooner than the 'V'.

Having ridden on both, I have to agree that the K engine is super-smooth and significantly stronger than the R engine, but I still prefer the mellowness of the R as well as the awesome dynamics (from my perspective) of the overall RT package!

yjleesvrr wrote:Can anyone name an engine that looks pretty?

Guzzi....

MikeyD wrote:

riceburner wrote:One issue with the Boxer that no-one has yet mentioned is "Ground Clearance".

at extreme cornering (which is VERY possible with BMWs) the cylinder head WILL ground out and lift the front.

Seriously?!? I've never heard of that! I've been riding my R1150RT since '03 and have done (what I consider to be) extreme cornering & even at the most extreme I run into things like foot pegs (along with my feet), rear brake lever, center stand, and even body work long before I get close to the cylinder heads... Are the R-R engines lower / of a different design than the R-RT engines that would cause the head to be more likely to scrape before reaching the limits of tires? Or that would allow getting past various chassis hard points like rear brake lever, etc?

I have to say that the foot peg, shifter, center stand, rear brake lever clearance on my K1200GT was surprisingly significantly less than the R-RT. Possibly because the R engine approximates more of a 'V' shape in line with the front & rear tires, whereas the K engine approximates more of a squared off 'U' shape. The edges of the 'U' get a lot closer to the ground a lot sooner than the 'V'.

Having ridden on both, I have to agree that the K engine is super-smooth and significantly stronger than the R engine, but I still prefer the mellowness of the R as well as the awesome dynamics (from my perspective) of the overall RT package!

Cylinder head decking is a well known skill/issue (depending on viewpoint) for R1100S riders - the pegs are a lot higher than on an RT and without a center-stand the pegs will touch before the heads, but only just.

riceburner wrote: Cylinder head decking is a well known skill/issue (depending on viewpoint) for R1100S riders - the pegs are a lot higher than on an RT and without a center-stand the pegs will touch before the heads, but only just.

Yikes! Guess I'm glad I have the RT, which allows me the "illusion" of extreme cornering...

I busted the stopper off my right peg (and dinged the peg) without touching the plastic valve cover protecter. I figure that was far enough over!

Yeah,......i know,.....but man,.....the Corban is like "real" leather and oh so classic!

Mine in classic black with no welts or unnecessary stitching,......which is why i didn't want the heated seat. Extra stiching could pass more water should i get caught out in bad weather,......although i'll probably be getting a seat cover to carry in one of my saddlebags just in case.

I even got the leather side panals instead to the usual vinyl. While mine might eventually take a set and show a few wrinkles at the sides,.......i'd much rather have "character" than,.....well,.....vinyl.

The Corbin is also more solid feeling and, well, after spending $730 with shipping,.... just has to be something i'll get used to.

Oh, and it real leather!

Seriously,.....i was also impressed with the tight fit of the Corban seat to the gas tank,......almost a squeegy fit. Still a bit firmer than i expected,.....buy that's "supposed" to get much better with a few thousand miles under me.

To top it off,......i just won a Corbin like new backrest off ebay that i should get in a day or two.

hep303 wrote:Hey joejeweler,

I am similar in stature to you and I also have the Corbin seat. I switched back to the original though. The Corbin seat raises you up about an inch and it is a little wider. The Corbin does provide more comfort for long hauls. I mostly make shorter trips so I don't mind.
You will be a little closer to the ground if you use the OEM seat.