BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

I bought a pair of GS hand guards to put on my R1150R and I could not get the screw out to remove the bar weights. Is it a hex head or a torx? My torx 30 feels like it will strip it but the allen head doesn't feel much better. Is there a trick to remove the weights? There is nothing in my Clymer or Haynes. What is the torque to put them on if I am able to get them off? Do I need to buy an impact wrench?

On my bike it is definitely a hex head bolt. IIRC it is 5 mm, possibly 6 mm.

If this is the first time, it might be stuck with loctite. I have hex head sockets for my socket wrench. If you have something like that, with a long enough handle, it should be more than enough torque to get the bolts out.

11

Tried a torx 30, then a standard hex and finally a 5mm hex. Used your techique of a quarter turn and back until it broke loose. Thanks for your help, I was not aware the hex heads came in standard and metric.

11

+1

after making the switch from harleys to bmw, i found i was severly lacking in the metric tool department. a quick trip to lowes for a set of kobalt metric hex sockets, and a set of kobalt hex wrenches with the rounded ends, and i am well equipped for under $50 total.
mike

p.s. those rounded end hex wrenches are a MUST HAVE, imo, for bmw windshield installation

What a coincidence . . . . I put my handguards on today, for like . . . . . the 4th winter, and it only took 11 minutes. I did it outside in the Sun. The stock black bar end weights do have a 5mm Allen head bolt. The ThrottleMeisters I took off have their own longer bolt and it has a 6mm Allen head bolt. The handleebar clamp bolts require a T-30 Torx.

Right after the install I went for a ride into town to drop off my water bill and gas up. It was noticeably warmer, even though it was a Sunny 58F (14.4C) outside.
BTW, The Chevron (regular grade) gas was $2.119/Gallon. Pump said "contains 10% Ethanol".

Back on topic: Handguards=Good!!

.

The last two rides have reminded me it is indeed time to reinstall the handguards. Brrr!

And I have never used a torque wrench on them yet!

Re tools: I recently learned the joys of a breaker bar and a t-45 torx racket for removal of the brake calipers! Bought my own and the right tool certainly makes life easier! Came in handy removing the rear lug nuts too!

Wow! If you need a breaker bar to remove the calipers . . . . . you may need a torque wrench!!
The caliper bolts are 30Nm or 22.1 Ft-Lbs. That's a one foot long wrench with a 22 Lb pull on the end or a 6" long wrench with 44 Lb wrench end pull.

Granted, REALLY tight IS better than not tight enough -but- the threads could be permanently damaged.

.

Rob - I should add, both the calipers and wheel lug nuts were last installed by the dealer, not me during my FD repair. The problem was also the stock little torx wrench kept slipping on me, threatening to round out the head. I probably could have done it with a torx head and regular racket.

I did break out my seldom-used torque wrench for reinstallation though.

When I installed my hand guards in early 03 I never removed them. Keeps my hands warmer in the winter (of course) but tends to keep rain, bugs and other crap away from my hands the rest of the year.

Plus the improved aerodynamics, optimized airflow and reduced wind drag gives me an additional 13.268 mpg. (using regular octane of course)

Wayne

improved aerodynamics, optimized airflow and reduced wind drag gives me an additional 13.268 mpg

ding, ding, ding . . . The BS meter goes off!

wncbmw wrote:

improved aerodynamics, optimized airflow and reduced wind drag gives me an additional 13.268 mpg

ding, ding, ding . . . The BS meter goes off!

Yeah, what he said. I can't get much more than an extra 10 mpg no matter how hard I try, so 13.268 seems bogus. Nice windbreaker tho'.