BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

On my bike i have a wunderlich cruisecontrol, very simple, works great and i can recommend it.

so when i was cruising at 30 miles an hour i thought i could let got of the handle bars, wrong.

the bike went into a left turn immedeately, after a few times i was able to let go of the handle bars
but needed my full weight to hang over to the left as far as i could to have the bike run straight.

Is this adjustable by adjusting the bike, wheels, froks or oly by adding weight to the other side?

a picture of the cruisecontrol.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z99/ ... 010430.jpg

There are factors besides the alignment of the bike that contribute to straight tracking: you - your sense of balance, symmetry, micro muscle control, and general posture; the roadway - crowning, surface texture, wear and tear; tires - tread pattern, compound; and some others. PTTR has been a contentious discussion point with little hard evidence and lots of emotion for owners of the RT series. Fact is, it is a multi-variant situation with a great variety of potential and combined causes. Good luck determining what you can do.

54

Yeah, well, speeding is illegal too... but that doesn't stop us from doing it...

I've never had a motorcycle that I couldn't take my hands of the bars and have it track straight. Something's not right.

Beemeridian wrote:In my state it is a ticket-able offense to remove even one hand from the controls of the machine while it is in motion.

Really? I figured one hand was ok. I know I've ridden right around police with one hand 'relaxed', on the tank or my thigh. Even with ear-plug headphones in. I guess the police are lax in my area: +10mph over the limit is considered 'normal'.

But back to the OP question...

If he can isolate the non-frame/suspension factors of body position, road condition and tires, then he can try to trace the alignment issue.

Given that, I'd first do the wet puddle test: on a dry surface with at least 2.5 times the bike length available, run the tires straight through a small puddle and beyond one bike length or more. If you kept the bike straight and level during this test it will show you if your front and rear tires are tracking straight and true. If not, that's the first place to check. Is the front wheel properly seated, pre-torqued, set and torqued onto the axle? Is the rear lugged and torqued properly? Is there final drive free play (or for chains - is the swingarm set correctly on each side)? Is your (dreaded) swing arm free play within tolerance? Are the forks straight and do they maintain the proper distance from each other from triple tree to axle? Is either fork binding, showing signs of more or less compression and damping than the other? Is the triple tree properly installed and are the handlebars properly mounted?

You can see where this goes - systematically check the fine tolerances of every component from ground up. Last step is, of course, is the frame bent?

BUT FIRST!

You must be able to isolate the problem from you, the road and the tires.

Hendrikus,
Are you sure that the bike did not have accident before
Robert

Don't some ABS bikes have a sheet steel plate between the mag wheel hub and the FD??

Check with a dealer if it's required on your bike. If it got left off in a tire change . . . . there's your problem.


.

Rob, that plate is equal to, or less than, the thickness of a credit card. I would not think that would cause a noticeable difference. However, it would be good to check and see if it is there.

I would agree with MikeCam, and start with the puddle test, and then check things from the ground up.

Somebody mentioned that our roads are crowned, to allow rain to drain off of the road. Most roads, most of the time, are like this. The result is that we are always in a left hand lean, which we make subconscious compensations for. Without your hands on the bars, your auto-pilot-brain can't control the bike.

Or you could have a problem.

Beemeridian wrote:

I fail to see the advantage of this maneuver

Why? because i want to do this:

http://v1.bikepics.com/wmv-416-96/Suzuk ... -12sec.wmv

Beemeridian wrote:

I have read owner's manuals of Japanese, German, and American makes of motorcycles, and I can state categorically that in each of them it is stated that both hands must remain on the controls, and both feet on the footpegs at all times when the machine is in motion, and that injury or death could result if this directive is violated.

Manuals for the American market probably, manufacturers don't like to get charges filed against them, by stupid people who should not be on a bike at the first place.

So if i want to turn on my heated grips, warning lights or to witch off my ABS i first have to come to a full stop? i can immagine other reasons that having both hands and feet 100%
of the time in "position" is for sure Dangerous. And will lead to fatal injuries.

Thanks MikeCam,

Great suggestions, will start to isolate the problem bottom up, to start with the puddle-test.

The tires were new, tried it on several roads, and with an empty tank it wasn't as bad as with a full one (the RT tank is a-symetrical)

The frame might be bend, there is at least a new paint job done.

And i've removed the extra battery as i don't use it.

Front wheel is propperly installed and torqued by the dealer.

Wow, if you can stand up on your buddy seat, you'll have both hands free to wave at other motorcyclists.....

But seriously. I remember my dad telling me he could let go of his handles while cruising on his R1200RT. Alltho i think he also said that he had to compensate by leaning to one side a bit. Im not a technician.. but doesn't the cardan have anything to do with it? I can inmagine it does..

Secondly, reading about the letting go of one hand shocked me a bit as suddenly i remembered that this is also illigal in Holland... (is THAT why police officers never wave back at me? lol Never asked myself that qstion before)

Anyway I think it might be fun to try it once on low speed, just to see how the bike reacts... I'd never make a habit out of it tho.... My Rock is way to precious to risk any type of damage due to foolish behaviour.
Certainly don't want to open a topic in the future called: 'Crashed my Rock wile trying to drive hands free'
(you should buy a hands free set for the sellphone )

I am not a supporter for hand free ridding but on my R1150R I can easy do it at a low speed i.e about 30 km/hr.
Robert

today i tried letting go of my handles for just a sec. offcourse i dont have the uh...'cruise control..' but i just let it drift without any gear selected (there must be a word for this) The bike absolutely never leaned to any side.
I Cant try it with throttle offcourse but i suspect the cardan forces make the bike turn right when you use any torque because of the cardan.