BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Hey there,

I need help from you gear-head mystery solvers out there in cyber-space.

This weekend I decided to take off some of the accessories that I had placed on my '04 R1150R. The bike was running superbly before this little project and the battery was fully charged according to the trickle charger.

I had to take off the oil coolers and tank (something I have done numerous times before). All went well and I put the bike back together including the air lines, fuel lines and electrical plug on the right side of the bike. I also took special care to mate them up to the original hoses and not cross them.

When I staretd the bike it wouldn't idle unless I held the throttle advance open all the way. If I let go off it the bike would sputter and then stall. If I revved the throttle enough to let me ride the bike without stalling the bike would lurch forward and then roll a little and then lurch forward again. It wasn't the smooth ride that it was prior to my little tinkering. I looked over the 4 hoses and the electrical plug and all was as it should be. There was gas in the tank. The battery was fully charged.

What am I overlooking? Please help.

H8terboi
2004 R1150R
1981 R65

It sounds like you accidentally tugged the right side throttle cable up & out of the threaded adjuster on the TB. Check it out. You should be able to center it and guide it back into place.

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Thanks CycleRob,

That was a great thought, but I checked and both throttle cables are routed correctly. Any other thoughts? I would hate to have to go to the local dealer (whose service dept sucks) and have them overcharge me for some simple oversight.

- H8terboi

If one cylinder isn't firing, you can tell by starting it to see which cylinder doesn't warm up, then your diagnosis will be 50% easier!

I had the cable adjuster problem CycleRob mentioned after a shop replaced the battery and it acted like yours. It was easy to feel the right cylinder wasn't firing, and I fixed it as he described. Good luck!

Try lightly bouncing the throttle off the idle stops (Engine Off) and look/listen to each TB that the throttle spool's foot audibly "taps" the idle stop screw on both sides at the same instant. If only the left side taps, the right throttle cable is NOT fully inside the knurled threaded adjuster. Go to the full throttle stop (Engine OFF!!!), then try the idle tap test again.



Are the fuel line Quick Disconnects pushed fully together - - - where the shiny metal tab is popped up equally on both QD's ?


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Dude,

You definately are the almighty king of throttle body science. The right side throttle cable was not fully in the knurled screw. It needed to be advanced about 2mm. Thanks again for your help.

- H8terboi

CycleRob, sometimes referred to as "Dude" has helped many of us on this board. His knowledge and willingness to share has been an invaluable resource to us all.

CycleRob is the man of the board when it comes to helping fellow members and riding like a smoothie!

Roger that! CycleRob is the man.

I'm reading CR's post on Monday thinking, "How the heck does he think that?"
What a call!

+1

The DUDE!!! Right Arm!

It was easy, honest. The symptoms he described had to be that.

When the Left cable pulls out (accidentally) it runs, but runs very rough because the TPS (on the Left TB) was advanced, adding more fuel (making the catbox glow red from right TB being shut but having "opened throttle" fuel injected).


When the Right side cable gets pulled out, it runs weakly & stalls the way he described because:
--The left throttle (and TPS) is at idle speed with idle mixture.
--The right throttle is being held open (by cable) with only idle fuel injected = weak/dead right cylinder.


No other "Tank Off & On" mistake(s) could/would cause those symptoms. That plus the message of my signature below . . . . that can be used by all of you in your field of expertise.


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