BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

I have the BMW pannier rails and luggage rack fitted to my R and, being a tight-*rse, didn't want to go to the expense of the H&B rack and top-box, even though they look like a quality fitment and, if money was no object, I'd probably take this route.

I purchased a Shad (Moto-detail) 42 litre box, naively thinking that the 'universal' adaptor supplied with it would do the job. The quality of the box is 'ok' but it remains to be seen how long-lived it proves to be.

Due to the fact that the BMW rack has a convex top surface and that fitting the universal adaptor would require drilling holes in it, I decided to fabricate my own replacement using a 8mm chopping board. The board was white (I couldn't find a black one) so I spray painted it. As you can tell from the pics, I was so impatient to fit it that I didn't wait for the paint to dry properly.

It took me several hours mulling over this solution but actually only about 1 hour to actually do it. Total cost (UK) £67). I'm sure in the U.S. you could probably do the same for the same amount (or less) in $$$.

Been there...done that...

http://r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?p ... ght=#52973

taosports

'Imitation is the sincerest [form] of flattery.'
Charles Caleb Colton, Lacon, volume I, no. 183
(1780 - 1832)

MartinW

Did the same myself last year.

Only difference is that I mounted the top-box directly to the chopping board (I didn't have a mounting plate, the box was a freeby from an old friend). Takes 3 minutes to fit or remove the assembly by using the rack side bolts and the bike looks good either way. Tis utterly stable too.

Riceburner,

I did consider that option as well but I like the lift-off-in-two-seconds capability of the mounting plate. The advantage of your method is greater security though.

You mention 'utterly stable' and this was a concern of mine, in that ultimately the box is only held on by a couple of bolts through some not very thick plastic on the luggage-rack mounting rails. Should I be worried about long-term stability I wonder?

Congrats, great install and looks good too. To everyone......

MartinW wrote:Riceburner,

I did consider that option as well but I like the lift-off-in-two-seconds capability of the mounting plate. The advantage of your method is greater security though.

You mention 'utterly stable' and this was a concern of mine, in that ultimately the box is only held on by a couple of bolts through some not very thick plastic on the luggage-rack mounting rails. Should I be worried about long-term stability I wonder?

I actually used just 4 bolts to hold the topbox/"rack" together - each one goes through the rack side plate holes, then the chopping board, then the top-box and the nuts are inside. I didn't therefore need extra holes in the chopping board. I also included a dural (aluminium & something else alloy) plate in the bottom of the top box to ensure that the thin plastic of the base of the box wasnt' too stressed. I think this helps a fair bit with the stability because a large portion of the box is now "clamped" to the chopping board. I'll try to take pics this weekend when I do my brake lines and shock replacements.

MartinW wrote:taosports

'Imitation is the sincerest [form] of flattery.'
Charles Caleb Colton, Lacon, volume I, no. 183
(1780 - 1832)

MartinW

Yup, we all need to thank MixR for the kitchen utensil idea. MixR used to participate on this board.

Glad it worked for you Martin! Looks great!

I had no idea that this was such a tried-and-tested method. Perhaps I read the thread some time back and my subsconscious mind recently suggested it to my conscious mind as an 'original' idea. Well done to MixR for coming up with the idea in the first place.

For proper stability you need something like the Givi SR683 carrier brackets, the top plate is specific to givi boxes and wont be of use to you but the brackets fit behind the pannier rails and the top brackets replace the parts that your chopping board is mounted to. This setup adds some support to the rear of the top box mounts and makes the whole set up stronger and more stable.



There is one on Ebay at the moment
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BMW-R1150R-GIVI-S ... otohosting

I have been using this same set up with a Shad 48 litre top case on my bike for the past two years, just had to drill the Shad mounting plate to corrospond with the hles on the Givi top brackets.


Hank.

Hank, Thanks for the info and the eBay link. Martin W

I too stole that idea, but left the Pirates Lair backrest plate and used that to brace the mounting plate for my Emgo case.
Stainless hardware and aluminum "C" channel made for a very stable mount.


Still need to chop the overhang, but it's not visible from above.


Although, I did have to stack a couple nylon washers to keep the Emgo plate from flexing too much.


JC

hank wrote:For proper stability you need something like the Givi SR683 carrier brackets, the top plate is specific to givi boxes and wont be of use to you but the brackets fit behind the pannier rails and the top brackets replace the parts that your chopping board is mounted to. This setup adds some support to the rear of the top box mounts and makes the whole set up stronger and more stable.



There is one on Ebay at the moment
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BMW-R1150R-GIVI-S ... otohosting

I have been using this same set up with a Shad 48 litre top case on my bike for the past two years, just had to drill the Shad mounting plate to corrospond with the hles on the Givi top brackets.


Hank.

I used my setup last year for a run to France, fully loaded (well - clothes mostly) topbox and max speed runs and it didn't move at all. Those side rails that bolt to the panner rails are pretty stiff.

riceburner wrote:

MartinW wrote:Riceburner,

I did consider that option as well but I like the lift-off-in-two-seconds capability of the mounting plate. The advantage of your method is greater security though.

You mention 'utterly stable' and this was a concern of mine, in that ultimately the box is only held on by a couple of bolts through some not very thick plastic on the luggage-rack mounting rails. Should I be worried about long-term stability I wonder?

I actually used just 4 bolts to hold the topbox/"rack" together - each one goes through the rack side plate holes, then the chopping board, then the top-box and the nuts are inside. I didn't therefore need extra holes in the chopping board. I also included a dural (aluminium & something else alloy) plate in the bottom of the top box to ensure that the thin plastic of the base of the box wasnt' too stressed. I think this helps a fair bit with the stability because a large portion of the box is now "clamped" to the chopping board. I'll try to take pics this weekend when I do my brake lines and shock replacements.

As described above :

The stiffening plate Inside the box (and I've used the nuts to hold down a retaining strap with clips - handy for when you're not transporting much).


Here you can just see a couple of the bolt heads under the box.

Nice job Riceburner.

Just curious ... what did you guys used to cut through a 8 mm chopping board? and to control the shape?

Cheers

Cat

I started off using a Dremel but the cutting disc broke so I resorted to a coping saw. Finish it off the cut edges with some sandpaper.

Err, I think I took off large chunks with a hacksaw, then shaped with a coarse bastard file, then finished with finer files (well - I will admit I didn't do much fine work... ).

Scroll saw with a fine blade works great, you can manuever the cutting board, instead of moving the saw. Helps control the cuts much better. Then sand the edges to get rid of the melted bits left behind. Or just pick off the melted plastic and run a lighter or one of those fireplace lighters along the edge, and it'll smooth it out nicely.

I cheated ,not having the OEM luggage rack or brackets for it, I started with sidecase brackets and bought the Bestrest plate and bolted the Chinese topcase plate to that, using a rubber isolation layer in between the two plates. I took the Chinese/EBAY $50 version on 7k trip to Mexico and had no problems. Not trusting the lip seal on the case , I used black silicone to embed BMW car, 3 series, oil filter O-rings down into the groove in the lower half of the topcase. I also made a backrest -long narrow oval piece of plywood w/ 2 mtg screws thru it,covered with foam and leather and fastened to the case adjacent to the hinge area. This pad is not in the way for a single rider but makes a nice backrest for my wife on local runs. I will tell you , that if you go the Chinese case route(maybe they're all made there, but they sure aren't priced that way!)I had one of the plate locking studs missing when I got back home from my long trip. I simply cut down a carriage bolt to fit with a tubing spacer for box fit to replace it. The originals are riveted to the plate and flimsy. You could also braze the underneath side of these if they look loose when you get the setup. Otherwise I see little difference between these and the GIVI, which they are obviously cloned from.
As a side note if any of you entreprenurial types want to make some money, do this: Go to Mexico with a shipload of the Chinese topcases of various sizes and sell them to the gadzillion people down there that have a Chinese scooter or bike with no topcase...