BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

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Beemeridian - Glad to hear that this was relatively trivial but the long term fix is to get rid of the OEM QDs.

I'm sure you've seen the recent posts on the problems with the LittleParts QDs, so I'd stay away from them. I replaced the factory QDs with Omegas and have been happy but you can also consider getting rid of them altogether. I know that folks on this board have used plain, straight tubing to good effect but if it were me, I'd use a tapered barbed fitting. I think someone posted a photo and a source for the fitting a couple of months ago.

Charlie

Without fuel leaking all over the place, I wouldn't have been guessing the disconnect either.

Bright side, fuel wasn't leaking all over the place.

Bunofasitch! You do have one hell of a great dealer!

55

Dave,
BMW Motorcycles of Atlanta stocks Redline Shockproof on the shelf and highly recommends it. Tell your dealer to check with them if they have a problem.

Beemeridian - the barbs serve a really useful purpose, making it difficult for the hose to slip off while not having to tighten down the clamp too much. This is why the QDs have them. Flared ends would serve the same purpose but they may make it much more difficult to get the hose on over the bump.

There was a post a couple of weeks back by one of our Kiwi brethern that has a picture of a a barbed hose connector
http://www.r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.p ... =fuel+line.
Even though I have the Omegas, it wouldn't hurt to carry something to fix a QD leak. I searched the Omega site for "hose connectors" but didn't find anything - didn't yet try hydraulic supply companies like the poster suggested.
Charlie

45

I purchased 5/16 brass barbed straight connectors at Home Depot in the plumbing department. I carry a couple of them with me along with FI hose clamps. I haven't actually taken off the original quick disconnects yet. I thought I'd wait until they gave me problems, since most don't. I have the straight connectors with me in case.

I was worried about using smooth straight brass pipes without barbs to replace the QD's on-the-cheap and w/o a trip into town. After I removed the stock rubber hoses from the shiny plastic fuel lines that are rearward from the QD's (so it's safer to remove the QD from the rubber hose) I stopped worrying. That plastic pipe was super shiny & very slick without any barbs, with just a barely visible swelled end. To increase both brass pipe's holding friction, I chucked my brass pipes in an electric drill and slowly turned (both ends) in 240 grit sandpaper to generate hundreds of circumferential micro "barbs". After cleaning the grit off they were pushed into the rubber hoses and with noticeably increased effort. That was a good plan. I snugged the clamps good-&-tight, w/o causing any crush-cut damage to the hose rubber from an overtightened clamp. I'm sure many people doing this will under or over tighten the FI clamp screws.

After my rides and a few days later I decided to check the FI hose clamps tightness again, just for kicks. THEY WERE ALL LOOSER!! About 3/4 turm more each one. Apparently the fuel softened the rubber some. Recheck your clamp screw tightness again!

23

I have to agree about the folks at Hammersley---they have always treated me well and even covered a major repair when I was well out of warranty. Good people!

Wayne

I had a similar experience after the 600 mile service on the R1200C. The engine just suddenly quit in the middle of a downhill switchback. Nearly dumped it.

After getting a ride form a member of the group to the local H-D dealer,I got a ride home to fetch truck and hoist to take bike 50 miles each way to dealer. Dealer had the tank off for the service and the mechanic failed to fully seat the fuel disconnects.

The starter turned the motor, but no fuel left me stranded.

Just finished my brake bleed so I had to take the tank off and back on again. The plastic fuel quick connects uncoupled and snapped back into place without a problem ...think I need to go buy a lottery ticket tonight!

354

What is it about the disconnects that causes fuel to stop flowing when they become partially uncoupled?

Their is a valve in the female (I think) QD that is closed unless the other (male?) end is fully inserted and the unit completely mated. When the QDs are separated, or if things are not seated properly, the valve stays closed and no fuel flows. This is what allows you to disconnect them without fuel leaking everywhere.

Challey is correct - that small white piece that appears to be spring loaded is the valve that controls the gas flow. It is also very easy to break as I learned the first time I struggled to uncouple the QD.