Hollow Front Axle
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marecycling
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Hollow Front Axle
Replacing tires on my 2002R, and noticed front axle is hollow from one end to the other. Was going to plug open end to prevent water from reaching trheads of axle nut. Was not sure if open end was designed to cool bearings. Will it hurt to enclose the axle end?
The "good things" that come to those who wait, are just the "leftovers" from those who didn't!
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CycleRob
- Honorary Lifer
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marecycling,
Member R4R&R is correct. It's a strength issue too. Most Jap SportBikes have 27mm to 32mm (1.06" to 1.26") hollow axles. Structurally, a solid, small diameter axle isn't very strong and it's really heavy. The solid axle is almost always a softer, low cost steel compared to the large diameter thin walled hollow one. Smack both of them with a small hammer in the middle and you'll hear the difference in tone - - a good indicator of steel strength, irrespective of it's shape/configuration. It's the same quality tone test with lead crystal glass . . . . only you use a small spoon (gently) instead of a hammer. High tone + long duration = high quality. A hollow thin walled, 3x larger diameter axle is much stronger and a fraction of the solid axle's weight. Once it is in production, the hollow, quality steel one IS cheaper too.
I second leaving it alone. If a plug was needed to protect the internal threads, one would have been installed. Hollow allows it to dry out quickly. The steels can handle it for as long as you own the bike. Besides, if your plug doesn't seal 100%, it will trap water in there.
BTW, do NOT grease the axle bolt's threads to prevent rust. That will greatly reduce the thread friction that determines the tightening torque and you will unknowingly be OVER-torquing the bolt a lot. At the next tire change, the thread's grease will have been squeezed out of the way and you'll sense correctly that the bolt was severely over-tightened (by somebody).
FYI: Many engine assembly manuals specify "cleaned, oiled threads" for the main headbolts -BUT- their torque spec is adjusted for that.
Member R4R&R is correct. It's a strength issue too. Most Jap SportBikes have 27mm to 32mm (1.06" to 1.26") hollow axles. Structurally, a solid, small diameter axle isn't very strong and it's really heavy. The solid axle is almost always a softer, low cost steel compared to the large diameter thin walled hollow one. Smack both of them with a small hammer in the middle and you'll hear the difference in tone - - a good indicator of steel strength, irrespective of it's shape/configuration. It's the same quality tone test with lead crystal glass . . . . only you use a small spoon (gently) instead of a hammer. High tone + long duration = high quality. A hollow thin walled, 3x larger diameter axle is much stronger and a fraction of the solid axle's weight. Once it is in production, the hollow, quality steel one IS cheaper too.
I second leaving it alone. If a plug was needed to protect the internal threads, one would have been installed. Hollow allows it to dry out quickly. The steels can handle it for as long as you own the bike. Besides, if your plug doesn't seal 100%, it will trap water in there.
BTW, do NOT grease the axle bolt's threads to prevent rust. That will greatly reduce the thread friction that determines the tightening torque and you will unknowingly be OVER-torquing the bolt a lot. At the next tire change, the thread's grease will have been squeezed out of the way and you'll sense correctly that the bolt was severely over-tightened (by somebody).
FYI: Many engine assembly manuals specify "cleaned, oiled threads" for the main headbolts -BUT- their torque spec is adjusted for that.
`09 F800ST
Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--
Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--
My BMW Repair Manual CD says,
• Apply a light coating of Molykote paste to the quick-release axle and install it.
Tightening torque:
Quick-release axle threaded connection ...... 30 Nm
Clamp screws, sliding tube .......................... 22 Nm
Brake caliper to fork slider tube.................... 40 Nm
No need to overtighten the axle retaining bolt (referred to above as the Quick-release axle threaded connection). It does not hold the axle in the fork clamps.
• Apply a light coating of Molykote paste to the quick-release axle and install it.
Tightening torque:
Quick-release axle threaded connection ...... 30 Nm
Clamp screws, sliding tube .......................... 22 Nm
Brake caliper to fork slider tube.................... 40 Nm
No need to overtighten the axle retaining bolt (referred to above as the Quick-release axle threaded connection). It does not hold the axle in the fork clamps.
Dennis....quit worrying about your oil..go ride
This is not an application for anti-seize. I would never use anti-seize on brake or wheel fasteners.R4R&R wrote:Does that include anti-seize? I've heard arguements about using anti-seize on lug bolt, and other 'wheel' related bolts.CycleRob wrote:BTW, do NOT grease the axle bolt's threads to prevent rust.
Dennis....quit worrying about your oil..go ride
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Daryl_stamp
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When I had new tires installed by the local dealer I asked the service manager whether or not to use Anti-Sieze on the rear wheel lug screws or anything else. His response was an absolute no. As previous posters have stated, it reduces friction and ultimately causes the fastener to be over-stressed. The reduced friction is also the reason to NOT use anti-sieze or lubricant on the mating surface between the wheel and hub.
All that being said; I use Anti-Sieze in a lot of other applications, virtually anything outside or that is expected to be in place for a long time prior to dis-assembly. I became a believer after finding that the previous owner of a '73 Chevy Longhorn had used copious amounts of the stuff on the exhaust manifold studs. I was expecting a long day when I prepared to replace the manifold gaskets, and was really expecting at least one broken stud. Once I saw the slivery residue on every fastener I was grateful. I may over-use it on some things so I was glad that I asked the dealer before I put the wheels back on the R.
DLS
All that being said; I use Anti-Sieze in a lot of other applications, virtually anything outside or that is expected to be in place for a long time prior to dis-assembly. I became a believer after finding that the previous owner of a '73 Chevy Longhorn had used copious amounts of the stuff on the exhaust manifold studs. I was expecting a long day when I prepared to replace the manifold gaskets, and was really expecting at least one broken stud. Once I saw the slivery residue on every fastener I was grateful. I may over-use it on some things so I was glad that I asked the dealer before I put the wheels back on the R.
DLS