BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Hi everyone,
I am hoping to aquire a R1150R this weekend, but will have to haul it home from about a 5 hour distance... and this might not be the best weekend to ride.

Anyone fit a R1150R inside a Cargo Van - like the ones Enterprise rents?

Thanks!

I helped someone transport an RT in a van. Just had to take off the windshield and top case. As always, take measurements first, and make sure you can strap it down securely.

DO NOT try to transport it on the centerstand for 5 hours, as it is not made to hold up the bike in a moving vehicle. Don't use the handlbars as tie-down points; use the telelever.

Good luck.

It's do-able, I loaded my RR in the back of a smallish Ryder Box van.

One of the best things I can suggest is to get the best tie-downs you can afford. Length and capacity are the most important criteria for selecting tie-downs. I'd recommend the ratcheting type as apposed to the friction-type tie-downs (personal preference though, YMMV). Something else I'd recommend is using tie-down extensions (something like this: http://www.bikebandit.com/product/5615), they'll help save the finish from scratches caused by the hooks.

If you're using heavy-duty tie-down straps, get them long and use as much length as you can. This allows them to act a little like a shock-absorber instead of being static (as a chain might be) and causing damage to the parts it's attached to.


As ASQTec stated, DO NOT use the Centerstand to transport your bike!!! Use nothing more than the bikes suspension to support its weight during transport. Also, try and select a truck that has tie-down points around the perimeter of the enclosure, above knee-height. This makes securing it AND letting it use it's suspension easier than using floor mounted tie-downs.

And finally, good luck with the move.
JC

That last advice, while probably well meant, is as wrong as can be.

1) Four tie downs. Two front from as high as possible (handlebars on an 1150R are fine - aim for the center area near the risers) to ground mounts slightly forward and slightly outboard (12 inches or so - more is okay, less is dicey) of the front axle. Two rear from the subframe (rear passenger peg brackets work well) to ground mounted tie downs slightly forward of the point to which they are attached to the bike. Straight down is okay at the rear. A chock (purpose made; two boards or two bricks wedged) is helpful to keep the front wheel from moving sideways or forward once lashed properly. You benefit from the fewest number of straps but extension straps can be used as long as you avoid pinching or rubbing any hoses, lines, or wires around the handlebar and head stock area. Keep in mind, if the front wheel cannot move, the bike cannot fall over.

2) Ratchets work better up front to completely isolate the movement of the front suspension. Since BMW use a telelever, the forks can take the internal pressure without damage to the seals, as can the shock. Telelever is an okay substitute but not ideal. If over 24 hours, loosen and let sit while parked, then re-compress when restarting.

3) Tension style tie downs work best at the rear. Lay across the seat to compress the shock, then pull tight. You need to prevent the host vehicle's bounce over rough surfaces from causing the rear wheel to hop sideways. Knee highs don't prevent that.

4) You want the bike to move as one unit with the floor/bed/host vehicle. No shock absorbing motion is desired. Keep your tires at spec pressure. No side stand, no center stand.

5) Load, check, tension, re-check, re-tension. Grab the front handlebar and vigorously shake the bike. The whole truck should move while the suspension of the bike shows no independent movement. Drive the first 20-50 miles and recheck again. Lastly, avoid a full tank of gas - it will slosh into the overflow or expand inside the truck as temperatures change. If the host vehicle is enclosed, no smoking.

6) If all you have is a panel van or rental box and it has no floor tie downs your best approach is to lash the bike securely to one wall achieving the same, no bounce, no hop, no slide result.

Moved my in a van rented from enterprise. Worked well but I I have a small screen and that just barely fit under the door frame (once in there was 3 inches of clearance to the top of the van. The van did not have tiedown points so I attached them to the aluminum frame as low as possible. I used a mixture of tension and ratcheting straps. The main pressure points were the ratchets and the tensioners were the supporting points. I brought some rags for padding the straps, but I am not sure what good they may have done. Go easy on the gas and brake and it will be a snap.

Remember to bring something to use as a ramp. It's damn near impossible to lift 550 pounds of bike.

Enjoy

All good advice so far. I would add to make sure you have a good ramp. I used a dirt bike ramp ( a narrow ramp) with side rails to load my Ducati SS on a truck bed recently, and it was tenuous. I wouldn't want to duplicate the experience with an 1150r.

The ramps that are convex in profile are best, this way the bike goes into the truck/van almost level rather than over the ramp/bed angle.

Good luck, enjoy your new ride

When I sold my 850R, it was picked up with a cargo van. Only surprise for me was how difficult it was to push it up the ramp (dirt bike steel channel). Even with 4 guys, it was a little too much as the rear tire just barely fit in the ramp. We ended up using the motor to get it up and in. One guy worked the throttle, while I worked the clutch. The other 2 guys were more moral support at that point simply making sure the bike didn't fall over. I can only assume the unloading was a bit easier.

Fortunately because it was a cargo van there were plenty of places to attach the hook ends of the tie-downs. Bike didn't have a windshield, but IIRC, it would have been a very tight fit if it had.

Don't pay any attention to all the above advice.................ride it the 5 hours home!.............builds character!

towerworker wrote:Don't pay any attention to all the above advice.................ride it the 5 hours home!.............builds character!

what he said

One guy worked the throttle, while I worked the clutch.

This scenario really scares me. Don't do that. The rest is all sounds like good advice, but for a 5 hour ride you could probably just roll it up and lay it down for a while. Its way too heavy to flop around too much.

I feel SO experienced in this since my summer long journey, which involved loading/unloading and trailering almost every day for 11 weeks and 6000 miles. I'd share my knowledge but the OP said "this weekend" and that was last weekend. So he doesn't need my advice now. Strange, he never posted again. Hope he took someone's advice!!!!!

Boxer wrote:

One guy worked the throttle, while I worked the clutch.

This scenario really scares me. Don't do that. The rest is all sounds like good advice, but for a 5 hour ride you could probably just roll it up and lay it down for a while. Its way too heavy to flop around too much.

It worked out just fine.