BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Hello all,

I recently upgraded from my 1st bike that I've been riding for ~7 years (Honda Sabre VF700S) to a 2002 R1150R. I looked over and rode several bikes, but I couldn't let this bike go. My wife and I also just moved from Atlanta to Blacksburg, VA and I've been riding the BMW every day up here and I have never enjoyed riding so much (the weather, roads, and lack of traffic may have something to do with it)! The suspension is great!

Here's a pic of the bike:

http://picasaweb.google.com/mjcraft/BMW ... 4113309746

I've been searching around this site (which is great, BTW) concerning some things about this bike, but some direct feedback would be welcome.

This bike definitely has the "surge" problem. It has ~13,000 miles and had the 12k service done @ BMW. Overall the bike runs well, but I think I would like to first try different spark plugs...the Autolites, maybe? And where is a good online store for these items?

Also, the bike has a "fly-screen" windshield which I will need to trade out for something larger come fall. Anybody have anything used?

The bike is dire need of a clean-up especially on the right side cyl. head area (may be discolored from a gas leak?). Any tricks for doing serious cleanup to the engine case?

Also, what is the best source for some used hard cases? They don't have to be BMW but those do seem pretty nice...and expensive.

How much valve noise is normal for these bikes at startup? This one clicks pretty well for a couple of seconds then settles out. I'm considering going to synthetic oil as I imagine this will help. Any thoughts?

The brakes are great...except one of the front rotors squeaks when lightly applying the brakes while coming to a complete stop. Any experience with this? Any adjustment or easy fix for this? If not I can put up with it or shell out $ for a new rotor...and I lean heavily towards putting up with it!

Finally, the bike has a large Givi case on the rear which is nice...except when my wife is riding (1st time last night) because the case is located fairly far forward and prevents her from using all of the rear seat making it very uncomfortable for me! Any experience with this other than just recommending riding solo!

Thanks,

Michael

First off, Welcome!!!
Cases......sometimes here in the Buy/Sell section. If not, ADVrider Fleamarket
Backrest......Pirates Lair, dont think they make em anymore, but you may be able to find a used
one or adjust the rack and slide it back if you can
Brakes.....Mine squeak a bit too, get used to it
Clicking.....I noticed mine has been doing it too just after my 12k service

Ride it, enjoy it, beat it, love it

Welcome, neighbor! If you see another black R around B'burg it just may be our esteemed member yjleesvrr who runs a business in the Corporate Research Center, but lives northern VA.

Plugs- Autolite 3923 (and 3923P "platinums") can often be found at Wal-Mart for less than five dollars. Beyond a spot-on valve adjustment and throttle body sync, a fuel injection modifier such as the Techlusion is a pricey ($250-300) way to address surging. I have the 1032 model and can still feel surging, but it is noticeably reduced.

Engine cleanup- Simple green and a brush gets rid of most things, bug & tar remover gets rid of almost all the rest.

Engine noise - the boxer oilhead has lots of rattles and knocks, thats part of the character. The sewing machine valve rattle is a good noise, that knocking after start up may be something like a "cam chain tensioner" of which their is an inexpensive upgrade for. A site search should turn up lots of good info.

The cases for this bike are the same as "GS" cases for the same model years. ADVRider and IBMWR both have active online fleamarkets where you might find the excellent BMW bags. Try your dealer as well, they may have some from trade-in bikes. You're closest to Hammersley in Lynchburg, and Carolina in Greensboro.

Again, welcome aboard. Check out the Group Rides section!!

DSKYZD

Welcome and congrats! The R is perfect for riding in the Appalachian Mountains. Make sure that you hook up with Yong (yjleesvrr/Blacksburg) and Brian (DSKYZD/Bluefield).
Here are some answers to your questions:
-Surge: you need to try first to synch your throttle bodies. You can make a water manometer as shown in lots of places on the web.
-Spark plugs: th Autolites are available at Walmart
-Rattling at startup is considered normal. If it comes back when the oil is hot, then it is worth changing the left cam chain tensioner with the one from the 1200. This is documented in many places too.
-Oil: with any used bike, I would recommend changing the oil ASAP. Make sure that you put in an XXW50. Synthetic won't help with the noise.
-Fuel stains: I'm sorry to report that there is no good way to remove fuel stains.

PS: yes DSKYZD, I need to learn to type faster...

11

I have a nice Parabellum screen (with all hardware)I would be willing to trade for a factory BMW flyscreen with mounting hardware. PM me if interested, I can do pics if you want.

Beemeridian wrote:Agreement with all of the above and:

Synthetic will only make it noisier. Also I have never heard of an oil related engine failure on these bikes so run whatever you want in it. Castrol 20W-50 is popular in the warm months.

Surging:
See that yellow box labeled CCP? Look in your fuse box and see if there is something in that hole-should be a yellow box but it might be a different color. (If there is nothing in there, that's good.) If there is something in there, remove it and do your best Cal Ripkin wind-up and hurl it at the nearest tree.
Now, see where the fuse where the white "five" is pointing? pull that fuse and wait a few minutes then put it back in. Turn the key on but don't start the bike, turn the throttle grip all the way open, then fully closed, then fully open again, then fully closed. Turn the key off.

Now go ride your bike. the surging will be gone.

No offense intended, but can I get a 2nd opinion on the above post? What does that yellow (relay?) that we are removing do?

More info would be great, thanks!

Trust me.....if there is any mis-information given by any member for a procedure, another member will correct it ASAP. Beemeridian knows what he's talking about.

Welcome aboard.

Used BMW bags can be had for around $400 for the pair, and are by far the best looking alternate.

The CCP has to do with emissions, and adjusts the fuel mixture. Different parts of the country/world have different configurations.

Check out the Group Rides section. There is a group of us meeting at Hungry Mother SP in Marion, VA around Aug 15.

Biff's R wrote:Welcome aboard.

Used BMW bags can be had for around $400 for the pair, and are by far the best looking alternate.

The CCP has to do with emissions, and adjusts the fuel mixture. Different parts of the country/world have different configurations.

Check out the Group Rides section. There is a group of us meeting at Hungry Mother SP in Marion, VA around Aug 15.

Thanks for the information! I am more of a researcher than a jump in and do it type person... depending on the task.

So when it came to my primary mode of transport, I am sure you understood my hesitation.

Thanks again.

Before you chuck the yellow plug (and I'm not saying don't, I'm just saying you need to do some other basic stuff, first):

* Replace the spark plugs with the Autolite 3923 or 3923P
* Check/adjust the valve clearances. Don't rely on a dealer for this, only if you do it will you ensure that it is done right. Very good/quick/easy instructions are here:

http://www.largiader.com/tech/ohvalves/

* Balance the throttle bodies. Even more important to do yourself than the valve adjust. A very careful throttle body balance is essential to the smooth running of the single-spark 1150's. You should be able to find information through a search as well as instructions to make your own differential water manometer which is about 10x as accurate as mercury and costs very little.

I doubt it will still be surging after you complete the above tasks. And, those tasks should be done anyway.

Welcome.

Nice KHaynes Wheelcap!

Yes, the CCP was originally designed to make the California legislature happy, but ended up making many owners unhappy. After several Sunday morning consultation's, a group of wise R owners reverted to scripture.
"If thy Cat Code Plug offend thee, pluck it out."


My bike (2004) had it's CCP pulled by the dealer when they assembled it, not sure if they participated in the tree toss.

FloridaBeakster wrote: * Check/adjust the valve clearances. Don't rely on a dealer for this, only if you do it will you ensure that it is done right. Very good/quick/easy instructions are here:

http://www.largiader.com/tech/ohvalves/

Not to hijack this thread, but it's a bit of a newbie question anyway: I'm about to do my first valve check. Since it's part of the 18K service, the oil has to get changed. Can I leave the oil out for the valve check, to minimize the amount of oil that comes out of the heads (I understand that there isn't much)? Or have I just asked the dumbest question on the planet?

You can leave the oil out for the valve adjustment, but you need to have a cold engine to do it. So you would have to leave it out over night. My guess is that you will have the same amount of oil drip out. It isn't much that drips out anyhow.

Biff's R wrote:You can leave the oil out for the valve adjustment, but you need to have a cold engine to do it. So you would have to leave it out over night. My guess is that you will have the same amount of oil drip out. It isn't much that drips out anyhow.

I don't know for sure, but I think the oil that comes out is sitting in the cover and doesn't get drained during an oil change. It's not a bad idea to do it with the oil change since the old trapped oil won't get mixed with the new, but I think you'll get the same amount of oil leaking out when you take the valve cover off.

As to the rear box, several folks here recommended the Hepco and Becker, 42 L box with the mounting rack (which replaces the plastic part on the BMW rack perfectly), with the foam pad as part of the backrest. I am told by passengers that this is very comfortable, and it matches the BMW side cases perfectly. The instructions are in German, but everything is extremely obvious, and the mounting rack has a sticker on it which proudly proclaims (Made in Germany)....in English. Gotta love the Teutonic touch!

Welcome to the group, I'm sure you will like it here; it is a hugely valuable resource for the BMW owner.

Welcome. I am glad you have asked the questions you did, I've been wanting to but have not had the time to post the questions. I just purchased my 1150 last month from a gentleman in Pearisburg it had 4400 hundred miles and I love it. I live in Roanoke and love mine, I also had a Honda Sabre prior to this bike, 1100 with orange flames. I am heading to Hammersley in the morining to get my oil changed just to be on the safe side. I also just purchased a back rest for mine but they are expensive, around $300+. Hammersley will also sell you the bags new along with the mounting brackets, locks, decals, etc for about $700.00.

To the group, this is also my first BMW, is the transmission normally clunky when shifting from nuetral to 1st gear?

bdrussell wrote: To the group, this is also my first BMW, is the transmission normally clunky when shifting from nuetral to 1st gear?

Welcome.

Yes it is. And look around for used cases, you can save $300+.

I just tried removing the ccp and had no change. I just recently noticed the surging and it appears to be getting worse. My ride only has 4900 miles. Should I check the valves, throttle body, etc. I am going to the dealer in the morning to get the oil changed, anything I should have them check while it is there. Also, is it normal to have some leaking around the upper fork seals when it is hot?

Thanks for all the help ...

You can easily change the oil yourself. Just get a filter, and new crush washers at the dealer. Oil at autozone, or wherever. Change it with the engine hot, and it will drain easier.