BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

The recent thread about torque wrenches got me to think seriously about adding a low-torque wrench to my collection. I've been using the "1/2 snerk" method but am always nervous that I'm not torquing things properly, even though I've had no problems after doing at least 5 adjustments.

Can anyone recommend a reasonably priced torque wrench that can be used on the valve adjustment lock nut?

All of the less expensive wrenches I've seen are socket-type which would require the use of a crows-foot adapter and necessitate calculating a correction factor. It looks like Snap-on offers a open-end low torque wrench but it's about $160.

Charlie

To use a crow's foot with a torque wrench, just set it so the foot is at about 90 degrees to the wrench handle (to be more precise, make it a slightly acute angle). No arithmetic adjustment necessary.

SK tools says in answer to prior speculation, that their US made wrenches do not need to be returned to zero between uses unless they will not be used for a long interval.

Well, for some of us, that would be every time we use them, so if you have a shop and use them every day, don't worry about it, but for infrequent use, seems like we should zero it out.


geo

I found an inexpensive ($40) 1/4" drive torque wrench on line with a range of 20-210 in/lbs. This would appear to be suitable for use in adjusting the valves on our Roadsters which calls for snugging the locknut to 8nm (~70 in/lbs). Here's a link to the vendor: http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/15340- ... Wrench.htm

I've never heard of this brand of tool (Sette) - is anyone familiar with them? Also, in order to use it on the valve locknut an open-end, crow's foot type adapter is needed - can anyone suggest a source for a 1/4" x 8mm adapter?

Charlie

challey wrote:The recent thread about torque wrenches got me to think seriously about adding a low-torque wrench to my collection. I've been using the "1/2 snerk" method but am always nervous that I'm not torquing things properly, even though I've had no problems after doing at least 5 adjustments.

Can anyone recommend a reasonably priced torque wrench that can be used on the valve adjustment lock nut?

All of the less expensive wrenches I've seen are socket-type which would require the use of a crows-foot adapter and necessitate calculating a correction factor. It looks like Snap-on offers a open-end low torque wrench but it's about $160.

Charlie

I have been a Licenced Aircraft Engineer for 42 years and am confident with hand tools.

If you want accuracy, and it sounds like you do, then get a Snap-On 1/4 inch DIAL torque wrench. As mentioned elsewhere, set the crow foot at 90 degrees and there's no arithmatic. At these low settings the click wrench is no good.

I figured this was as good a thread as any to pose my question. Where can I find torque settings for the filler on my '03 R1150R tank? I talking about the 6 small torx screws that secure the filler assembly to the tank.


I've looked in my Clymer manual w/o luck.

orangebob wrote:I figured this was as good a thread as any to pose my question. Where can I find torque settings for the filler on my '03 R1150R tank? I talking about the 6 small torx screws that secure the filler assembly to the tank.


I've looked in my Clymer manual w/o luck.

The BMW manual is also lacking this info. This might suggest the the torque is non critical in this area. Bearing in mind that the only requirement here is to ensure a seal at the filler cap 'O' ring, may I suggest that tightening the fasteners in a crosswise fashion using a torx screwdriver will do the trick. Just tighten them down a little at a time, crosswise until they are all snug and it should be ok. Once the 'O' ring is compressed it should be good to go.