BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

I've spent the last 3hrs looking for the picture of the fuse box that has the notes about which fuses are hot and when. Igition, always hot, etc... I cant find it anywhere. Simple question: Is the #8 fuse only switched when the bike is running or when the ignition is on? I tried to install an autoswitch and tapped into the #8 fuse, the aux lights dont turn on when the ignition is on and the TSC switch is held. I have the tank off and dont want to put everything back on before I know they will work. Does the 8 fuse only get switched when the bike is running? If not...I messed something up. Please help me

Johnny

Pre-empted by better picture....

but confusion reigns!

See below.

Crap....that might explain alot. I know I saw a picture of a fuse box with notes stating which fuses are switched with ignition and such. I coulda sworn the #8 was a switched fuse . If not, which fuse can i tap into for power with the ignition on? Think I need one that cuts off powerr when the bike is cranking then power on when its running.

Toa....I saw that one but there is another picture with notes on the right side. I tapped into the 8 fuse, but no lights when the ignition is on

Johnny,

Don't know where I got the above photo but was curious why the photo was identical to the jabrooks photo that MikeCam posted - except for the use of fuses 8-9-10.

So...I looked in my Clymers and for a 93 thru 04 1150R, this is what they say:

1. Instrument cluster
2. Side and tail light
3. Turn signals, clock
4. Horn
5. Motronic
6. Fuel pump
7. Heated grips
8. Spare (radio on RT model)
9. Spare
10. Spare (fog lights on RT model)

I just perused the wiring diagrams for the R1150R (including Rockster). It appears the jabrooks version is the basic diagram:

http://home.mindspring.com/~jabrooks/images/fuses.jpg

Michael has one that appears to show how someone used the fuse blocks for 8-10, but I am at a loss how that happened.

The lights (low, high, turn) are not fused but relayed on US models. The parking and taillights are fused #2. Use #2 if you want the simplest power feed.

What I would do is harder, but eases the knowledge of how the power flows: add a new fuse block powered directly from the battery or hot starter post. Make the live side always on. Take a new circuit from the fused side to a relay that receives it's power when the bike is on (such as the low beam feed [yellow/green] or the taillight feed [grey/black] ). Run the other side of that relay to your new accessory. For the ground and low power side of the relay, take power from a known ignition powered source through a switch (the new Autoswitch) to activate the relay.

I am not an electrician, I sleep on a blanket on the floor, I cannot pretend that makes sense. But it worked for me.

johnnyjs1 wrote: Crap....that might explain alot. I know I saw a picture of a fuse box with notes stating which fuses are switched with ignition and such. I coulda sworn the #8 was a switched fuse . If not, which fuse can i tap into for power with the ignition on? Think I need one that cuts off powerr when the bike is cranking then power on when its running.

Toa....I saw that one but there is another picture with notes on the right side. I tapped into the 8 fuse, but no lights when the ignition is on

I used fuse #7 (heated grips) and a Littelfuse add-a-circuit to get switched power. I picked that fuse because I figured if something goes wrong it is not a mission critical circuit.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl ... er=071-580

So....the easiest way would be to tap into the number 2 fuse for a switched source for the autoswitch as a temp solution till i get another fuse block (centech etc..)?

The #2 fuse will be hot without the key in if the bike is in "park." Don't know if that matters to you.

You have a #8 fuse? That's news to me, must be a Rockster or dual-spark thing. I thought 8,9,10 were empty on the Roadster/Rocksters.

I installed a fuse block pretty much the way MikeCam suggests. I wired one side of the fuses straight to the battery. The load side went to relays and then off on their merry ways. For my aux lights, which I wanted on all the time, I tapped into the wire that runs to the handlebar light switch. This is not a fused line but is after the load relief relay so it goes off when the bike is cranking and on the rest of the time the key is switched to ignition.

I don't know how the autoswitch is designed to work and the wiring connections it requires. But, based on what you are asking, I would guess that #7 (heated grips) would do what you are looking for. That is after the load-relief relay so it will not be on when the engine is cranking, but will be on with the ignition on. #1 (instrument panel and warning lights) is on with the ignition, but is not subject to the load relief relay. That is assuming your layout is the same as mine, which it obviously is not, because I only have 7 fuses.

Sending e-mail with pictures... use at your own risk.

My #2 fuse that keeps blowing was a 4 amp (corect?)..and the only fuses that I can buy at either 3 or 5...Which should I use?

Can someone add fuse sizes to that list in the pic...Thanks.

DJ

Here's what I have out of the BMW shop manual:

1. Instrument cluster, indicator damping, brake light (without Integral ABS only) .......... 4 A
2. Parking light, tail light ................................... 4 A
3. Rider information display, power socket..... 15 A
4. Horn.......................................................... 7.5 A
5. Motronic, diagnosis plug............................ 10 A
6. Fuel pump.................................................. 10 A
7. Heated handlebar grips ............................... 4 A

Ok....went home at lunch to try and finger this out. Did everything according to the autoswitch instructions. Nothing....not power to lights at all. I tapped into the #2 fuse with a fuse tap, hooked the lights up, turned on the ignition, held the TSC switch and nothing. The little red led for the autoswitch came on briefly, then went out. I'm totally lost and have no idea whats going on. This sucks!!!

Ok..lemme start from the beginning. Bought some aux lights from the auto store, they did not come with a relay, so I bought one from Radioshack. Also got an autoswitch from cyclegadget. Tapped the orange wire from the autoswitch to the TSC wire. The power to the #2 fuse. And the ground to the battery. For the lights, I ran a ground from each light to a frame screw(where another BMW wire is grounded) I wired the white wire(goes to the switch that came with the lights, which I'm not using because thats what the autoswitch is for) to the relay(87). Ran a ground from the relay (85)to the - battery terminal. From the relay(30) I ran a red fused power wire to the + battery terminal. Attached the violet wire from the autoswitch to the relay. Nothing works....What am I doing wrong here??

Heres basically what I did:

Ground the autoswitch also.

It is possible by this time that the #2 fuse is blown. It is also possible that the Autoswitch is fried. Or the relay is fried.

Need to individually test each component for continuity before proceeding.

In your diagram the only thing I can see wrong is the grounding. Each device needs a ground. I never ground to the battery, always to the frame nearest the component.

Without being there, I just can't see the installation properly.

Yeah sorry....did that, just forgot to draw it in my diagram(its in the explanation above)

The #2 is a 4 amp fuse.

Parking light and taillight draw 25 watts, roughly 2 amps. Not enough left to power the autoswitch?

Is there another switched fuse that can carry the load?

johnnyjs1 wrote:Ok..lemme start from the beginning. Bought some aux lights from the auto store, they did not come with a relay, so I bought one from Radioshack. Also got an autoswitch from cyclegadget. Tapped the orange wire from the autoswitch to the TSC wire. The power to the #2 fuse. And the ground to the battery. For the lights, I ran a ground from each light to a frame screw(where another BMW wire is grounded) I wired the white wire(goes to the switch that came with the lights, which I'm not using because thats what the autoswitch is for) to the relay(87). Ran a ground from the relay (85)to the - battery terminal. From the relay(30) I ran a red fused power wire to the + battery terminal. Attached the violet wire from the autoswitch to the relay. Nothing works....What am I doing wrong here??

I would try doing it without the autoswitch first to see if the relay and lights work OK. The autoswitch introduces an additional complexity that will make it hard to diagnose. Check all fuses and wiggle/check all connections.

How did you connect your wires?